2000 CHEVROLET S10 tire

4-47 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:

If you have the 2200 L4 (Code 5) engine, use regular
gasoline (without ethanol) when pulling a trailer.
See ªFuelº in the Index.

There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.

Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always
use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more
than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.

Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.

Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear)
when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing
a trailer, it's better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just
drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a
lower gear). See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer,

the weight of the trailer tongue

and the weight on your vehicle's tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

4-49 Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total or gross
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any
cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be
riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you
must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See ªLoading
Your Vehicleº in the Index for more information about
your vehicle's maximum load capacity.
If you're using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight (B). If you're using a weight
-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of
the total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you've loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they aren't, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver's door
edge, above the door latch, or see ªTire Loadingº in
the Index. Then be sure you don't go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the
trailer tongue.

4-51
Your trailer's brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for
this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

5-
5-1
Section 5 Problems on the Road
Here you'll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
5
-2 Hazard Warning Flashers
5
-2 Other Warning Devices
5
-3 Jump Starting
5
-7 Towing Your Vehicle
5
-8 Engine Overheating
5
-9 Cooling System5
-18 Engine Fan Noise
5
-18 If a Tire Goes Flat
5
-19 Changing a Flat Tire
5
-30 Compact Spare Tire (If Equipped)
5
-31 If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

5-18
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and
should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the
clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-19
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire.
To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in
PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to
FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored inside the
plastic jack cover which is behind the front seats, either
on the center of the wall (extended cab) or on the
passenger's side of the wall (regular cab).

5-20
This is the jack cover for the extended cab.
The cover for the regular cab is similar. To remove
it, turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise.
Remove the jack cover.
Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the
wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.
Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your
vehicle. See ªCompact Spare Tireº later in this section
for more information about the compact spare.
NOTICE:
Never remove or store a tire from/to a storage
position under the vehicle while the vehicle is
supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle when
storing it.
Insert the chisel end
of the wheel wrench, on
an angle, into the hole in
the rear bumper.
Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into
the hoist shaft.

5-21
Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the
spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare
tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.
When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the
retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the
wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
NOTICE:
To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the
vehicle before the cable is restored.
Put the spare tire near the flat tire.The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and wheel
wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional hub
cap removal tool.