2000 Oldsmobile Bravada brake fluid

4-37
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See ªOff
-Road
Drivingº in the Index for information about
driving off
-road.)

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.

Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don't shift down, your brakes could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going down
a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your
engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down. They could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

Stay in your own lane when driving on two
-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.

As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no
-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

4-48

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle (see ªCarbon Monoxideº in the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer's brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for
this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use
steel brake tubing.

4-52 Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The trailer wiring harness is an eight-wire harness
assembly. The harness is stored under the vehicle, on the
driver's side corner frame crossmember. The harness is
fused in the engine compartment fuse block. See ªFuses
and Circuit Breakersº in the Index. The harness does not
have a connector and should be wired by a qualified
electrical technician. The technician can use the
following color code chart when connecting the wiring
harness to your trailer.
Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.

Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid.

Light Green: Back
-up lamps.

Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps.

Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.

White: Ground wire.

Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-5 Filling Your Tank
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-10 Engine Oil
6
-15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-16 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-19 All-Wheel Drive
6
-21 Rear Axle
6
-21 Engine Coolant
6
-25 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-25 Power Steering Fluid
6
-26 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-27 Brakes6
-31 Battery
6
-32 Bulb Replacement
6
-34 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-36 Tires
6
-44 Appearance Care
6
-45 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-47 Care of Safety Belts
6
-48 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-52 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-53 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-53 Service Parts Identification Label
6
-54 Electrical System
6
-60 Replacement Bulbs
6
-61 Capacities and Specifications
6
-62 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-8
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil,
coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other
fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could
be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things
that will burn onto a hot engine.
To open the hood, first pull
the handle located inside
the vehicle on the lower
driver's side of the
instrument panel.Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the
secondary hood release.
Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and
put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may
have a lamp that comes on when you lift the hood.

6-9
When you lift the hood, you'll see these items:
A. Battery
B. Coolant Recovery Tank
C. Engine Oil Dipstick
D. Engine Oil Fill
E. Transmission DipstickF. Power Steering Reservoir
G. Brake Master Cylinder
H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

6-17
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180F to 200F
(82C to 93C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50F
(10C). If it's colder than 50F (10C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
Then follow the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used
only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes if outside temperatures are 50F (10C) or
more. If it's colder than 50F (10C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low
during a cold check, you must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate
reading of the fluid level.Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.

With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).

With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).

Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

6-27
NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer's instructions for
adding water.

Don't mix water with ready
-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze
and damage your washer fluid tank and
other parts of the washer system. Also,
water doesn't clean as well as washer fluid.

Fill your washer fluid tank only
three
-quarters full when it's very cold.
This allows for expansion if freezing occurs,
which could damage the tank if it is
completely full.

Don't use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage
your washer system and paint.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled
with DOT
-3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid
goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake
lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level
goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out
of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake
system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your
brakes won't work well, or won't work at all.