2001 DODGE RAM ESP

nished to correct size (Fig. 35).DO NOT ream this
bushing.
CAUTION: This procedure MUST be followed when
installing a new bushing or seizure to shaft may
occur.(4) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR -
INSTALLATION).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
Fig. 33 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3052
2 - BUSHING
Fig. 34 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
Fig. 35 Burnishing Distributor Driveshaft Bushing
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 151
DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING (Continued)

(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 49).
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A gear-type positive displacement pump (Fig. 48)is
mounted at the underside of the rear main bearing
cap. The pump uses a pick-up tube and screen
assembly to gather engine oil from the oil pan.
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the drive and idler gears and
pump body, then forced through the outlet to the
block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to
the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing
through the filter element, the oil passes from the
center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that
channels the oil up to the main gallery, which
extends the entire length on the right side of the
block. The oil then goes down to the No. 1 main bear-
ing, back up to the left side of the block, and into the
oil gallery on the left side of the engine.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oilpasses through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and pis-
ton pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 49).
Fig. 48 Positive Displacement Oil PumpÐTypical
1 - INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 - BODY
3 - DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 - COTTER PIN
5 - RETAINER CAP
6 - SPRING
7 - RELIEF VALVE
8 - LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 - BOLT
10 - COVER
11 - OUTER ROTOR
9 - 158 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

(3) Install the flange gaskets. Ensure that the ver-
tical port alignment tab is resting on the deck face of
the block. Also the horizontal alignment tabs must be
in position with the mating cylinder head gasket tabs
(Fig. 68). The words MANIFOLD SIDE should be vis-
ible on the center of each flange gasket.
(4) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, to the four corner joints.
An excessive amount of sealant is not required to
ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive
amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of
the flange gasket. The sealant should be approxi-
mately 5 mm (0.2 in) in diameter and 15mm (0.6 in.)
long.
(5) Install the front and rear end seals (Fig. 67).
Make sure the molded dowel pins on the end seals
fully enter the corresponding holes in the cylinder
block.
(6) Carefully lower intake manifold into position
on the cylinder block and cylinder heads. After intake
manifold is in place, inspect to make sure seals are
in place.
(7) Using a new gasket, install the throttle body
onto the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(200 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the intake manifold bolts and tighten as
follows (Fig. 69):
²Step 1. Tighten bolts 1 through 4 to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.) Tighten in alternating steps 1.4 N´m (12 in.
lbs.) at a time²Step 2. Tighten bolts 5 through 12 to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.)
²Step 3. Check all bolts are torqued to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.)
²Step 4. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 16 N´m
(12 ft. lbs.)
²Step 5. Check all bolts are torqued to 16 N´m
(12 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 67 Front and Rear End Seals
1 - FRONT END SEAL
2 - REAR END SEAL
Fig. 68 Intake Manifold Flange Gasket Alignment
1 - FLANGE GASKET
2 - ALIGNMENT TABS
3 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
Fig. 69 Intake Manifold Bolt Tightening Sequence
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 167
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove Timing Chain Cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Re-install the vibration damper bolt finger
tight. Using a suitable socket and breaker bar, rotate
the crankshaft to align timing marks as shown in
(Fig. 73).
(4) Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and
remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft
sprockets.
INSPECTIONÐMEASURING TIMING CHAIN
STRETCH
(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that
any movement of the chain may be measured.
(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over cam-
shaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the
direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed
or 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head
removed. With a torque applied to the camshaft
sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to
move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to
prevent rotation.
(3) Hold a scale with dimensional reading even
with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads
installed, apply 14 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the
reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed,
apply 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direc-
tion. Note the amount of chain movement (Fig. 74).
(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement
exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(2) Place timing chain around both sprockets.
(3) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam-
shaft sprocket.
(4) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 75).
(6) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68
N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Check camshaft end play. The end play should
be 0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 inch) with a new
thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a
used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a
new thrust plate.
(8) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 73 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
Fig. 74 Measuring Timing Chain Stretch
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - 3.175 MM (0.125 IN.)
Fig. 75 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
9 - 170 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure does not require the removal
of the seal retainer from the engine block.
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Carefully, remove the rear seal from the
retainer. Discard the oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
(2) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide, onto the
crankshaft.
(3) Position the oil seal onto the Seal guide, then
using Special Tool 8359 Seal Installer and C±4171
Driver Handle, Install the oil seal.
(4) The seal face surface must be countersunk into
the retainer.762±1.27mm (0.030±0.050 in.).
(5) Install the transmission.
(6) Check and verify engine oil is at correct level.
(7) Start engine and check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
9 - 206 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE

rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 52).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 215
LUBRICATION (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the valve stems with crocus cloth or a
Scotch-BriteŸ pad. Remove carbon with a soft wire
brush. Clean valves, springs, retainers, and valve
retaining locks in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the valves for abnormal wear on
the heads, stems, and tips. Replace any valve that is
worn out or bent (Fig. 40).
Measure the valve stem diameter in three places
as shown in (Fig. 41).Measure the cylinder head valve guide bore (Fig.
42). Subtract the corresponding valve stem diameter
to obtain valve stem-to-guide clearance.
Measure valve margin (rim thickness) (Fig. 43).
Fig. 40 Visually Inspect Valves for Abnormal Wear
Fig. 41 Measure Valve Stem Diameter
VALVE STEM DIAMETER
6.96 mm (0.2740 in.) MIN
7.010 mm (0.2760 in.) MAX
Fig. 42 Measure Valve Guide Bore
Fig. 43 Measure Valve Margin (Rim Thickness)
VALVE MARGIN (RIM THICKNESS)
0.72 mm (0.031 in.) MIN.
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 255
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(5) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(6) Using a hammer and steel stamp, identify the
front of the piston by stamping the cylinder number
in each piston to be removed at the top of the piston
toward the front of the engine. DO NOT stamp in the
outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston diameter.(7) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(8) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
(9) Use a hammer handle or similar object to push
the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder
bore.
(10) Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
(11) If a piston must be replaced, replace with the
same part number (grading) that was removed.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pis-
tons. DO NOT clean the pistons and rods in an acid
tank.
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent,
rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
Soaking the pistons over night will loosen most of the
carbon build up. De-carbon the ring grooves with a
broken piston ring and again clean the pistons in sol-
vent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear.
Check top of the piston, ring grooves, skirt and pin
bore. Measure the piston skirt diameter (Fig. 128). If
the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.
The upper groove only needs to be inspected for
damage. Use a new piston ring to measure the clear-
ance in the intermediate ring groove (Fig. 129). If the
clearance of the intermediate ring exceeds 0.095 mm
(0.0038 inch), replace the piston.
Use a new oil ring to measure the clearance in the
oil groove (Fig. 129). If the clearance exceeds 0.085
mm (0.0034 inch), replace the piston.
Measure the pin bore (Fig. 130). The maximum
diameter is 40.012 mm (1.5753 inch). If the bore is
over limits, replace the piston.
Inspect the piston pin for nicks, gouges and exces-
sive wear. Measure the pin diameter (Fig. 131). The
minimum diameter is 39.990 mm (1.5744 inch). If the
diameter is out of limits, replace the pin.
Fig. 127 Piston Grading Measurement
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 285
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)