Page 184 of 331

5-12 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no
steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high
-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See ªDriving on Gradesº in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it's on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you're in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving
-- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE () for
automatic transmissions, FIFTH (5) gear for manual
transmissions.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you're parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools
down. Also, see ªOverheated Engine Protection
Operating Modeº listed previously in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Page 193 of 331

5-21
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place and turn on your
hazard warning flashers. The next part tells you what
to do.
Page 195 of 331

5-23
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº can
help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may
need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out,
see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Page 206 of 331

6-11
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see ªEngine Oil
(Diesel Engine)º in the Diesel Engine Supplement.
Checking Engine Oil
It's a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must
be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick
has a yellow ring handle
and is located in the
engine compartment on
the passenger's side of
the vehicle. See ªEngine
Compartment Overviewº
in the Index for more
information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil dipstick
might not show the actual level.Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you'll need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use.
For engine oil crankcase capacity, see ªCapacities and
Specificationsº in the Index.
Page 209 of 331

6-14 Engine Oil Additives
Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good
performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures are
below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop
-and-go traffic).
You frequently tow a trailer.
The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months
-- whichever
occurs first.If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months
-- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil
to break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long.
Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good
hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or
rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer's
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from
the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting
it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or
into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by
taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a
problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your
dealer, a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
Page 214 of 331

6-19
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:The red transmission dipstick handle is located at the
rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger's side.
See ªEngine Compartment Overviewº in the Index for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross
-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross
-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Page 218 of 331

6-23
Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
See ªScheduled Maintenance Servicesº in the Index.
Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required
when the vehicle is driven under the following conditions:
Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer
towing, and:
Operation above 45 mph (70 km/h) for extended
periods of time
Vehicles used in any of these conditions require the
rear axle lubricant be changed every 30,000 miles
(50 000 km). Fluid capacity is 4.12 quarts (3.9 L).
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you'll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See ªRecommended Fluids
and Lubricantsº in the Index.
Page 234 of 331
6-39
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least
twice a year for wear and cracking. See ªWiper Blade
Checkº in the Index for more information.
Replacement blades come in different types and are
removed in different ways. For proper type and length,
see ªNormal Maintenance Replacement Partsº in the
Index. Here's how to remove the Shephard's Hook type.
To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly,
do the following:
1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is
facing away from the windshield.
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly
toward the driver's side of the vehicle.
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.