Page 301 of 443

5-18
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Page 352 of 443

6-31
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with
DEX
-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designed
to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only
DEX
-COOL extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how
to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
with engine overheating, see ªEngine Overheatingº in
the Index.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX
-COOL coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to
-34F (-37C).
Give boiling protection up to 265F (129C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use
only DEX
-COOL (silicate-free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the
engine coolant will require change sooner
-- at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,
whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use
of coolant other than DEX
-COOL is not
covered by your new vehicle warranty.
Page 353 of 443

6-32 What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one
-half DEX-COOL coolant which won't damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you
don't need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system
can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other
liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle's coolant
warning system is set for the proper coolant
mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture,
your engine could get too hot but you wouldn't
get the overheat warning. Your engine could
catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water
and DEX
-COOL coolant.
NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your
engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn't be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can
freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core
and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year,
have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don't have to
add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to
improve the system. These can be harmful.
Page 378 of 443
6-57
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire
chain clearance to the body and chassis.
See ªChanging a Flat Tireº in the Index for
more information.Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can't know how it's been used or
how far it's been driven. It could fail suddenly
and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel,
use a new GM original equipment wheel.
Page 400 of 443
6-79 Cooling System Capacity
After refill, the level must be rechecked. See ªCooling Systemº in the Index.
Engine Transmission Quantity
VORTEC 4800 V8 Automatic with front A/C 14.4 quarts (13.6 L)
VORTEC 4800 V8 Automatic with front and rear A/C 15.8 quarts (15.0 L)
VORTEC 5300 V8 Automatic with front A/C 14.4 quarts (13.6 L)
VORTEC 5300 V8* Automatic with front and rear A/C 15.8 quarts (15.0 L)
VORTEC 6000 V8 Automatic 15.8 quarts (15.0 L)
VORTEC 6000 V8** Automatic with engine oil cooler 15.4 quarts (14.6 L)
VORTEC 8100 V8 Automatic 20.7 quarts (19.6 L)
* Vehicles equipped with the optional air conditioner.
** Vehicles equipped with the optional engine oil cooler.
Add one liter if equipped with rear heating for all engines.
Page 419 of 443
Scheduled Maintenance
7-16
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service,
whichever occurs first). See ªEngine Coolantº in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test
the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service.
Change five
-speed manual transmission fluid (with 4300 V6 or
4800 V8 engines only).
ACTUAL
SERVICED BY:MILEAGE
DATE
Page 426 of 443

7-23 Fuel System Inspection
Inspect the complete fuel system for damage or leaks.
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they are
cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes,
fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the outside
of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. To help
ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling
system and pressure cap is recommended at least once
a year.
Throttle System Inspection
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding,
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as
needed. Replace any components that have high effort
or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and
cruise control cables.
Transfer Case and Front Axle
(Four-Wheel Drive) Inspection
Every 12 months or at engine oil change intervals, check
front axle and transfer case and add lubricant when
necessary. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check
and have it repaired, if needed. On manual shift transfer
case, oil the control lever pivot point. Check vent hose at
transfer case for kinks and proper installation. More
frequent lubrication may be required on off
-road use.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hook
-up, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors
for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts,
including calipers, parking brake, etc. You may need to
have your brakes inspected more often if your driving
habits or conditions result in frequent braking.
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