2000 SAAB 9-3 ESP

150 Starting and drivingABS brakesABS (Antilock Braking System) modulates
the brake pressure to the respective
wheels. Wheel sensors detect if a wheel is
about to lock, and the control module
reduces the pressure to that wheel and then
increases it once more until the tendency is
detected again.
The brake system is equipped with an Elec-
tronic Brake-force Distribution device
(EBD), which distributes the brake pressure
between the front and rear wheels in such a
way as to achieve optimum braking perfor-
mance regardless of the car’s speed and
load.
The ABS system has a built-in diagnostic
function which will switch on the ABS warn-
ing light if a fault is detected in the system
(see page 56). The ABS system will not reduce the braking
distance on loose gravel or on snow or ice
but, because the wheels cannot lock up,
some steering control is retained.
When the ABS system is working, i.e. mod-
ulation of the brake pressure is in progress,
the brake pedal will pulsate and a ticking
noise will be heard. All this is perfectly nor-
mal.
Press the pedal down hard (you cannot
press too hard) and steer the car to safety. Do not release the brake pedal before the
car has come to a halt or the danger is
past!
This is critical.
If the road is slippery, the ABS system will
operate even when only light pressure is
applied to the pedal. This means that you
can brake gently to test the condition of the
road and adapt your driving accordingly.
It is well worth practising the use of ABS
brakes on a skid pad or other suitable facil-
ity.
WARNING
 The additional safety afforded by the
ABS system is not designed to allow
drivers to drive faster but to make
normal driving safer.
 To stop as quickly as possible, without
loss of directional stability, whether
the road surface is dry, wet or slippery,
press the brake pedal down hard
without letting up (do not pump the
pedal), declutching simulta-
neously, and steer the car to safety.
IB877
ABS braking - confirmation that the sys-
tem is operating
IB878
Braking with ABS - evasive steering
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155 Starting and driving
 Check the anti-freeze in the engine cool-
ant, see page 174.
The car´s trip computer will warn you when
there is a risk of slippery conditions. For fur-
ther information on this function, see page
62.
The car is equipped with tires designed to
provide optimum grip on both wet and dry
roads, although this has been achieved at
the expense of somewhat reduced grip on
snow and ice. For regular driving on snow
and ice, we therefore recommend that
winter (snow) tires be fitted.
Winter (snow) tires, particularly studded
tires (where use is legally permitted), gener-
ally make driving safer on snow and ice. Acquaint yourself with the legal provi-
sions governing the use of different
types of winter tires and snow chains.
Studded tires are not allowed in some
countries.
If winter tires are installed, the same type
must be installed on all wheels. Your Saab
dealer will be pleased to advise you on the
best tires for your car.
Remember that tires age. It may therefore
be necessary to change them before they
reach the legal wear limit, as they gradually
lose their friction properties.
The best response if the car gets into a
front-wheel skid is to freewheel (manual
gearbox only), i.e. disengage the clutch (so
that the wheels are neither driven nor
braked by the engine) and carefully steer
the wheels in the direction you want to go.
If the car has an automatic transmission you
should lift off the accelerator somewhat and
carefully steer the wheels in the direction
you want to go.
In a rear-wheel skid, steer into the skid, i.e.
in the same direction as that in which the
back is sliding.
Tire chainsIf you want to fit tire chains (where legally
permitted) they should only be installed to
the tires recommended under ”Technical
data” (see page 227).
Consult your Saab dealer for details about
approved tire chains.
WARNING
 Do not exceed 30 mph (50 km/h)
when tire chains are fitted.
 Tire chains can reduce the directional
stability of the car.
 Tire chains must not be used on the
rear wheels.NOTE Check the links frequently for wear.
 Check that the chains do not contact
the wheel-arch liner at full lock.
 See section "Technical data", page
227, for information on allowable
wheel dimensions for the fitting of tire
chains.
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158 Starting and drivingTrailer hitch loadThe weight distribution on the trailer makes
a lot of difference to the handling properties
of the car and trailer combination.With sin-
gle-axle trailers, whenever possible, con-
centrate the load over the axle and keep it
as low as possible.
The trailer should be loaded so that the
maximum load on the towbar ball is 5% to
7% of the trailer weight with a maximum per-
missible tongue weight of 165 lbs (75 kg).
Note that this load must be added to the total
load for the car. If this now exceeds the
specified load capacity, the load in the trunk
will have to be reduced by a corresponding
amount. Driving considerationsAlways take extra care when towing a
trailer, as the car’s handling will be different
and its braking effect reduced. The trailer’s
braking system and suspension also have a
considerable effect on these characteris-
tics, see also "Driving with a load" page
160.
If the car is equipped with automatic trans-
mission, select position 1 when ascending
or descending steep hills.
Driving with a roof rack
loadThe maximum permissible roof load is
220 lbs (100 kg). Note that the roof load is
included in the car’s maximum permissible
load (see page 221).
Strong, sturdy roof carriers designed spe-
cially for the car are available from your
Saab dealer. Always secure the roof load
safely.
NOTEIf the “Automatic transmission fault
indicator” warning comes on, cease
towing until the problem has been recti-
fied.
WARNING
 A roof load will affect the car’s center
of gravity and aerodynamics. Be
aware of this when cornering and driv-
ing in crosswinds.
 Adjust your speed to the prevailing
conditions.
IB880
Distribution of load in trailer aLight
b Moderate
cHeavy
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174 Car care
(80°C). This can be achieved by driving
the car for about 30 min on the open
road.
2 With the engine idling, move the selector
lever to D and wait for at least
15 seconds. Next, move the selector
lever to R and wait for 15 seconds again.
Finally, move the selector lever to P. Let
the engine idle.
3 Wipe the dipstick clean with a lint-free
cloth and put it back.
4 With the fluid at normal temperature, the
level should be between the MAX and
MIN marks on the dipstick. Top up, as
necessary, with Texaco Texamatic
Dexron III automatic-transmission fluid,
adding it through the dipstick pipe. The
distance between the MIN and MAX
marks on the dipstick corresponds to a
volume of approximately 0.4 qts
(0.4 litre).
If the outside temperature is below 50°F
(10°C), the fluid will not reach the specified
temperature of 175°F (80°C). In this case,
the correct fluid level may be 0.8 in (20 mm)
below the MAX mark.
CoolantThe expansion tank is transparent, to facili-
tate checking. The level must be a little
under the mark ”KALT – COLD” on the tank
when the engine is cold. If the SID message
"FILL COOLANT FLUID" is displayed, the
level in the expansion tank should be
checked. Top up as necessary with equal
parts of clean water and coolant. Use only
coolant approved by Saab.
If the expansion tank is empty when coolant
is added, run the engine to normal temper-
ature and top up again, as necessary. Coolant The cooling system is filled at the factory
with coolant containing a 50% concentra-
tion of a combined antifreeze and corrosion
inhibitor. A weaker mixture will result in
reduced anticorrosion protection. For pro-
tection against freezing in very cold
weather, a stronger concentration will be
needed.
A 60% concentration of antifreeze will pro-
vide protection at temperatures down to
-58 F (-50°C).
The corrosion-inhibiting properties of the
coolant deteriorate over time, but coolant
approved by Saab can be used for
year-round protection. Change the coolant
as specified in the service program (page
215) and use only coolant approved by
Saab – other makes may need changing
more frequently and may damage the sys-
tem.
NOTEIf there is a burnt smell or the fluid is black,
change the fluid as soon as possible.
Coolant expansion tank
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181 Car care
Changing bulbs Headlight 1 Unscrew the cover from the back of the light units.
2 Unplug the connector.
3 Unhook the spring clip by pushing it forward and then to the side.
4 Remove the bulb.
5 Insert the new bulb, without touching the glass with your fingers.
Line it up so that the three lugs fit into the corresponding slots in
the reflector and secure it with the spring clip.IMPORTANT! When changing bulbs, use the same type of bulb,
(e.g. Long-life).
Headlight aiming, see page 208.
Parking lights The parking-light bulb is fitted in the same light unit as the headlight
bulb.
1 Remove the bulb holder from the lamp unit.
2 Then take the bulb out of the holder.
WARNING
Before changing a bulb in the engine bay, switch off the engine
to avoid the danger of fingers and hands being injured by
moving parts.
The radiator fan can cut in even when the engine is switched off. NOTESwitch off the ignition before changing a bulb, to avoid possible
short-circuiting. NOTEDo not fit bulbs with a rating above 60/55W, since the headlight
reflector and the wiring of the car are not designed for a higher
wattage.
Do not touch the glass of the bulbs with your fingers. The oil on
your skin can shorten the life of the bulb.
IB903
1 Headlight bulb
2 Parking-light bulb
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194 Car careUniform Tire Quality Grading (US)Quality grades can be found where applica-
ble on the tire sidewall between tread shoul-
der and maximum section width. For exam-
ple:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA
Temperature ATreadwearThe treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled conditions on
a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would wear one
and one half (1 1/2) times as well on the gov-
ernment course as a tire graded 100. The
relative performance of tires depends upon
the actual conditions of their use, however,
and may depart significantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service
practices and differences in road character-
istics and climate.
TractionThe traction grades, from highest to lowest,
are AA, A, B and C. These grades represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as
measured under controlled conditions on
specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may
have poor traction performance.
TemperatureThe temperature grades are A (the highest),
B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance
to the generation of heat and its ability to dis-
sipate heat when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate
and reduce tire life. Excessive temperature
can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C
corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet
under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 109.
Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel
than the minimum required by law.
WARNING
The traction grade assigned to a tire is
based on straight-ahead braking, traction
test and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning or peak traction
characteristics.
WARNING
The temperature grade for a tire is estab-
lished for a tire that is properly inflated
and not overloaded. Excessive speed,
underinflation, or excessive loading,
either separately or in combination, can
cause heat buildup and possible tire fail-
ure.
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199 Car care
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need bal-
ancing. Flat spots of this type disappear
once the tires get hot again, usually after
10–15 miles (20–25 km) of driving at cruis-
ing speed.
Safety beltsA check should be made periodically to
ensure that the safety belts are working
properly.
 Hold the diagonal strap and pull it sharply.
The seat belt should lock and it should not
be possible to withdraw it further.
A sharp tug on the belt should cause the
inertia reel to lock. Check the floor anchor-
age points for corrosion damage. If a belt is
worn or has any fraying edges, it should be
replaced.
Safety belts must not come into contact with
substances such as polishes, oil or chemi-
cals. If the belts get dirty, wash them with
warm water and a detergent or have them
replaced.
WARNING
Safety belts and belt pretensioners that
were in use in a serious collision must be
replaced even if they are not visibly
damaged.
No attempt must be made to repair, or
modify the function of, safety belts.
IB923
Removing the wheel cover
IB925
Tightening sequence, wheel bolts
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204 Car careWhat causes rust?Steel body panels of automobiles are sub-
ject to rusting whenever air and moisture
manage to penetrate the protective finish.
Body panels may rust through if the process
is unchecked. Rusting can occur wherever
water is trapped or where the car’s panels
are continuously damp.
Damage to paint and undercoating by
stones, gravel and minor accidents immedi-
ately exposes metal to air and moisture.
Road salts used for de-icing will collect on
the bottom of the car and promote rusting.
Areas of the country with high humidity have
a greater potential for rust problems, espe-
cially where salt is used on roads or there is
moist sea air. Industrial pollution (fallout)
may also damage paint and promote rust-
ing.
Preventive maintenanceThe following procedures are necessary to
help protect against rusting. Refer also to
the terms and conditions of the Performa-
tion Limited Warranty described in the war-
ranty booklet.
1Wash the car frequently, and wax at
least twice a year. Under adverse con-
ditions, where there is a rapid buildup of
dirt, sand or road salt, wash your car at
least once a week. After extreme expo-
sure to salted snow or slush, evidenced
by a white film on the car, wash the car
immediately. Frequent washing will pre-
vent paint damage from acid rain and
other airborne contaminants such as
tree sap and bird droppings. If any of
these contaminants are noticed on the
car the finish should be washed immedi-
ately.
 Begin washing by rinsing the entire car
with water to loosen and flush off heavy
concentrations of dirt (include the
underbody).
 Sponge the car with a solution of either
a good quality car soap or mild general
purpose (dish washing) detergent and
water.
 Rinse car thoroughly with clean water.
 After washing, check and clear all
drains in doors and body panels.
 Wipe the car dry, preferably using a
chamois.2Clean the underside of the car during
the winter. Use high pressure water to
clean the car’s underside (floor panels,
wheel wells) at least at mid- winter and
in the spring.
3Inspect the car frequently for leaks or
damage, and arrange for needed
repairs promptly. After washing or after
heavy rain, check for leaks. When wash-
ing the car inspect body surfaces for
paint damage. While checking for leaks,
lift the floor mats and check underneath
them. Water can collect in these areas
and remain for prolonged periods. Dry
any wet areas including the floor mats.
Have leaks repaired as soon as possi-
ble.
Use touch-up paint to repair small
scratches or minor finish damage. Areas
where metal is exposed will rust quickly
and MUST be repaired immediately by
touch-up or professional repainting.
Rust must be removed, the bare metal
primed and painted. Major body
damage should be repaired immediately
and new panels or exposed areas
should be undercoated with anti- corro-
sion material.
Repairs of this type are the owner’s
responsibility and are not covered under
warranty.
IB926
Drainage holes in doors
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