2002 CHRYSLER CARAVAN lock

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH.1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture too concentrated or
too diluted.2. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
3. Incorrect cooling system
pressure cap.3. Install correct pressure cap.
HOSE(S) COLLAPSE AS ENGINE
COOLS DOWN.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
recovery system.1. (a) Pressure cap relief valve
stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
Replace as necessary.
(b) Hose between the radiator and
overflow container is plugged or
pinched. Clean and repair as
necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow
container is plugged. Clean vent
and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow container is
internally blocked. Clean and repair
as necessary.
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED).1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser is
restricted, obstructed, or dirty
(insects, leaves, etc.).1. Remove restriction and/or clean
as necessary.
2. Electrical radiator fan not
operating when A/C is operated.2. For test procedure (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
3. Engine is overheating (heat may
be transferred from radiator to A/C
condenser). High underhood
temperatures due to engine
overheating may also transfer heat
to A/C components.3. Correct overheating condition.
4. All models are equipped with air
seals at the radiator and/or A/C
condenser. If these seals are
missing or damaged, not enough
air flow will be pulled through the
radiator and A/C condenser.4. Check for missing or damaged air
seals and repair as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.1. Check for a Diagnostic trouble
code (DTC).1. For procedures, (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
2. Coolant level low. 2. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) Repair
as necessary.
7 - 16 ENGINERS
ENGINE (Continued)
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ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
The engine block heater is available as an optional
accessory on all models. The heater is operated by
ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a
power cord located behind the radiator grille. This
provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block,
with the heating element immersed in coolant.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER TESTING
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Disconnect the power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove the
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean block core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Install power cord plug to heater.
(5) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor threads
into the top of the thermostat housing (Fig. 3). New
sensors have sealant applied to the threads.
REMOVAL
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Drain the cooling system below thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Disconnect coolant temperature sensor electri-
cal connector.
(3) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 3).
Tighten sensor to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(2) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Fig. 3 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - 2.4L
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
RSENGINE7-21
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(6) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
DESCRIPTION
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
mounted in a housing on the coolant outlet of the
engine (Fig. 8) or (Fig. 10).
OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostat is a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by
preventing leakage through it and to guarantee a
minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to
93ÉC (192 to 199ÉF). The thermostat also will auto-
matically reach wide open so it will not restrict flow
to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in
hot weather to around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this
temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by
the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the
thermostat.
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolantreaches a predetermined temperature, the wax
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled cham-
ber (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermo-
stat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermo-
stat with a screwdriver.
Thermostat diagnostics is included in powertrain
control module's (PCM) programing for on-board
diagnosis. The malfunction indicator light (MIL) will
illuminate and a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will
be set when an ªopen too soonº condition occurs. Do
not change a thermostat for lack of heater perfor-
mance or temperature gauge position, unless a DTC
is present. For other probable causes, (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term
mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage
vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 2.4L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system below the thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose from the coolant
outlet housing (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove coolant outlet housing bolts and hous-
ing (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove thermostat. Discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on
the coolant outlet connector surface. Position thermo-
stat with air bleed at the 12 o'clock position in ther-
mostat housing (Fig. 8).
(2) Position the coolant outlet connector and gas-
ket over the thermostat, making sure thermostat is
seated in the thermostat housing.
(3) Position outlet connector to thermostat housing
and install bolts (Fig. 8). Tighten bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 6 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
1 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - CONNECTOR - ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR
3 - FITTING - HEATER SUPPLY
RSENGINE7-23
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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(3) Position a new gasket over the thermostat and
connector making sure thermostat is in proper posi-
tion and in the recess provided.
(4) Install thermostat and connector assembly to
the intake manifold (Fig. 10). Tighten bolts to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the radiator upper hose to coolant outlet
connector (Fig. 9).
(6) Refill the cooling system to the proper level.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
RADIATOR
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a cross-flow type (horizontal tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength
along with sufficient heat transfer capabilities to
keep the engine satisfactorily cooled. The radiator
has plastic side tanks and aluminum cooling tubes.
OPERATION
The radiator functions as a heat exchanger, using
air flow across the exterior of the radiator tubes. This
heat is then transferred from the coolant and into
the passing air.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove radiator upper crossmember support.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE OPENING
REINFORCEMENT - REMOVAL)
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(3) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove the radiator fans. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
(5) Disconnect coolant reserve/recovery hose.
Fig. 10 THERMOSTAT - 3.3/3.8L ENGINE
1 - COOLANT OUTLET CONNECTOR
2 - BOLT
3 - THERMOSTAT
4 - GASKET
Fig. 11 Connector Staking Material Removal
1-STAKE
2 - OUTLET CONNECTOR
Fig. 12 Thermostat Position In Outlet Connector
1 - LOCATING NOTCH
2 - THERMOSTAT
3 - COOLANT OUTLET CONNECTOR
RSENGINE7-25
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Use of pliers on draincock is not recom-
mended. Damage may occur to radiator or drain-
cock.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove draincock dur-
ing a routine coolant drain.
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Open the draincock by turning it counterclock-
wise until it stops.
(3) Turn the draincock back (clockwise) 1/8 turn.
(4) Pull the draincock (Fig. 16) from the radiator
tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align draincock stem to radiator tank opening.
(2) Push draincock into the radiator tank opening.
(3) Tighten the draincock by turning clockwise
until it stops.
(4) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system pressure cap is located on the
radiator. The cap construction includes; stainless
steel swivel top, rubber seals, and retainer, main
spring, and a spring loaded valve (Fig. 17).
OPERATION
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases excessive pressure; maintaining a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than
atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the
coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radia-
tor cooling capacity.
There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap.
This valve also opens when coolant is cooling and
contracting, allowing the coolant to return to cooling
system from coolant reserve system tank by vacuum
through a connecting hose.If valve is stuck shut,
or the coolant recovery hose is pinched, the
radiator hoses will be collapsed on cool down.
Clean the vent valve (Fig. 17) and inspect cool-
ant recovery hose routing, to ensure proper
sealing when boiling point is reached.
The gasket in the cap seals the filler neck, so that
vacuum can be maintained, allowing coolant to be
drawn back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
If the gasket is dirty or damaged, a vacuum
may not be achieved, resulting is loss of coolant
and eventual overheating due to low coolant
level in radiator and engine.
Fig. 16 Draincock
1 - RADIATOR TANK
2 - DRAINCOCK
Fig. 17 Cooling System Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - RADIATOR
8 - FILLER NECK
RSENGINE7-27
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP TESTING
Dip the pressure cap in water. Clean any deposits
off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
the Pressure Cap Test Adaptor that is included with
the Cooling System Tester 7700 (Fig. 18). Working
the plunger, bring the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the pressure cap.
CAUTION: The Cooling System Tester Tool is very
sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cool-
ing system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn tool
upside down and recheck pressure cap to confirm
that cap is bad.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned
on Cooling System Tester (Fig. 18), but will not hold
pressure or vacuum when positioned on the filler
neck. Inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for
irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing
properly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
TO FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 19). Attach the
Radiator Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and
pump air into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gas-ket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold
pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT OPEN
HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust coolant freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new coolant.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN
PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE COUNTERCLOCK-
WISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE)
BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST
STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
Fig. 18 Testing Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 19 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - RADIATOR
8 - FILLER NECK
7 - 28 ENGINERS
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)
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WATER PUMP - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a cast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 23). The cylin-
der block to water pump seal is provided by a rubber
O-ring. The water pump is driven by the engine tim-
ing belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Remove the right inner splash shield.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(5) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Support engine from the bottom and remove
right engine mount. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT - REMOVAL).(7) Remove right engine mount bracket (Fig. 24).
(8) Remove the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- REMOVAL).
(9) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(10) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool
C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt.
Remove both cam sprockets.
(11) Remove the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COV-
ER(S) - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator and bracket (Fig. 24).
(13) Remove water pump to engine attaching
screws (Fig. 25).
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
wet coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring locating groove (Fig. 26).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in
water pump groove before tightening screws. An
improperly located O-ring may be damaged and
cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 25). Pressurize
cooling system to 103.4 Kpa (15 psi) with pressure
tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring
for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(5) Install camshaft sprockets and torque bolts to
101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) while holding camshaft sprocket
with Special tool C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1.
(6) Install timing belt idler pulley and torque
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 23 Water Pump
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
7 - 32 ENGINERS
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Fig. 24 Generator Bracket
1 - BRACKET - ENGINE MOUNT 5 - BOLT
2 - BOLT 6 - TENSIONER - DRIVE BELT
3 - GENERATOR 7 - BOLT
4 - BOLT 8 - BOLT
Fig. 25 Water Pump - 2.4L
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 26 Water Pump Body
1 - IMPELLER
2 - WATER PUMP BODY
3 - O-RING LOCATING GROOVE
RSENGINE7-33
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)
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