Page 192 of 364

4-37
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See ªOff
-Road
Drivingº in the Index for information about
driving off
-road.)
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don't shift down, your brakes could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going down
a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your
engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down. They could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two
-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no
-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
Page 200 of 364

4-45
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by
your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle.
Your vehicle may be able to tow a trailer. To identify
what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle,
you should read the information in ªWeight of the
Trailerº that appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it's ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
That's the reason for this part. In it are many
time
-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always
use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more
than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
You should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a
lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life of
your transmission.
Page 206 of 364

4-51 Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer.
Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a
trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of
your transmission.
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb
if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Page 207 of 364

4-52 Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The trailer wiring harness is an eight-wire harness
assembly. The harness is stored under the vehicle, on the
driver's side corner frame crossmember. The harness is
fused in the engine compartment fuse block. See ªFuses
and Circuit Breakersº in the Index. The harness does not
have a connector and should be wired by a qualified
electrical technician. The technician can use the
following color code chart when connecting the wiring
harness to your trailer.Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.
Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid.
Light Green: Back
-up lamps.
Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps.
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
White: Ground wire.
Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.
Page 211 of 364

5-4
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in
the procedure. Put an automatic transmission vehicle
in PARK (P) and a manual transmission vehicle
in NEUTRAL.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter, or accessory power outlets, if you have this
option. Turn off all lamps that aren't needed as well
as radios. This will avoid sparks and help to save
both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repair wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.
4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find
the positive (+) and negative (
-) terminals on
each battery.
Page 236 of 364
5-29
A. Retainer
B. Rubber Band
(Some Models)
C. Work Gloves
D. Mat
E. Jack Storage CoverF. Wheel Blocks
G. Hub Cap Removal
Tool (Some Models)
H. Wheel Wrench
I. Jack
J. Jacking Instructions
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº can
help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
Page 237 of 364

5-30
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a
few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do
need to be towed out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in
the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle.
You may need to use them if you're stuck off
-road
and need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
Page 239 of 364

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-5 Filling Your Tank
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-10 Engine Oil
6
-15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-16 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-19 All-Wheel Drive
6
-21 Rear Axle
6
-21 Engine Coolant
6
-25 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-25 Power Steering Fluid
6
-26 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-27 Brakes6
-31 Battery
6
-32 Bulb Replacement
6
-34 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-36 Tires
6
-44 Appearance Care
6
-45 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-47 Care of Safety Belts
6
-48 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-52 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-53 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-53 Service Parts Identification Label
6
-54 Electrical System
6
-60 Replacement Bulbs
6
-61 Capacities and Specifications
6
-62 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts