Page 193 of 331

5-21
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place and turn on your
hazard warning flashers. The next part tells you what
to do.
Page 195 of 331

5-23
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº can
help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may
need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out,
see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Page 196 of 331

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
6
-5 Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-7 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-10 Noise Control System
6
-11 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
6
-15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines)
6
-17 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-20 Manual Transmission Fluid
6
-22 Hydraulic Clutch
6
-23 Rear Axle
6
-24 Engine Coolant
6
-27 Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)
6
-28 Power Steering Fluid6
-29 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-30 Brakes
6
-34 Battery
6
-35 Bulb Replacement
6
-39 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-40 Tires
6
-50 Appearance Care
6
-51 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-54 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-58 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-59 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-60 Electrical System
6
-66 Replacement Bulbs
6
-66 Capacities and Specifications
6
-68 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Page 204 of 331
6-9 Engine Compartment Overview
When you open the hood you will see the following:
A. Battery
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
D. Coolant Recovery Tank
E. Radiator Pressure CapF. Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
(If Equipped)
H. Engine Oil Fill
I. Engine Cooling FanJ. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir
L. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir
M. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
N. Underhood Fuse/Block
Page 223 of 331

6-28
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid
reservoir cap is located
at the front of the engine
compartment on the
driver's side of the vehicle.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering
fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and
repaired. See ªEngine Compartment Overviewº in the
Index for reservoir location.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down,
wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then
unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.
Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove
the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark.
If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the
level up to the mark.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see ªRecommended
Fluids and Lubricantsº in the Index. Always use the proper
fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and
damage hoses and seals.
Page 258 of 331
6-63
Fuse/Circuit
BreakerUsage
9 License Lamp, Parking Lamps,
Taillamps, Roof Marker
Lamps, Front Sidemarkers,
Door Switch Illumination,
Headlamp Switch Illumination
10 Not Used
11 Wiper Motor, Washer Pump
12 A/C, A/C Blower,
High Blower Relay
13 Power Amp, Cigarette Lighter,
Door Lock Relay
14 Cluster, Comfort Controls,
Instrument Switches, Radio
Illumination, Chime Module
15 DRL Relay
16 Front and Rear Turn Signals,
Back
-Up LampsFuse/Circuit
BreakerUsage
17 Radio (Ignition)
18 4WAL/VCM, Antilock Braking
System, Cruise Control
19 Radio (Battery)
20 PRNDL, Automatic Transmission,
Speedometer, Check Gages
Warning Light
21 Security/Steering
22 Not Used
23 Not Used
24 TP2 Relay (Gasoline Engine)
A Power Door Lock, Keyless
Entry Module
B Power Windows
Page 271 of 331

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
7-8
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of
this vehicle.
See ªOwner Checks and Servicesº and ªPeriodic
Maintenance Inspectionsº following.Footnotes
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle's useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings,
steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, parking
brake cable guides, rear driveline center splines and
brake pedal springs. Ball joints and kingpin bushings
should not be lubricated unless their temperature is
10F (
-12C) or higher, or they could be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See ªBrake System Inspectionº under
ªPeriodic Maintenance Inspectionsº in Part C of
this schedule.
Page 293 of 331

Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
7-30
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of
this vehicle.
See ªOwner Checks and Servicesº and ªPeriodic
Maintenance Inspectionsº following.Footnotes
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle's useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings,
steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, parking
brake cable guides, rear driveline center splines and
brake pedal springs. Ball joints and kingpin bushings
should not be lubricated unless their temperature is
10F (
-12C) or higher, or they could be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See ªBrake System Inspectionº under
ªPeriodic Maintenance Inspectionsº in Part C of
this schedule.