2002 CHEVROLET EXPRESS brake

4-41 Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb
if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:

start your engine,

shift into a gear, and

release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you find them quickly. If you're trailering,
it's a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.

4-42 Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package is a
seven
-wire harness assembly. The four-wire portion of
the harness assembly is stored under the vehicle, along
the driver's side rear corner of the frame rail. The
three
-wire portion of the harness assembly is stored
in a frame pocket under the rear of the vehicle, on the
driver's side. The heavy
-duty trailer wiring harness
has a 30
-amp feed wire. Both harnesses come without
connectors and should be wired by a qualified electrical
technician. The technician can use the following color
code chart when connecting the wiring harness to
your trailer.Four
-Wire Harness

Light Green: Back
-up lamps

Brown: Parking lamps

Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
Three
-Wire Harness

Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
(seven
-wire harness only)

Orange: Trailer accessory (seven
-wire harness only)

White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.

5-4
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn't a 12-volt system with a
negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with
two batteries (or more) you should know before you
begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not
be able to get enough power from a single battery in
another vehicle to start your diesel engine.
If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the
battery that's closer to the starter
-- this will reduce
electrical resistance.2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in
the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission
in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
your warranty.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the
radio and all lamps that aren't needed. This will
avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it
could save your radio!

5-20
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal
and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch
partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-21
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won't move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.

5-32
8. Put the wheel nuts back
on with the rounded end
of the nuts toward the
wheel. Tighten each
wheel nut by hand until
the wheel is held against
the hub.
9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
10. Tighten the nuts
firmly in a crisscross
sequence as shown.
Turn the wheel
wrench clockwise.
CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose
and even come off. This could lead to an accident.
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have
to replace them, be sure to get new GM original
equipment wheel nuts.
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have
the nuts tightened with a torque wrench
to 140 lb
-ft (190 N´m).
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to
brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specification.

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
6
-5 Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-11 Noise Control System
6
-12 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
6
-17 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines)
6
-19 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-23 Rear Axle
6
-23 Engine Coolant
6
-27 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-27 Power Steering Fluid
6
-28 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-29 Brakes6
-33 Battery
6
-34 Bulb Replacement
6
-41 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-42 Tires
6
-52 Appearance Care
6
-52 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-56 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-57 Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped)
6
-58 Cleaning Tires
6
-58 Sheet Metal Damage
6
-58 Finish Damage
6
-60 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-61 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-62 Electrical System
6
-68 Replacement Bulbs
6
-69 Capacities and Specifications
6
-72 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-8
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
engine fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil,
coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other
fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could
be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things
that will burn onto a hot engine.
Hood Release
To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull this handle inside
the vehicle. It is located
in front of the driver's
side door frame near
the floor.