2001 SAAB 9-3 oil

206 Car careChanging bulbs Headlight 1 Unscrew the cover from the back of the light units.
2 Unplug the connector.
3 Unhook the spring clip by pushing it forward and then to the side.
4 Remove the bulb.
5 Insert the new bulb, without touching the glass with your fingers.
Line it up so that the three lugs fit into the corresponding slots in
the reflector and secure it with the spring clip.IMPORTANT! When changing bulbs, use the same type of bulb,
(e.g. Long-life).
Headlight aiming, see page 233.
Parking lights The parking-light bulb is fitted in the same light unit as the headlight
bulb.
1 Remove the bulb holder from the lamp unit.
2 Then take the bulb out of the holder.
WARNING
Before changing a bulb in the engine bay, switch off the engine
to avoid the danger of fingers and hands being injured by
moving parts.
The radiator fan can cut in even when the engine is switched off. NOTESwitch off the ignition before changing a bulb, to avoid possible
short-circuiting. NOTEDo not fit bulbs with a rating above 60/55W, since the headlight
reflector and the wiring of the car are not designed for a higher
wattage.
Do not touch the glass of the bulbs with your fingers. The oil on
your skin can shorten the life of the bulb.
IB903
1 Headlight bulb
2 Parking-light bulb
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224 Car care
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need bal-
ancing. Flat spots of this type disappear
once the tires get hot again, usually after
10–15 miles (20–25 km) of driving at cruis-
ing speed.
Safety beltsA check should be made periodically to
ensure that the safety belts are working
properly.
 Hold the diagonal strap and pull it sharply.
The safety belt should lock and it should
not be possible to withdraw it further.
A sharp tug on the belt should cause the
inertia reel to lock. Check the floor anchor-
age points for corrosion damage. If a belt is
worn or has any fraying edges, it should be
replaced.
Safety belts must not come into contact with
substances such as polishes, oil or chemi-
cals. If the belts get dirty, wash them with
warm water and a detergent or have them
replaced.
WARNING
Safety belts and belt pretensioners that
were in use in a serious collision must be
replaced even if they are not visibly
damaged.
No attempt must be made to repair, or
modify the function of, safety belts.
IB923
Removing the wheel cover
IB925
Tightening sequence, wheel bolts
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225 Car care
Upholstery and trimTo remove fluff or hairs from the seat uphol-
stery or headlining, use a moist, lint-free
cloth or a special lint remover (brush or
roller). Remove any dirty marks using a
cloth moistened with lukewarm soapy
water.
When using a stain remover, always work
from the outside towards the center to avoid
leaving a ring. If a soiled ring or spot should
remain, it can usually be removed using
lukewarm soapy water or water alone.
Wet patches left by spilled soft drinks or thin
oil must be wiped off immediately using an
absorbent material, such as paper toweling,
and treated with stain remover.
Isopropyl alcohol is recommended for
removing grease or oil stains, and a
semi-stiff brush may also be used.
Cleaning and caring for leather
upholsteryThe principal reason for treating leather
upholstery is to maintain its elegant appear-
ance and to provide it with a protective film.
Discoloration caused by dust and wear
mainly affects the lighter shades, although
this is not detrimental to the leather –
indeed, the patina resulting from use is often
considered desirable in leather. But if the
leather is allowed to become too grubby, it
can start to look shabby.
It is a good idea to clean and recondition the
leather twice a year – in conjunction with a
general spring-cleaning of the car – after the
winter and in the autumn, for instance. In
hot, dry climates, the leather will need to be
treated more frequently.
Moisten a soft cloth in a mild soap solution.
Carefully apply this damp (not wet) cloth to
the leather, working in light, circular move-
ments until the leather is clean. Repeat the
procedure using clean water and then leave
the leather to dry thoroughly. Finally, treat
the leather with a conditioner.Apply the leather conditioner using a soft
cloth and the same circular movements as
described above. After it has dried, polish
the leather with a soft, dry cloth. Follow the
directions given above. Do not use hot
water, unknown abrasive polishes, sol-
vents, sprays or soaps that might scratch
the leather. Look after the leather as
described and it will stay clean and attrac-
tive for many years.
Textile carpetingVacuum clean the carpeting regularly. Car-
pets can also be cleaned using a brush, or
carpet shampoo applied with a sponge. Do
not use vacuum cleaners outdoors unless
they are properly grounded.
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227 Car care
Waxing and polishingDo not wax a new car during the first three
or four months. In fact, there is no need to
polish the car before the paintwork has
started to go dull through oxidation. Other
than in exceptional cases, do not use abra-
sive polishes containing a cutting agent on
a new car. Always wash the car thoroughly
before waxing or polishing.
Touching up the paintDamaged paintwork should be treated as
soon as it is discovered: the longer it is left,
the greater the risk of corrosion. The
anti-perforation warranty does not cover
corrosion resulting from untreated defects.
Paintwork damage sustained in a collision is
usually extensive and can only be properly
restored by professionals.
However, you can repair small scratches
and stone-chip damage yourself. The nec-
essary tools and materials, such as primer,
touch-up paint and brushes, are available
from your Saab dealer.
In the case of minor flaws in the paintwork,
where the metal has not been exposed and
an undamaged layer of paint remains,
touch-up paint can usually be applied
directly, after any dirt has been scraped
away using a pointed knife.
If corrosion has already set in, e.g. as a
result of stone-chip damage, use a pointed
knife to scrape off all surface rust. If possi-
ble, the damaged area should be taken
back to the bare metal. The metal should
then be primed with two thin coats of primer
applied by brush.
After the primer has dried, apply several thin
layers of topcoat enamel until the surface of
the repaired area is flush with the surround-
ing paintwork.
Stir both primer and touch-up enamel thor-
oughly before use and allow each coat to
dry before applying the next.
NOTE Try your brakes on leaving a car wash.
Wet brake discs reduce the braking
effect.
 Turn off the radio before entering an
automatic car wash so the power
antenna mast does not get damaged.
 Clean the rod of the electrically pow-
ered antenna about once a month with
a clean, dry rag.
IMPORTANT! Use no oil, nor any sili-
cone-based cleaning product.
 Fixed antennas must be removed
when going through an automatic car
wash.
Saab 9-3 Viggen, Coupé and
5-door: If you wash the car in an auto-
matic car wash, you must first remove
the roof-mounted antenna, otherwise
it will be damaged.
 On Covertible models with OnStar,
fold down the cellular antenna
mounted on the windshield before
entering a car wash to avoid damage
to the antenna or convertible top.
IB1271
Removing the roof-mounted antenna,
Saab 9-3 Viggen Coupé and 5-door
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228 Car careTwo-coat enamelAs the name implies, two-coat enamel is
applied in two operations. The first coat, the
base color, contains the pigment, metal
flakes and binder. The second coat consists
of a clear enamel, which provides the final
gloss for the paintwork and protects the
base from moisture and environmental con-
taminants.
Touch-up stone-chip damage as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean the damaged area.
2 Then apply the primer, base color, and
finally, the enamel. To achieve the best
finish, apply two or three coats of primer.
Anti-corrosion
treatmentThe entire car is corrosion-protected at the
factory in different stages by an electrolytic
immersion coating and a polyester-based
protective coating to protect against corro-
sion caused by stones flung up by the
wheels. A thin penetrating anti-rust oil is
also applied in cavities and body members.
In addition to conventional anti-corrosion
treatment like painting, underbody treat-
ment and cavity treatment, most of the body
panel surfaces are galvanized. These
include the hood, the doors and the under-
body.
The anti-corrosion treatment on the under-
side of the car and inside the wheel arches
is particularly exposed to constant wear and
possible damage, the degree of which will
obviously depend on driving conditions.
IB1334
Surface-treatment composition 1 Body panel
2 Zinc (certain parts) 7.5 µm
3 Phosphate coating
4 Cathodic ED 28 µm
5 Intermediate coat 35 µm
6 Metallic base/solid base15 µm
7 Clear enamel 40 µm
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230 Car careInspect the undercoating and touch up if
necessary. Pay particular attention to the
fenders and wheel housings, which are
exposed to abrasion by flying gravel, etc. If
the composition has worn or flaked off, the
steel must be thoroughly cleaned and dried
before a fresh coat is applied. The cleaning
is best done with a scraper and a steel wire
brush, followed by washing with solvent.
Apply the new coating thinly, otherwise it
may run off or fall off when dry.
Recovery and/or
recycling of automotive
materialsA typical car consists of metals (65–75%),
plastics (10–15%), rubber (5%) and small
quantities of glass, wood, paper and tex-
tiles.
Some of these materials can be recycled,
while others can be recovered in chemical
processes for reuse in new products or as a
source of energy.
While the Saab 9-3 was still at the draw-
ing-board stage, Saab engineers were
giving serious consideration to how the
maximum quantity of materials could be
reclaimed from the car on its eventual
scrapping. To facilitate sorting, plastic parts,
for instance, have been marked to identify
the precise nature of the plastic.Approximately 90% of the materials in the
car can be recycled or recovered, where
facilities exist.
Before the car is scrapped, all the oils and
other fluids that could pollute the environ-
ment should be recovered from the car. It
may be of interest in this context to learn that
the refrigerant used in the Saab 9-3’s A/C
and ACC systems (R134a) contains neither
CFCs nor any other chlorine compounds
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231 Car care
1 A-pillar trim: PC/ABS.
2 Windshield trim: PP, PP/EPDM.
3 Seals: EPDM.
4 Rear-window casing PUR.
5 Trim panel ABS.
6 C/D-pillar trim PP.
7 Rear light cluster: PMMA.
8 Corner filler panel PPO/PA.
9 Rear bumper
Expanded PP core
PP/EPDM sheathing.
10 Fuel tank PE.
11 Side-window casing:
PP/EPDM.
12 Side trim PVC.
13 A-pillar upholstery textile trim: polyester.
14 Rearview mirror: ABS.
15 Sill scuff plate: PP/EPDM.
16 Wheel-arch liner: PP.
17 Wheel cover: PA.
18 Direction-indicator lamp lens: PMMA.
19 Front spoiler: PP/EPDM.
20 Front bumper,
cellular core, expanded PP,
sheathing: PP/EPDM.
21 Fan shroud: PP.
22 Radiator grille: ABS.
23 Washer-fluid reservoir: PE.
24 Cowl trim: PC/ASA.
IB927
19 20 21 22 23 24 1 2 3 4
18 1716
15 14 13 12
11 7
10 98 6 5 ABS Acr ylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
ASA Acrylonitrile-styrene (acrylic plastic)
EPDM Ethylene-propylene rubber
PA Polyamide (plastic)
PC Polycarbonate (plastic)
PE Polyethylene
PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate
POM Acetal plastic
PPO Polyphenylene oxide (plastic)
PP Polypropylene
PUR Polyurethane
PVC Polyvinyl chloride
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236 Maintenance and owner assistanceMaintenance scheduleThe Maintenance Schedule prescribes a
service program to the purchaser/operator
of a Saab that is reasonable and necessary
to ensure the proper emission control sys-
tems function, safety and reliability of the
Saab automobile in normal use. Additional
maintenance is recommended for specific
components when the car is operated under
certain severe conditions. Proper mainte-
nance is always a good practice!
Authorized Saab dealers are equipped and
trained to meet your Saab’s service needs.
They regularly receive up-to-date Saab ser-
vice manuals and parts and technical ser-
vice bulletins from Saab and are able,
through their franchise agreement, to attend
Saab service schools, obtain Saab special
tools and technical assistance and pur-
chase original equipment service and
replacement parts.
Today’s complex automobiles should only
be entrusted to the most knowledgeable
service professionals. A Saab dealer is your
best choice.
Service intervalsThe maintenance schedule is comprised of
a Check -up 30 days after retail delivery, fol-
lowed by services at every 10,000 miles
(16,000 km) thereafter (10,000, 20,000,
30,000 miles/16,000 32,000, 48,000 km
etc.).
Engine oil and filter changesChanging the engine oil and filter is required
at every service point. Use only a Saab
approved long-life oil filter and engine oils
meeting the SAE viscosity ratings and API
service classifications stated in the “Techni-
cal data” section of this Owner’s Manual.
The use of extra additives in the oil is not
necessary and is not recommended, and
may be harmful to turbochargers.
More frequent oil changes are recom-
mended if your vehicle is operated under
any of the following conditions:
 Most trips are less than 5-10 miles (8-16
km). This is particularly important when
outside temperatures are below freezing.
 Most trips include extensive idling (fre-
quent stop-and-go traffic).
 Most trips are through dusty areas (such
as construction zones).
 If the vehicle is used for delivery service,
police, taxi or other commercial applica-
tions.
If your driving habits match this description,
have the engine oil and filter changed in-
between normal services at 5,000 mile
(8,000 km) intervals. These conditions
cause the engine oil to break down faster.
The Warranties and Service Record Book-
let has provisions to record extra oil
changes.
NOTEThe Check-up will be done by your Saab
dealer at no charge and should be done
as close as possible to the scheduled 30
days.
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