2001 DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY oil type

VISUAL INSPECTION
Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) and Resin Trans-
fer Molded (RTM), because they are composites, react
differently to impact that sheet metal does. Compos-
ite materials can mask the severity of an accident.
Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of the doors,
and steel structure need to be inspected carefully to
get a true damage assessment. Close inspection may
require partial removal of interior trim or inner pan-
els.
Identify the type of repair:
Puncture or Crack ± Damage that has penetrated
completely through the panel. Damage is confined to
one general area; a panel section is not required.
However, a backer panel, open fiberglass tape, or
matted material must be bonded from behind (Fig.
7).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
SMC or RTM panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at
the end of the crack farthest away from the damage.
If spider web cracks can not be stopped, the panel
would require replacement. The surfaces around the
damaged area should be stripped of paint and freed
from was and oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area
with 360 grit wet/dry sand paper, or equivalent, to
assure adhesion of epoxy repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
An RTM or SMC panel that has extensive punc-
ture type damage can be repaired by cutting out the
damaged material (Fig. 8). Use a suitable reciprocat-
ing saw or cut off wheel to remove the section of the
SMC or RTM panel that is damaged. The piece cut
out can be used as a template to shape the new
patch. It is not necessary to have access to the back
of the panel to install a patch. Bevel edges of cutout
at 20 degrees to expose a larger bonding area on the
outer side. This will allow for an increased reinforce-
ment areas.
PANEL PATCH FABRICATIONS
A patch can be fabricated from any rigid fiberglass
panel that has comparable contour with the repair
area. discard SMC or RTM panels. Lift gates and
fenders can be used to supply patch material. If
existing material is not available or compatible, a
patch can be constructed with epoxy and reinforce-
ment mesh (dry wall tape). Perform the following
operation if required:
(1) Cover waxed paper or plastic with adhesive
backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) larger than the
patch required (Fig. 9).
(2) Tape waxed paper or plastic sheet with mesh to
a surface that has a compatible contour to the repair
area.
(3) Apply a liberal coat of epoxy adhesive over the
reinforcement mesh (Fig. 9). If necessary apply a sec-
ond or third coat of epoxy and mesh after firs coat
has cured. The thickness of the patch should be the
same as the repair area.
(4) After patch has cured, peel waxed paper or
plastic from the back of the patch.
Fig. 7 Damage Component
1 - PUNCTURE
Fig. 8 DAMAGED PANEL CUTOUT AND PATCH
1 - CUTOUT
2 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
3 - 4MM (0.160 IN.) HOLES
4 - PATCH CUT TO SIZE
23 - 6 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
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receptacles in the two lower finger formations of the
evaporator housing near the dash panel.
(5) Install and tighten the three screws that secure
the heater core shield to the left end of the heater/air
conditioner housing. Tighten the screws to 2 N´m (17
in. lbs.).
(6) Reinstall the silencer under the driver side end
of the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT PANEL
SILENCER - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(8) Perform the heater-A/C control calibration pro-
cedure. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITION-
ING/CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CONTROL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CON-
TROL CALIBRATION).
BLOWER MOTOR RELAY
DESCRIPTION
TERMINAL LEGEND
NUMBER IDENTIFICATION
30 COMMON FEED
85 COIL GROUND
86 COIL BATTERY
87 NORMALLY OPEN
87A NORMALLY CLOSED
The blower motor relay (Fig. 7) is a International
Standards Organization (ISO) mini-relay. Relays con-
forming to the ISO specifications have common phys-
ical dimensions, current capacities, terminal
patterns, and terminal functions. The ISO mini-relay
terminal functions are the same as a conventional
ISO relay. However, the ISO mini-relay terminal pat-
tern (or footprint) is different, the current capacity is
lower, and the physical dimensions are smaller than
those of the conventional ISO relay. The blower
motor relay is located in the Intelligent Power Mod-
ule (IPM), which is in the engine compartment near
the battery. See the fuse and relay layout map
molded into the inner surface of the IPM cover for
blower motor relay identification and location.
The black, molded plastic case is the most visible
component of the blower motor relay. Five male
spade-type terminals extend from the bottom of the
base to connect the relay to the vehicle electrical sys-
tem, and the ISO designation for each terminal is
molded into the base adjacent to each terminal. The
ISO terminal designations are shown in (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Blend Door Actuator
1 - CONNECTOR
2 - MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
3 - SCREW (2)
4 - DRIVER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR (DUAL-ZONE ONLY)
5 - HEATER CORE
6 - BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR (SINGLE-ZONE) OR PASSENGER
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR (DUAL-ZONE)
Fig. 7 Blower Motor Relay
RSCONTROLS - FRONT24-13
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR (Continued)
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ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOD-
ULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE -
DESCRIPTION - PCM OPERATION).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH AIR GAP
If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are being
used, the air gap between the clutch plate and clutch
pulley must be checked using the following proce-
dure:
(1) Using feeler gauges, measure the air gap
between the clutch plate and the clutch pulley fric-
tion surfaces.
(2) If the air gap is not between 0.5 and 0.9 mm
(0.020 and 0.035 in.), add or subtract shims until the
desired air gap is obtained.
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening
the compressor shaft bolt. Check the air gap in four
or more places on the clutch plate to verify that the
air gap is still correct. Spin the clutch pulley before
making the final air gap check.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
check that the compressor clutch coil is performing to
specifications. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CON-
DITIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If
the clutch coil is performing to specifications, per-
form the compressor clutch break-in procedure. This
procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction
surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch
torque capability.
(1) Set the heater-A/C controls to the A/C mode,
with the blower switch in the highest speed position.
(2) Start the engine and hold the engine speed at
1500 to 2000 rpm.
(3) Cycle the compressor clutch On and Off about
twenty times (five seconds On, then five seconds Off).
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
Although the compressor assembly must be removed
from its mounting, the compressor clutch can be ser-
vice with the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
2.4L - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Disconnect the engine wire harness connector
for the compressor clutch coil from the clutch coil pig-
tail wire connector on the top of the compressor.
(5) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines, dis-
engage the retainer on the engine wire harness com-
pressor clutch coil take out from the bracket on the
top of the compressor.
(6) On models with the 2.4L engine, remove all of
the compressor mounting screws except the upper
left (rear of the compressor) screw, which should only
be loosened. Allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then tighten the loosened upper
left compressor mounting screw.
(7) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
remove the three screws and one nut that secure the
compressor to the engine. Disengage the mounting
ear at the front of the compressor from the stud on
the engine, allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then reinstall and tighten the
upper left compressor mounting screw.
(8) Remove the compressor shaft bolt (Fig. 13). If
necessary, a band-type oil filter wrench or a strap
wrench can be placed around the clutch plate to aid
in bolt removal.
(9) Tap the clutch plate lightly with a plastic ham-
mer and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from
Fig. 13 Compressor Shaft Bolt and Clutch Plate
1 - COMPRESSOR SHAFT BOLT
2 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE
24 - 18 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)
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packing from around the compressor shaft in the
compressor front cover. If the felt is saturated with
oil, the compressor front shaft seal is leaking and the
compressor will also have to be replaced.
(3) Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness
or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the clutch
pulley and clutch plate if the bearing is faulty.
INSTALLATION
The refrigerant system can remain fully charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
Although the compressor assembly must be removed
from its mounting, the compressor clutch can be ser-
vice with the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Align the dowel pin on the back of the clutch
coil with the hole in the compressor front cover, and
position the clutch coil onto the compressor. Be cer-
tain that the clutch coil pigtail wires are properly ori-
ented and routed so that they are not pinched
between the compressor front cover and the clutch
coil.
NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the
clutch coil to the compressor. The bevel side of the
snap ring must face outward.
(2) Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or
equivalent), install the external snap ring that
secures the clutch coil to the front cover of the com-
pressor (Fig. 16). The bevel side of the snap ring
must face outward and both snap ring eyelets must
be oriented to the right or the left of the clutch coil
dowel pin location on the compressor. Be certain that
the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the
groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the
groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch fail-
ure and severe damage to the compressor front
cover.
(3) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
clutch coil pigtail wire connector bracket and ground
clip to the top of the compressor housing.
(4) Install the pulley onto the front cover of the
compressor. If necessary, tap the pulley gently with a
block of wood placed on the pulley friction surface
(Fig. 17).
CAUTION: Do not mar the friction surfaces of the
pulley.
NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the
clutch pulley to the compressor. The bevel side of
the snap ring must face outward.(5) Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or
equivalent), install the external snap ring (bevel side
facing outward) that secures the clutch pulley to the
front cover of the compressor (Fig. 15). Be certain
that the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the
groove.
(6) If the original clutch plate and clutch pulley
are to be reused, reinstall the original shim(s) on the
compressor shaft against the shoulder (Fig. 14). If a
new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are being used,
install a trial stack of shims 1.0 mm (0.040 in.) thick
on the compressor shaft against the shoulder.
(7) Install the clutch plate onto the compressor
shaft.
(8) Install and tighten the compressor shaft nut
(Fig. 13). If necessary, a band-type oil filter wrench
or a strap wrench can be placed around the clutch
plate to aid in bolt tightening. Tighten the bolt to
17.5 N´m (155 in. lbs.).
(9) If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are
being installed, the air gap between the clutch plate
and clutch pulley must be checked. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS -
FRONT/COMPRESSOR CLUTCH - STANDARD
PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH AIR GAP).
(10) On models with the 2.4L engine only, loosely
install the four screws that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket on the engine. Tighten the
screws to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 17 Install Clutch Pulley
1 - PULLEY ASSEMBLY
2 - WOOD BLOCK
24 - 20 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)
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cover for compressor clutch relay identification and
location.
The black, molded plastic case is the most visible
component of the compressor clutch relay. Five male
spade-type terminals extend from the bottom of the
base to connect the relay to the vehicle electrical sys-
tem, and the ISO designation for each terminal is
molded into the base adjacent to each terminal. Refer
to (Fig. 8)
OPERATION
The compressor clutch relay is an electromechani-
cal switch that uses a low current input from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to control the high
current output to the compressor clutch electromag-
netic coil. The movable common feed contact point is
held against the fixed normally closed contact point
by spring pressure. When the relay coil is energized,
an electromagnetic field is produced by the coil wind-
ings. This electromagnetic field draws the movable
relay contact point away from the fixed normally
closed contact point, and holds it against the fixed
normally open contact point. When the relay coil is
de-energized, spring pressure returns the movable
contact point back against the fixed normally closed
contact point. The resistor or diode is connected in
parallel with the relay coil in the relay, and helps to
dissipate voltage spikes and electromagnetic interfer-
ence that can be generated as the electromagnetic
field of the relay coil collapses.
The compressor clutch relay terminals are con-
nected to the vehicle electrical system through a
receptacle in the Intelligent Power Module (IPM).
The inputs and outputs of the compressor clutch
relay include:
²The common feed terminal (30) receives a bat-
tery current input from a fuse in the IPM through a
fused B(+) circuit at all times.
²The coil ground terminal (85) receives a ground
input from the PCM through the compressor clutch
relay control circuit only when the PCM electroni-
cally pulls the control circuit to ground.²The coil battery terminal (86) receives a battery
current input from the PCM through a fused ignition
switch output (run-start) circuit only when the igni-
tion switch is in the On or Start positions.
²The normally open terminal (87) provides a bat-
tery current output to the compressor clutch coil
through the compressor clutch relay output circuit
only when the compressor clutch relay coil is ener-
gized.
²The normally closed terminal (87A) is not con-
nected to any circuit in this application, but provides
a battery current output only when the compressor
clutch relay coil is de-energized.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper
wire and connector repair procedures, further details
on wire harness routing and retention, as well as
pin-out and location views for the various wire har-
ness connectors, splices, and grounds.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH RELAY
The compressor clutch relay (Fig. 18) is located in
the Intelligent Power Module (IPM), which is in the
engine compartment near the battery. See the fuse
and relay layout map molded into the inner surface
of the IPM cover for compressor clutch relay identifi-
cation and location. Remove the relay from the IPM
to perform the following tests:
(1) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(2) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 7565 ohms. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, use a DRBIIItscan tool to perform
further diagnosis of the relay circuits. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information. If not OK,
replace the faulty relay.
24 - 22 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY (Continued)
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quarter inner panel. Tighten the screw to 11 N´m (97
in. lbs.).
(7) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
back of the rear heater-A/C unit housing to the right
D-pillar. Tighten the screw to 11 N´m (97 in. lbs.).
(8) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the top of the quarter trim panel attaching bracket to
the quarter inner panel. Tighten the screws to 1.7
N´m (15 in. lbs.).
(9) Reinstall the right quarter trim panel and
right D-pillar trim panel onto the quarter inner
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/QUARTER
TRIM PANEL - INSTALLATION).
(10) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(11) Perform the heater-A/C control calibration
procedure. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CON-
TROL - STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C
CONTROL CALIBRATION).
BLOWER MOTOR RELAY
DESCRIPTION
TERMINAL LEGEND
NUMBER IDENTIFICATION
30 COMMON FEED
85 COIL GROUND
86 COIL BATTERY
87 NORMALLY OPEN
87A NORMALLY CLOSED
The blower motor relay (Fig. 5) is a International
Standards Organization (ISO) mini-relay. Relays con-
forming to the ISO specifications have common phys-ical dimensions, current capacities, terminal
patterns, and terminal functions. The ISO mini-relay
terminal functions are the same as a conventional
ISO relay. However, the ISO mini-relay terminal pat-
tern (or footprint) is different, the current capacity is
lower, and the physical dimensions are smaller than
those of the conventional ISO relay. The blower
motor relay is located in the Intelligent Power Mod-
ule (IPM), which is in the engine compartment near
the battery. See the fuse and relay layout map
molded into the inner surface of the IPM cover for
compressor clutch relay identification and location.
The black, molded plastic case is the most visible
component of the blower motor relay. Five male
spade-type terminals extend from the bottom of the
base to connect the relay to the vehicle electrical sys-
tem, and the ISO designation for each terminal is
molded into the base adjacent to each terminal. The
ISO terminal designations are as follows:
²30 (Common Feed)- This terminal is con-
nected to the movable contact point of the relay.
²85 (Coil Ground)- This terminal is connected
to the ground feed side of the relay control coil.
²86 (Coil Battery)- This terminal is connected
to the battery feed side of the relay control coil.
²87 (Normally Open)- This terminal is con-
nected to the normally open fixed contact point of the
relay.
²87A (Normally Closed)- This terminal is con-
nected to the normally closed fixed contact point of
the relay.
The factory-installed blower motor relay cannot be
adjusted or repaired. If the relay is damaged or
faulty, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The blower motor relay is an electromechanical
switch that uses a low current input from the Front
Control Module (FCM) to control the high current
output to the blower motor resistor (manual heater-
A/C control) or blower power module (automatic heat-
er-A/C control). The movable common feed contact
point is held against the fixed normally closed con-
tact point by spring pressure. When the relay coil is
energized, an electromagnetic field is produced by the
coil windings. This electromagnetic field draws the
movable relay contact point away from the fixed nor-
mally closed contact point, and holds it against the
fixed normally open contact point. When the relay
coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns the mov-
able contact point back against the fixed normally
closed contact point. The resistor or diode is con-
nected in parallel with the relay coil in the relay, and
helps to dissipate voltage spikes and electromagnetic
interference that can be generated as the electromag-
netic field of the relay coil collapses.
Fig. 5 Blower Motor Relay
RSCONTROLS - REAR24-33
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR (Continued)
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(9) Remove the seal from the discharge line fitting
and discard.
(10) Install plugs in, or tape over the opened dis-
charge line fitting and the compressor discharge port.
(11) Raise and support the vehicle.
(12) Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt
from the front of the engine. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 2.4L -
REMOVAL) or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 3.3L/3.8L - REMOVAL).
(13) Disconnect the engine wire harness connector
for the compressor clutch coil from the coil pigtail
wire connector on the top of the compressor (Fig. 1)
or (Fig. 2).
(14) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
disengage the retainer on the engine wire harness
compressor clutch coil take out from the bracket on
the top of the compressor.
(15) On models with the 2.4L engine, remove the
four screws that secure the compressor to the mount-
ing bracket on the engine.
(16) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
remove the three screws and one nut that secure the
compressor to the engine.
(17) Remove the compressor from the engine com-
partment.
NOTE: If a replacement compressor is being
installed, be certain to drain and measure the refrig-
erant oil contained in the removed compressor.
This will determine how much oil the replacement
compressor must contain before it is installed.(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGERANT OIL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL).
REMOVAL - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING
BRACKET - 2.4L ENGINE
(1) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the four screws that secure the com-
pressor mounting bracket to the engine (Fig. 3).
(3) Remove the compressor mounting bracket from
the engine.
INSTALLATION - COMPRESSOR
NOTE: If a replacement compressor is being
installed, be certain to check the refrigerant oil
level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGERANT OIL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL).
Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended
for the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Position the compressor into the engine com-
partment.
(2) On models with the 2.4L engine, loosely install
the four screws that secure the compressor to the
mounting bracket on the engine (Fig. 1). Tighten the
screws to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 1 Compressor - 2.4L Engine
1 - CLUTCH COIL CONNECTOR
2 - DISCHARGE PORT
3 - COMPRESSOR
4 - SUCTION PORT
5 - SCREW (4)
6 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BRACKET
Fig. 2 Compressor - 3.3L/3.8L Engine
1 - STUD
2 - CLUTCH COIL CONNECTOR
3 - DISCHARGE PORT
4 - SCREW (2)
5 - SUCTION PORT
6 - COMPRESSOR
7 - SCREW
8 - NUT
24 - 66 PLUMBING - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the condenser is being replaced, add 30
milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the
refrigerant system. Use only refrigerant oil of the
type recommended for the compressor in the vehi-
cle.
NOTE: Be certain that each of the radiator and con-
denser air seals are reinstalled in their proper loca-
tions. These air seals are required in order for the
air conditioning and engine cooling systems to per-
form as designed.
(1) Position the condenser to the right mounting
bracket and transmission oil cooler unit.
(2) Position the left mounting bracket onto the side
of the condenser and transmission oil cooler.
(3) Install and tighten the one screw that secures
the left mounting bracket to the side of the transmis-
sion oil cooler. Tighten the screw to 5 N´m (45 in.
lbs.).
(4) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
each mounting bracket to the sides of the condenser.
Tighten the screws to 5 N´m (45 in. lbs.).(5) Position the condenser, transmission oil cooler,
and mounting brackets into the vehicle as a unit. Be
certain that the locating pins that secure the mount-
ing brackets are engaged in the lower mount rubber
isolators on each side of the cooling module (Fig. 5).
(6) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the top of the mounting bracket on each side of the
condenser to the cooling module. Tighten the screws
to 5 N´m (45 in. lbs.).
(7) Remove the tape or plugs from the condenser
outlet port and the liquid line fitting.
(8) Lubricate a new rubber O-ring seal with clean
refrigerant oil and install it on the liquid line fitting.
(9) Reconnect the liquid line fitting to the con-
denser outlet port on the right side of the cooling
module.
(10) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
liquid line fitting to the condenser. Tighten the nut to
23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Remove the tape or plugs from the condenser
inlet port and the discharge line fitting.
(12) Lubricate a new rubber O-ring seal with clean
refrigerant oil and install it on the discharge line fit-
ting.
(13) Reconnect the discharge line fitting to the
condenser inlet port on the right side of the cooling
module.
(14) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
discharge line fitting to the condenser. Tighten the
nut to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(15) Reconnect the hoses to the transmission oil
cooler fittings on the left side of the cooling module.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS
COOLER LINES - INSTALLATION).
(16) Reposition the hood latch unit to the front of
the radiator closure panel crossmember.
(17) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the hood latch unit to the front of the radiator clo-
sure panel crossmember. Check and adjust the hood
latch as needed. Tighten the screws to 14 N´m (123
in. lbs.).
(18) Position the radiator sight shield onto the
radiator closure panel crossmember (Fig. 4).
(19) Install and tighten the five small screws that
secure the front fascia grille inserts to the radiator
sight shield. Tighten the screws to 2 N´m (18 in. lbs.).
(20) Install and tighten the two large screws that
secure the front fascia and the outboard ends of the
radiator sight shield to the radiator closure panel
crossmember. Tighten the screws to 6 N´m (53 in.
lbs.).
(21) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
FRONT/REFRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE).
Fig. 5 Condenser Mounting
1 - SCREW (2)
2 - LOWER MOUNT ISOLATOR (2)
3 - CONDENSER
RSPLUMBING - FRONT24-69
CONDENSER (Continued)
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