1999 FIAT PUNTO clock

o«8
Roadside repairs
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown horo will vary according to model. For Instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to aii vehicles-
Preparation
• When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it Is safe to do so. • Park on firm level ground. If possible, and v/etl out of the way of other traffic. • Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
Changing the wheel
A
Warning: Do not change a wheel (n a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a fay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic white changing the wheel - it Is easy to becomo distracted by the job in hand.
If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or P on models with automatic transmission).
• Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of largo stones will do for this. G If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the iack.

I

Tbe spare wheel and tools (Including the jack) are stored
In
the luggage compartment beneath the floor covering. Unscrew the central plastic nut to remove the tool holder.
Slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn Locale the jack under the triangular mark on the 6)11 next to the wheel to be changed, on firm ground

4

Turn the Jack handle clockwise until the wheel Is raised clear of the ground Unscrew the wheel bolts, withdraw the trim and remove the whed
6

Fit Ihe spare wheel on the pins, and screw In the bolts. Lightly lighten tho bolts with the wheelbrace then lowor the vehicle to the ground
Finally...
Securely lighten the wheel bolts in Ihe sequence shown. Note that the wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity.
• Remove l)>e wheel chocks.
• Stow the punctured wheel, jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. • Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low. or It you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to Ihe right pressure.
D When using tho space-saver spare wheel, do not exceed 50 mph (SO kph). C Have the damaged tyre or wheal repaired as soon as possible.

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

Maintenance procedures - petrol models 1A.15
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
29 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then Jack up the rear of Ihe car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge of the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below Ihe minimum thickness given in the Specifications (see illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or
less,
all four shoes must be renewed as a set. 4 At the same time check for signs of brake
Kutti
leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake drum should be removed and cleaned. This
will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 6 Refit the lubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
30 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2A or 2B. Note: Although the norma/ interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (105 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the interval Is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use. ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individuaf owner. That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and
29.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)
renew the belt at 40 000 miles (60 000 km), bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt failure.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
31 Emission control system check
Refer to Chapter 4D. A full check of the emissions control systems must be made by a Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
32 Manual transmission all renewal S
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level and drain plugs are accessed from order
the
engine compartment. If necessary
Jack
ip the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking and vehicle
support). 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/leval And drain plugs, which are on the front and bottom of the transmission (see illustration).
3 Using an Allen key. unscrew the filler/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely drain. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with ihe correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 26 when checking the level. Refit and lighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 32.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from under the vehicle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
33 Coolant renewal
I
Cooling system draining

A


Warning: Walt until the engine Is cold before starting this pro-cedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come In contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Ndver
leave antifreeze lying around In an open container, or fn a puddle In the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but ant/freeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag. and slowly turn the cap anticlockwise to relieve the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to tum the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see illustration). If the hose 33.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain tho coolant

ib.6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal it-
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the OlY owner. As engine oil ages, if becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads lo premature engine wear. 2 Befote starting this procedure, gather ail the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any splits. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this woik. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lilt, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method Is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or If it is at an angle, that Ihe drain plug is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using a 12 mm Allen key (see Illustration) Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint), 4 Allow some time for the oid oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil (tow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug wilh a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit the plug. Tighten the ptug securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container Into position under the oil filter, which Is located on the front right-hand side of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations).
3.3 Using a 12 mm Allen key to loosen the engine oil drain plug
Empty the oil In (he old filter Into Ihe container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old lilter to make sure thai the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully removo it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools (see Illustration), 10 Remove Ihe old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower Ihe vehicle to the ground (If applicable). 11 Remove tho dipstick, then unscrew (he oil liiler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using Ihe correct grade and typo of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a smalt quantity at a time until Ihe level Is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a tew minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes oul when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up.
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump while unscrewing It by hand the lost couple of turns. As the plug releases, move It away sharpty so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs Into the container, not up your sieeve.
13 Switoh off the engine, and wait a few minutes for Ihe oil to settle in the sump once mora. With the new oil circulated and the fitter completely full, recheck the level on Ihe dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose ot the used engine oil safely, wilh reference lo General repair pioceduros In Ihe reference Sections of this manual.
4 Fuel filter water draining ^
1 A water drain screw is provided at the base of the fuel filter. 2 Position a suitable container under ihe fuel filter, Loosen Ihe bleed screw on the lop ol the filter, and open the drain screw at the base of tne filter by turning it anti-clockwise Allow fuel and water to drain until fuel, free from water, emerges from tho drain screw outlet. Close tne drain and bleed screws and tighten them securely 3 Dispose of the drained fuel safely. 4 Start tho onglno. II difficulty is experienced, Weed the fuel system (see Chapter 4C).
3.7a Using an oil fitter removal chain strap 3.7b Removing the oil filter 3.9 Now oil filter tightened by hand

Every 10 000 miles - diesel models ib«9
4 Completely unscrew the filter and pour the remaining contents into the container. Ensure (hat the rubber sealing ring comes away with
me
fitter and unscrew the drain screw from the
bottom
of tho filter (see illustrations). 5 Wipe clean the contact surfaces then smear
a
ittfe fuel on the sealing rubber of the new Nter. 6 Screw on the new filter fully using the hands orty. 7 Prime the fuel system and start the engine wth reference to Chapter 4C. Check for any signs of fuel leakage around the new filter.
13 Air fitter renewal
t Release the retaining clips and withdraw
Ihe
air cleaner cover a little way from the main body. Leave the cover attached to the inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected Inside the air cleaner and wipe the Inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element in position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
14 Pollen filter renewal
t
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) Is located under the engine bulkhead cover pane). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both windscreen wiper arms. 3 Undp tho rubber seal from the relevant end of
the top
of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and Duiout the fasteners securing the bulkhead eovar panel in position. Release the cover panel from the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from Its housing (see lustration).
12.3 Using an olt filter strap to loosen the fuel filter 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter, Clip the filter securely In position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, secunng it >n position with the fasteners, and seat Ihe rubber seal on the bulkhead.
12.4a Removing the fuel filter
15 Steering and §S> suspension check ^
Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of Ihese components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steenng gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the
fplllll iHpjiiisisps fa^aJw a LJgr >
H58B92
12.4b Showing the drain screw components on the bottom of the fuel filter source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement Is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free ptay is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there Is wear In the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint Is worn, the visual movemont will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar. check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.
13.2 Removing the air filter element 14.5 Location of pollen filter 15.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components

Maintenance procedures - diesel models 1B.13
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
Refer to Chapter 40. A full chock of the 26 Emissions control systems emissions control systems must be made by a check Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
26 Manual transmission ,v->> oil renewal K
1 Pak the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filer/level and drain plugs are accessed from
under the
engine compartment, ff necessary tack up Ihe vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). 2
Wipe
clean the area around the filler/! a vol and vain plugs, which are situated on the front and bottom of the transmission (see Illustration}.
3 Using an Allen key, unscrew the fillor/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely dram. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with the correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 22 when checking the level. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 26.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from undor tho vohlcle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

27
Coolant renewal St I
Coo//ng system draining

A


Warning: Wait until the engine is coid before starting this procedure. Do not allow anti-fnue to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around fh an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and
pets are attracted by Its sweet smell,
bat
antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the
pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wail until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see Illustration), If the hose joint has not been disturbed for some time, it will be necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the heator Inlet hose and on the top right hand edge of the radiator (see Illustrations), ff the coolant has
been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then In time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing tho system clean. 6 The radiator should be (lushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contam-ination.
27.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain the coolant 27.3a Location of cooling system bleed plugs (arrowed) 27.3b Bleed screw located on the top right hand edge of the radiator

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.7 Removing the timing belt cover bottom bolt
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom of the cover, this can easily be overlooked (see illustration), 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Set the engine al TDC on No 1 cylinder as described in Section 2. 10 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner, move the lensloner pulley away from the belt and retighten the nut to hold the pulley In the retracted position (see illustration). 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the bell off the sprockets-Note that the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt Is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine ts undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of Its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in sen/ice. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and alt related components, to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting 13 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described In Section 5. 14 When refitting the new belt, make sure that the sprocket liming marks ore still In alignment and fit the belt so that the arrows on the belt point in the direction of engine rotation, and the lines of the belt coincide with the sprocket marks. 15 Engage the timing belt wilh the crankshaft sprocket first, then place it around the coolant pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). Finally slip the bell around the tensioner pulley.
II
4.8 Removing the crankshaft pulley
16 Refease the tensioner nut and Insert the laws of a pair of right-angled clmilp pliers (or similar Into the two holes on the front face of the tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley anticlockwise against the belt until the belt is quite taut. Check lhat the sprocket timing marks have not moved out of alignment. 17 Maintain the effort apptied to the tensioner pulley, then tighten the retaining nut. 18 Turn the crankshaft through two complete turns in the normal direction ot rotation and check that when the centre of (he longest run of the belt Is gripped between finger and thumb It can Just be twisted through 90°. 19 If the belt appears too be too slack or too fight, slacken the tensioner nut and repeat steps 16 to 18 until the correct tension is achieved. Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Flat dealer using specialised checking equipment, at the earliest opportunity. 20 Refit the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, auxiliary drivebelt(s>, spark plugs and the air cleaner/ducting. Adjust the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(sl as described In Chapter 1A. 21 Refit the front wheel and lower the car to the ground.
5 Timing belt tensioner % and sprockets - removal, ^ Inspection and refitting ^
Timing beit tensioner
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described m Chapter 4A or 48, 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebeltfs) as descnbed In Chapter 1A. 4 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket, 5 Unbolt and remove the timing bolt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom ot the cover, this can easily be overlooked.
4.10 Releasing the timing belt tensioner nut
4.15 Fitting the timing belt
6 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder as described In Section 2, 7 Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension* and move the tensioner pulley away from the belt (see Illustration), Keep the belt engaged with the sprockets using a cable-tie or string. 8 Completely unscrew the nut and slide Ihe tensioner off Ihe mounting stud. Inspection 9 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on Its hub by hono. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay is w indication of severe wean the tensioner Is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 10 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut.
S.7 Timing bell tensioner retaining nut (arrowed) - shown with timing belt removed

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
2C*11

C«/ffor>: Where applicable observe the drnctbn of rotation markings on the belt. 12 Tension the timing belt by turning the eccentrically-mounted tensioner clockwise: two ities are provided in the side of the tensioner ftb for this purpose - a pair of sturdy right-ircfed circiip pliers can be used to do this or iftemaiively two bolts and a long screwdriver
may be
used. Fiat use a special tensioner tool
located in
the hotos - this consists of a calibrated rod
and
weight. The weight is positioned 60 mm tog the rod to provide the correct tension to the belt, then the tensioner nul is tightened. Tgttn tho tensioner nut to the specified torque
(see
illustrations) 13
If the
tensioner tool Is not available, test the wsicn by grasping the timing belt between the li^er and thumb midway between the camshaft and injection pump pulleys, and Using il through 90" (see paragraph S).
Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Fiat dealer using the spec/a/ fens/oner tool, at the earliest opportunity. 14 Tum the engine two complete turns clockwise, check that all the timing marks are still aligned then recheck the timing belt tension. If necessary carry out the tensioning procedure again, 15 Refit the components disturbed for access, using the reverse of the removal procedure and bearing In mind the following points: a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, where given. b) Refit the auxiliary dnvebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18.
5 Timing belt tensioner ^ and sprockets - removal, ^ inspection and refitting ^
1 Follow the procedure for removing the timing belt In Section 4, however it is not necessary to completely remove the belt from the timing sprockets provided it is kept fully engaged with them. 2 Unscrew the nut and slide the tensioner off the mounting stud (see illustrations).
Inspection 3 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand. Stiff movemeni or excessive freeplay Is an Indication of severe wean the tensioner is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed, Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and screw on the nut. 5 Refer to Section 4 and refit the timing belt.
Timing belt idler pulley
Removal 6 Remove Ihe timing belt as described In Section 4. 7 Unscrew the mounting bolt and remove the idler pulley from the front of the cylinder block (see illustration). Inspection 8 Wipe the idler clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the idler pulley on Its hub by hand. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay Is an Indication of severe wear; the Idler is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 9 Refit the idler to the front of the block and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 10 Refer to Section 4 and refit the liming belt.
Timing belt tensioner
Removal
5.9 Tightening the idler pulley mounting bolt