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4-33 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Don't drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to
save wear on your vehicle's parts.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle's tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at:
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232
-5170
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163
-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Page 252 of 393

4-38 Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transaxle overheating.
If you have overdrive, you may want to
drive in THIRD (3), instead of
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ().
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
Page 253 of 393

4-39 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don't overfill),
engine oil, drive belts, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you find them quickly. If you're trailering, it's
a good idea to review this information before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. See ªEngine Overheatingº
in the Index.
Page 254 of 393
5-
5-1
Section 5 Problems on the Road
Here you'll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
5
-2 Hazard Warning Flashers
5
-2 Other Warning Devices
5
-3 Jump Starting
5
-9 Towing Your Vehicle
5
-9 Engine Overheating5
-12 Cooling System
5
-22 If A Tire Goes Flat
5
-22 Changing a Flat Tire
5
-32 Compact Spare Tire
5
-33 If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
Page 257 of 393

5-4
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual
transaxle in NEUTRAL.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all
lamps that aren't needed, and radios. This will avoid
sparks and help save both batteries, and it could save
your radio.
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.
CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine
is not running and can injure you. Keep hands,
clothing and tools away from any underhood
electric fan.
4. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on
each battery. The battery on your vehicle is located
on the passenger's side of the engine compartment
underneath the diagonal cross brace. See ªEngine
Compartment Overviewº in the Index for more
information on location. Your vehicle has a remote
positive (+) jump starting terminal. The terminal is
on the same side of the engine compartment as
your battery. You should always use the remote
positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+)
terminal on your battery.
Page 259 of 393
5-6
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged, too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) and negative (
-) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part. Don't connect
positive (+) to negative (
-), or you'll get a short
that would damage the battery and maybe other
parts, too.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Page 260 of 393
5-7
7. Don't let the other end
touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+)
terminal of the good
battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black
negative (
-) cable to the
good battery's
negative (
-) terminal.
Don't let the other end
touch anything until the
next step.
The other end of the negative (
-) cable doesn't go
to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted
metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away
from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that
move. The electrical connection is just as good
there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the
battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
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5-8
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won't start after a few tries, it probably
needs service.
Jumper Cable Removal Procedure
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead BatteryTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (
-) cable from the
heavy, unpainted metal engine part on the vehicle
that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (
-) cable from the
negative (
-) terminal on the vehicle with the
good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.