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Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as ªhighway hypnosisº?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on
the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the
wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy.
Don't let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can
leave the road in less than a second, and you could
crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis?
First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead
and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your
instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,
service or parking area and take a nap, get some
exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on
the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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4-37
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. See ªOff
-Road
Drivingº in the Index for information about
driving off
-road.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you
go down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don't shift down, your brakes could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let your engine
assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down. They could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and
transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two
-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no
-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads.
Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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4-38
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply
of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer
clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and
reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving
under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these
items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You'll
have a lot less traction or ªgripº and will need to be
very careful.
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4-39
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while
you're actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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4-43
4. With the engine running, shift the transfer case to
NEUTRAL. See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index
for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL
position for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission,
or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. You or others could be injured.
Make sure the parking brake is firmly set
before you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.
See ªFour
-Wheel Drive (Automatic Transfer Case)º
in the Index.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper
movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.
Loading Your Vehicle
The Certification/Tire label is found on the driver's door
edge, above the door latch. The label shows the size of
your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to
obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is
called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The
GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants,
fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer.
The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR).
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4-48 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always
use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more
than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear)
when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it's better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.
Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to,
a lower gear). See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the weight on your vehicle's tires.
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4-52 Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver's door or
see ªTire Loadingº in the Index. Then be sure you
don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including
the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight
-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size. This equipment
is very important for proper vehicle loading and
good handling when you're driving.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle. See ªCarbon Monoxideº in the
Index. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer's brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to
be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check
your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good
deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move
your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with
the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won't
strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
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