Page 252 of 468

4-30 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you'll need
longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice.
Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you
and your passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
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4-31
If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you'll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that when
your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it's only shallow water, it can still wash away
the ground from under your tires, and you could
lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations
can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Page 261 of 468

4-39
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as ªhighway hypnosisº?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the
road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind
against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don't let it
happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the
road in less than a second, and you could crash and
be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis?
First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead
and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your
instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service
or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or
both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as
an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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4-42
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
'If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
fine until you hit a spot that's covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you're actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
Page 267 of 468

4-45
Recreational Vehicle Towing
There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle
behind another vehicle for use at your destination.
Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed
for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions
for the towing equipment.
When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to OFF. To
prevent your battery from draining while towing, remove
the IGN 0 fuse from the instrument panel fuse block.
Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach your destination.
See ªFuses and Circuit Breakersº in the Index.
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Tw o-wheel-drive vehicles, should not be towed
with all four wheels on the ground. Two
-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles,
they should be placed on a platform trailer with all
four wheels off the ground.
In rare cases when it's unavoidable that a
two
-wheel-drive vehicle is to be towed with all four
wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke
orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft
removed following the applicable service manual
removal/installation procedure.
Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission
through the opening created by removing the propeller
shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check
the transmission fluid level before driving the truck.
Page 268 of 468

4-46 Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission,
or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. You or others could be injured.
Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before
you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.
Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),
or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N).
See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index for the
proper procedure to select the neutral position for
your vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain as long
as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering
column will allow the proper movement of the front
wheels and tires during towing.
Page 273 of 468
4-51
Q:What is front axle reserve capacity, and how
do I calculate it?
A:Front axle reserve capacity is the difference
between your front GAWR and the front axle
weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers.
Basically, it's the amount of weight you can add to
your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.
The front axle reserve
capacity for your
vehicle can be
found in the lower
right corner of the
tire/certification label.In order to calculate the amount of weight any front
accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the
front axle, use the following formula:
(W x (A + W.B))/W.B.= Weight the accessory is
adding to the front axle.
Where:
W=Weight of added accessory
A=Distance that the accessory is in front of the
A=front axle
W.B.=Vehicle Wheelbase
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4-52
For example, adding a 700 lb. (318 kg) snow plow
actually adds more than 700 lb. (318 kg) to the
front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is
4 ft. (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the
wheel base is 10 ft. (305 cm), then:
W=700 lb. (318 kg)
A=4 ft. (122 cm)
W.B.=10 ft. (305 cm)
(W x (A + W.B.))/W.B.= (700 x (4 + 10))/10 =
980 lb. (445 kg)
So, if your truck's front axle reserve capacity is
more than 980 lb. (445 kg), you could add this
snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.
Q:What if I want to add heavier equipment to
my vehicle?
A:You can add heavier equipment on the front of the
vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer
passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo more
towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the
load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear
GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.
CAUTION:
On some vehicles equipped with certain front
mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may
be possible to load the front axle to the front
GAWR but not have enough weight on the rear
axle to have proper braking performance.
If your brakes can't work properly, you could
have a crash. To help your brakes work properly
when a snow plow is installed, always follow
the snow plow manufacturer or installer's
recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a
proper front and rear weight distribution ratio,
even though the actual front weight may be less
than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle
weight is less than the GVWR. Maintaining a
proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is
necessary to provide proper braking performance.