2000 DODGE DURANGO low oil pressure

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or
deteriorated gaskets1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener,
broken or porous metal
part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear
crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery
plug or cup plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug. Replace cup style plug
5. Leaking intake 5. Replace gaskets
manifold cross-over
gaskets
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION
OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. PCV System
malfunction1. Refer to group 25, Emission Control System for correct
operation
2. Intake manifold 2. Replace plenum
plenum pan gasket pan gasket
failure
3. Defective valve 3. Replace seals
stem seal(s)
4. Worn or broken
piston rings4. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
5. Scuffed pistons/
cylinder walls5. Hone cylinder bores and replace pistons as required
6. Carbon in oil control
ring groove6. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
7. Worn valve guides 6. Repair as
necessary
8. Piston rings fitted 8. Remove rings and
too tightly in grooves check ring end gap
and side clearance.
Replace if necessary
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS, OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPMs, the area of the suspected
leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 145
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
Refer to Engine Specifications for the correct
engine compression pressures.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
9 - 146 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by theplunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 11).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
9 - 148 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
It is important that the vehicle is operating to its
optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy
and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not oper-
ating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis
outlined in this section. The following procedures can
assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.
(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electri-
cal Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.
Fig. 11 Leak-Down Tester
1 ± POINTER
2 ± WEIGHTED ARM
3 ± RAM
4 ± CUP
5 ± HANDLE
6 ± PUSH ROD
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 149
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 17).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 16 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 17 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 152 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine REMOVALÐ4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Support the transmission with a transmission
jack.
(4) Remove stud nuts holding the insulator to the
crossmember (Fig. 39).
(5) Raise rear of transmission SLIGHTLY.
(6) Remove bolts holding the insulator to the insu-
lator bracket (Fig. 39). Remove the insulator.
INSTALLATIONÐ4WD
(1) If the insulator bracket was removed, install
the bracket to the transmission (Fig. 39). Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the bolts holding insulator to insulator
bracket. Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Lower rear of transmission while aligning the
insulator studs into the mounting support bracket.Install stud nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Remove the transmission jack.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Scribe hood hinge outlines on hood. Remove the
hood.
(2) Remove the battery.
(3) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING SYS-
TEM.
(4) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet
hose.
(5) Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses.
(6) Set fan shroud aside.
(7) Remove the vacuum lines.
(8) Remove the distributor cap and wiring.
(9) Disconnect the accelerator linkage.
(10) Remove throttle body.
(11) Perform the Fuel System Pressure release
procedure Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(12) Disconnect the fuel lines.
(13) Disconnect the starter wires.
(14) Disconnect the oil pressure wire.
Fig. 37 Engine Mount Insulator at FrameÐ4WD
Vehicles
1 ± NUT
2 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
3 ± INSULATOR
4 ± NUT
5 ± THROUGH BOLT
6 ± FRAME
7 ± FRONT AXLE
Fig. 38 Rear InsulatorÐ2WD Vehicles
1 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
2 ± THROUGH BOLT
3 ± CROSSMEMBER
4 ± INSULATOR
5 ± TRANSMISSION EXTENSION
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 161
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (15) Discharge the air conditioning system, if
equipped. Refer to HEATING and AIR CONDITION-
ING.
(16) Disconnect the air conditioning hoses.
(17) Disconnect the power steering hoses, if
equipped.
(18) Remove starter motor. Refer to STARTING
SYSTEMS.
(19) Remove the generator.
(20) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(21) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(22) Remove Transmission. Refer to TRANSMIS-
SIONS.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(23) Install an engine lifting fixture.
(24)2WD VEHICLESÐRemove engine front
mount bolts.
(25)4WD VEHICLESÐThe engine and front
driving axle (engine/axle/transmission) are connectedthrough insulators and support brackets. Separate
the engine as follows:
²LEFT SIDEÐRemove 2 bolts attaching
(engine/pinion nose/transmission) bracket to trans-
mission bell housing. Remove 2 bracket to pinion
nose adaptor bolts. Separate engine from insulator by
removing upper nut washer assembly and bolt from
engine support bracket.
²RIGHT SIDEÐRemove 2 bracket to axle (dis-
connect housing) bolts and a bracket to bell housing
bolt. Separate engine from insulator by removing
upper nut washer assembly and bolt from engine
support bracket.
(26) Lower the vehicle.
(27) Install engine assembly on engine repair
stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove engine from the repair stand and posi-
tion in the engine compartment.
(2) Install an engine support fixture.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(4) Install the engine front mounts.
(5) Refer to Group, 21 Transmissions for transmis-
sion installation
(6) Install the inspection plate.
(7) Remove transmission support.
(8) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove engine lifting fixture.
(11) Install the generator.
(12) Install starter motor.
(13) Connect power steering hoses, if equipped.
(14) Connect air conditioning hoses.
(15) Evacuate and charge the air conditioning sys-
tem, if equipped.
(16) Using a new gasket, install throttle body.
Tighten the throttle body bolts to 23 N´m (200 in.
lbs.) torque.
(17) Connect the accelerator linkage.
(18) Connect the starter wires.
(19) Connect the oil pressure wire.
(20) Install the distributor cap and wiring.
(21) Connect the vacuum lines.
(22) Connect the fuel lines.
(23) Install the radiator. Connect the radiator
hoses and heater hoses.
(24) Install fan shroud in position.
(25) Fill cooling system.
(26) Install the air cleaner assembly and air inlet
hose.
(27) Install the battery.
(28) Warm engine and adjust.
(29) Install hood and line up with the scribe
marks.
(30) Road test vehicle.
Fig. 39 Rear InsulatorÐ4WD Vehicles
1 ± AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
2 ± INSULATOR BRACKET
3 ± INSULATOR
4 ± CROSSMEMBER
9 - 162 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)