2001 CHEVROLET S10 stop start

4-22
Q:Are there some things I should not do when
driving down a hill?
A:Yes! These are important because if you
ignore them you could lose control and have a
serious accident.

When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that's not too
steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across.
You could roll over if you don't drive straight down.

Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal
pressed down in a manual shift. This is called
ªfree
-wheeling.º Your brakes will have to do
all the work and could overheat and fade.
Q:Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A:It's much more likely to happen going uphill. But if
it happens going downhill, here's what to do.

Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.
Apply the parking brake.

Shift to PARK (P) (or to NEUTRAL (N) with the
manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart
the engine.

Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.

If the engine won't start, get out and get help.

4-24 Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you're crossing an incline, be
sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get
out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you'll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you'll need
longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

4-25
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On
these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for
example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty
accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and
difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly. At
fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and
your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get
your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you'll never be able to start your engine.
When you go through water, remember that when your
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it's
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.

4-28
Driving in Rain and on Wet RoadsRain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet
road, you can't stop, accelerate or turn as well because
your tire
-to-road traction isn't as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don't have much tread left, you'll get
even less traction. It's always wise to go slower and be
cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The
surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are
tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain
can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road and even
people walking.
It's wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer tank filled with
washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts
when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on
the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate
from the inserts.

4-55 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:

Start your engine;

Shift into a gear; and

Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.

5-17
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

6-16
As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for
your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W
-30 if it's
going to be 0
F (
-18
C) or above. These numbers on an
oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use
other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W
-50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American
Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline
Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the
recommended oil can result in engine damage
not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls
below
-20F (-29C), consider using either an
SAE 5W
-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both
will provide easier cold starting and better protection for
your engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good
performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.

Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop
-and-go traffic).

Your vehicle has a 2200 L4 (Code 5) flexible fuel
engine and you have used E
-85 ethanol fuel.

You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off
-road frequently.

You frequently tow a trailer.

The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.

6-68
Name Usage
LT TRN Left Turn Signal Rear
RT TRN Right Turn Signal Rear
RR PRK Right Rear Parking Lamps
TRL PRK Not Used
LT HDLP Left Headlamp
RT HDLP Right Headlamp
FR PRK Front Parking Lamps
INT BAT I/P Fuse Block Feed
ENG I Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF,
CAM, PURGE, VENT
ECM B Engine Control Module, Fuel
Pump Module, Oil Pressure
ABS Anti
-Lock Brake System
ECM I Engine Control Module Injectors
BTSI Automatic Transmission Shift
Lock Control System
B/U LP Back
-Up Lamps
A/C Air Conditioning
W/W PMP Not Used
HORN Horn
IGN B Column Feed, IGN 2, 3, 4
RAP Retained Accessory Power
LD LEV Not UsedName Usage
OXYSEN Oxygen Sensor
IGN E Engine
MIR/LKS Mirrors, Door Locks
FOG LP Fog Lamps
IGN A Starting and Charging IGN 1
STUD #2 Accessory Feeds, Electric Brake
PARKLP Parking Lamps
LR PRK Left Rear Parking Lamps
IGN C Starter Solenoid,
Fuel Pump, PRNDL
HTDSEAT Not Used
HVAC HVAC System
TRCHMSL Not Used
RRDFOG Not Used
TBC Truck Body Computer
CRANK Clutch Switch, NSBU Switch
HAZLP Hazard Lamps
VECHMSL Vehicle Center
High
-Mounted Stoplamp
HTDMIR Heated Outside Mirrors
ATC Transfer Case (Four
-Wheel Drive)
STOPLP Stoplamps
RR W/W Not Used