1999 FIAT PUNTO length

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.5 Lowering the crankshaft into the crankcase
12.9 Fit tho main bearing caps...
to allow lubricant to circulate. This clearance is impossible to check using feeler blades, however Plastlgauge can be used. This consists of a thin strip of soft plastic that is crushed between the bearing shells and journals when the beanng caps are tightened up. Its width then indicates the size of the clearance gap. 7 Cut off five pieces of Plastlgauge. just shorter than the length of the crankshaft journal. Lay a piece on each journal, in line with its axis (see Illustration). 8 Wipe off the rear surfaces of the new lower half main bearing shells and fit them to the main beanng caps, again ensuring that the locating lugs engage correctly (see illustration). 9 Fit the caps in their correct locations on the bearing saddles, using the manufacturers markings as a guide (see illustration). Ensure lhat Ihey are correctly orientated • the caps should be fitted such that the recesses (or the bearing shell locating lugs are on the same side as those in the bearing saddle. 10 Insert and tighten the bolls until they are
811
correctly torqued (see illustrations). Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate at all whilst ihe Plastlgauge is in place. Progressively unbolt the bearing caps and remove them, taking care not to dislodge the Plastlgauge. 11 The width of the crushed Plastigauge can now be measured, using the scale provided (see illustration). Use the correct scale, as both Imperial and metric are printed. This measurement Indicates the running clearance • compare it with that listed in the Specifications.
21 \ „ 12.7 Lay the Plastigauge on the main bearing journals
t
12.10a ... Insert the bolts...
If tho clearance is outside ihe tolerance, it may be due to dirt or debns trapped under the bearing surface; try cleaning them again and repeat the clearance check. If the results are still unacceptable, re-check Ihe journal diameters and the bearing sizes. Note that if the Plastigauge is thicker at one end. the loumals may be tapered and as such, will require regrinding. 12 When you are satisfied that the clearances are correct, carefully remove the remains of the Plastigauge from the journals and bearings faces. Use a soft, plastic or wooden scraper as anything metallic is likely to damage the surfaces.
Crankshaft • final refitting 13 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase. Wipe off the surfaces of the bearings in the crankcase and the bearing caps. Fit the thrust beanngs using grease to hold them in
12.11 Use the special scale card to determine the main bearing running clearance
shell In its cap
12.10b ... and torque-tighten them
position, Ensure they are seated correctly in the machined recesses, with tho oil grooves facing outwards 14 Liberally coat the bearing shells in the crankcase with dean engine oil (see Illustration). 15 Lower the crankshaft into position in the crankcase. 16 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make sure that the locating lugs on the shells are still engaged with the corresponding recesses in the caps. 17 Fit the main bearing caps in the correct order and orientation. Insert the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them only. 18 Working from the centre bearing cap outwards, tighten the retaining bolts to their specified torque. On petrol engines, tighten all the bolts to the first stage, then angle-tighten them to the Stage 2 anglo (see illustration)
12.14 Lubricate the main bearing shells before final assembly

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
2.8 Undo tho two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover
8 Undo the two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover (see illustration) 9 Release ihe wiring loom support clip from the slot on the side of the resonator lower extension, then lift the resonator off the camshaft cover (see illustrations). Disconnect Ihe crankcase breather hose from the underside of tho resonator and remove the resonator from the engine. 10 Undo the nuts secunng the sides of the air cleaner to the mounting brackets at the front of the engino. 11 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the throttle body. 12 Release the crankcase ventifation hose from the pipe stub on the camshaft cover then remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct assembly from the engine (see illustration).
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal but renew the air cleaner element as described In Chapter
1 A,
if necessary.
Inlet air temperature regulator -liWfii' I
2.9o Release the wiring support clip (arrowed) from the slot on the resonator lower extension ...
the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Next, warm up tho engine and check that the flap moves to admit only cold air from the Inlet duct. If the unit is faulty it must be renewed. 2 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter
1
A. 3 Unscrew tha retaining screw and remove tho regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Rofitting is a reversal of removal.
I
Removal 1 The thermostatically-controlled cold air flop opener, fitted to 8-valve engines, is located in the air cleaner outer cos>ng section. To check lha unit, disconnect the atr inlet duct with the engine cold and use a mirror to check that the flap Is positioned to admit only not air from
2.12 Removing the air cleaner and Inlet air duct assembly
4 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
1242 cc (8-valve) engines
Removal 1 Remove Ihe air cleaner as described In Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuls, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket, 3 Wording under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from tho fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommel and withdraw tho accelerator cable from inside Ihe engine compartment. Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but ad|ust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts} so that there Is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cablo. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttlo cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then securely tighten the cable locknuts.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines
Removal 6 Dlsconnoel the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 7 Remove the resonator, air cleaner and Inlet air duct as described in Section 2.
camshaft cover
8 Undo the engine management ECU mounting bracket bolts, release the ECU wiring loom from Ihe support clips and move tho ECU and wiring loom to one side for access to the accelerator cable. 9 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring clip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet (see illustration). 10 Trace the cable back to its entry point in the engine compartment bulkhead and undo the bulkhead support bracket mounting bolt. 11 Working back along the length of the cable, free It from any retaining clips or ties, noting its correct routing. 12 Working under the instrument panel Inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 13 Release the bulkhead support bracket and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engino compartment. Refitting end adjustment
14 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable as follows before refitting the outer cable spring clip. 16 Ensuring that the throttle cam is fully against its stop, gently pull the cable out of its grommet until all free play Is removed from the inner cable. 16 With the cable held in this position, lit the spring clip to tho first outer cable groove visible in front of the mounting brackot rubber grommet. This should leave a small amount of freeplay in tho inner cable which is necessary to ensure correct throttle operation.
4.9 Accelerator outer cable spring clip (arrowed)

4D*3 Exhaust and emission control systems
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure but fit new gaskets. Tighten the nuts lo the specified torque.
Diesel models Note: On diesel models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds
are located on the rear of the engine
end
share the same securing nuts and gasket. Removal 8 Remove the inlet manifold as described In Part
C
of this Chapter. 10 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up lite front of tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 11 Straighten the tab washers (where fitted), then unscrew and remove the exhaust downpipe retaining nuts. Detach the downpipe from the manifold/turbocharger. Suitably support the downpipe. 12 Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head securing nuts and withdraw the manifold (see Illustration). 13 Separate the turbocharger from the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. 14 Remove the gasket and clean the mating
(aces
of the manifold, cylinder head and down-pipe flange (see illustration). The gasket must
be
renewed when refitting the manifold, Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure but fit a new gasket. Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque and where necessary lock them by bending over
the
tocktabs.
6 Exhaust system - % general information and ^ component renewal
Genera/ Information 1 A three section exhaust system is fitted consisting of a twin-branch front downpipe, a catalytic converter, and a tailpipe with two silencers. The downpipe-to-manifold and downpipe-to-catalytic converter joints are both of flange and gasket type, whereas the remaining joint Is of the sleeve type secured
witn
a clamp ring (see illustration). 2 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings.
Removal 3 Each exhaust section can be removed individually or, alternatively, the complete system can be removed as a unit. Where separation of the rear sleeve Joint is necessary, it may be more practical to remove
the
entire system rather than try and separate
the Joint
In position. 4 To remove the system or part of the system, first jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and nhlcle support), Alternatively position the
vehicle
over an inspection pit or on car ramps.
5.12 Removing the exhaust manifold (diesel engine) Downpipe 5 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. Where applicable on petrol models, refer to Section 4 and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to tha catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 7 Bend back the locktabs (where fitted) then unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger. and lower the downpipe, Recover the gasket. Catalytic converter
8 Support the tailpipe section of the exhaust using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to the catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 10 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the converter from the tailpipe section. 11 Release the mounting rubber and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Tailpipe and silencers 12 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 13 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the catalytic converter from the tailpipe section. 14 Release the tailpipe section from its mounting rubbers and remove from under the vehicle. Complete system 15 Disconnect the downpipe from the ex-haust manifold as described in paragraph 7.
6.1 Exhaust clamp ring securing the tailpipe to the front exhaust system
5.14 Removing the oxhaust manifold gasket (diesel engine) 16 With the aid of an assistant, free the system from all its mounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle. Heatshield 17 The heatshield is secured to the underbody by bolts and Is easily removed once the exhaust system has been removed.
Refitting 18 Each section is refitted by a reverse of the removal sequence, noting the following points. a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have been removed from the flanges and renew ail necessary gaskets. b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of damage or deterioru tion and renew
as
necessary. c) Before refitting the tailpipe joint, smear some exhaust system jointing paste to the joint mating surfaces to ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten the clamp bolt. d) Prior to fully tightening the rear joint damp, ensure that all rubber mountings are correctly /ocafed and that there is adequate clearance between the exhaust system and vehicle underbody.
7 Catalytic converter -general information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance In itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.
Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrot In a car equipped with a catalytic converter - Ihe lead will coat the precious metals, redudng their converting efficiency
and
will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's schedule. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little
as
possible) until the fault is cured.

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

6*2 Clutch
3 Clutch cable -removal and refitting
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with a cabfe-opemted dutch
release mechanism.
Removal 1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter SA. If necessary, also remove the Inlet air ducting for Improved access as described In the relevant part of Chapter 4. 2 Unscrew the adjustment locknut and adjuster nut from the end of the cable fitting, (hen release the inner and outer cables from the transmission housing. Note the position of the damper biock. 3 Working Inside the vehicle, unhook the inner cable from the top of the clutch pedaL 4 Returning to the engine compartment, unscrew the nuts securing the outer cable to the bulkhead, then withdraw the cable assembly from the engine compartment. Refitting 5 Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to the cable end fittings, then pass the cable through the bulkhead. Refit and tighten the nuts. 6 Inside the vehicle hook the inner cable onto the top of the clutch pedal. 7 in the engine compartment, attach the outer cable to the transmission housing and refit the damper block and nuts lo Ihe inner cable end. fi Adjust the cable as described in Section 2. 9 Refit the air ducting and battery with reference to Chapters 4 and 5A
4 Clutch hydraulic system -
i
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with the hydraulicalty-operated clutch release mechanism.

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid Is poisonous; thoroughly wash off spllfs from bare skin without delay. Seek Immediate medical advice If any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable and may ignite when brought into contact with hot components; when servicing any hydraulic system, It is safest to assume that the fluid IS Inflammable, and to take precautions against the risk of fire as though ft were petrof that was being handled. Hydraulic fluid Is an effective paint stripper and will also attack many plastics. If spillage occurs onto painted bodywork or fittings, ft should be washed off Immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. It Is also hygroscopic - It can absorb moisture from the air, which then renders it useless. Old fluid may have
suffered contamination, and should never be re-used. When topping-up or renewing tho fluid, always use tha recommended grade, and ensure that It comes from a new seated container. General information 1 Whenever the clutch hydraulic lines are disconnected for service or repair, a certain amount of air will enter the system. The presence of air In any hydraulic system will Introduce a degree of elasticity, and in the clutch system this will translate into poor pedal feel and reduced travel, leading to inefficient gear changes and even clutch system failure. For this reason, the hydraulic lines must be sealed using hose clamps before any work la carried out and then on completion, topped up and bled to remove any air bubbles. 2 To seal off Ihe hydraulic supply to tha clutch slave cylinder, fit a proprietary brake hose clamp to the flexible section of the hose located over the transmission and tighten it securely. It will be necessary to remove the battery and battery tray to access the hose. 3 The most effective way of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is to use a pressure brake bleeding kit. These are readily available in motor accessories shops and are extremely effective: the following sub-section describes bleeding the clutch system using such a kit. The alternative method is to bleed the system by depressing tho clutch pedal • refer to Chapter 9. Section 11, for details of this method.
Bleeding 4 Remove the protective cap from Ihe bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Access can be improved by removing the battery and tray with reference to Chapter 5A. 5 Fit a ring spanner over the bleed nipple head, but do not slacken it at this point. Connect a length of dear plastic hose over the nipple and insert the other end into a clean container. Pour hydraulic fluid into the container, such that the end of the hose is covered. 6 Following the manufacturer's instructions, pour hydraulic fluid into the bleeding kit vessel 7 Unscrew the vehicle's fluid reservoir cap, then connect Ihe bleeding kit fluid supply hose to the reservoir. 8 Connect the pressure hose to a supply of compressed air - a spare tyre is a convenient source. Caution: Check that the pressure In the tyre does not exceed the maximum supply pressure quoted by the kit manufacturer, let soma sir escape to reduce the pressure, if necessary. Gently open the air valve and allow the air and fluid pressures to equalise. Check that there ere no teaks before proceeding. 9 Using the spanner, slacken the bleed pipe nipple until fluid and air bubbles can be seen to flow through the tube, into the container.
Maintain a steady flow until the emerging fluid la free of air bubbles; keep a watchful eye on the level of fluid in the bleeding kit vessel and the vehicle's fluid reservoir • if it Is allowed to drop too low, air may be forced into the system, defeating the object of the exercise. To refill the vessel, turn off the compressed air supply, remove the lid and pour In en appropriate quantity of clean fluid from a new container - do not re-use the fluid collected in the receiving container. Repeat as necessary until the ejected fluid is bubble-free. 10 On completion, pump the olutch pedal several times to assess its feel and travel. If firm, constant pedal resistance is not felt throughout the pedal stroke, it i6 probable that air Is still present in the system - repeat the bleeding procedure untii the pedal feel is restored. 11 Depressurise the bleeding kit and remove it from the vehicle. At this point, the fluid reservoir may be over-full; the excess should be removed using a clean pipette to reduce the level to the MAX mark. 12 Tighten the bleed pipe nipple using the spanner and remove the receiving container. Refit the protective cap. 13 On completion, assess the feel of the clutch pedal; if it exhibits any sponginess or looseness, further bleeding may be required. 14 Where removed, refit the battery and tray. 15 Finally, road test the vehicle and check the operation of the clutch system whilst changing up and down through the gsar9. whilst pulling away from a standstill and from a hill start.
5 Clutch master cylinder - & removal
and
refitting 5 S Note: This procedure applies to models
fitted
with the hydraulically-operated dutch
release
mechanism. Note: Refer to the warning at Ihe beginning
of
Section 4 regarding the hazards of
working
with hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer lo Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 For improved access on petrol engine models, remove the alternator as described In Chapter 5A. 4 Fit a brake hose clamp to the hose between the hydraulic fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. Alternatively syphon ail the fluid from the reservoir. 5 Disconnect the fluid supply hose at the master cylinder, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the cylinder outlet. Be prepared for some fluid loss by placing some rags beneath the master cylinder.

6*4 Clutch
7.17 Using a clutch friction plate centralising toot 11 Examine the machined beanng surfaces of the pressure plate and of the flywheel; they should be clean, completely flat, and free from scratches or scoring. If either is discoloured from excessive heat, or shows signs of cracks, it should be renewed - although minor damage of this nature can sometimes be polished away using emery paper 12 Check that the release bearing contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of noise or roughness. Also check that the surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or scoring. If there Is any doubt about its condition, the bearing must be renewed.
Refitting 13 On reassembly, onsure that the bearing surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate are completely clean, smoolh. and tree from oil or grease. Use solvent to remove any protective grease from new components. 14 Fit the friction plate so that its spring hub assembly faces away from the flywheel; there may also be a marking showing which way round the plate Is to be refitted. 15 Refit the pressure plate assembly, aligning the marks made on dismantling (If the original pressure plate Is re-used), and locating the pressure plate on Its three
locating dowels. Fit the pressure plate bolts, but tighten them only finger-tight, so thai the friction plate can skill be moved. 16 The friction plate must now be centralised, so that when the transmission Is refitted, Its Input shaft will pass through the splines at the centre of the friction plate. 17 Centralisation can be achieved by passing a screwdriver or other long bar through the friction plate and into the holo in the crankshaft; the friction plate can then be moved around until it is centred on the crankshaft hole. Alternatively, a clutch-aligning tool can be used to eliminate the guesswork; these can be obtained from most accessory shops (see illustration). A home-made aligning tool can be fabricated from a length of metal rod or wooden dowel which fits closely Inside the crankshaft hole, and has insulating tape wound around it to match Ihe diameter of the friction plate splined hole. 18 When the friction plate is centralised, tighten tho pressure plate bolts evenly and In a diagonal sequence to the specified torque setting. 19 Apply a Ihin smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the splines of the friction plate and the transmission input shaft, and also to the release bearing bore and release fork shaft. 20 Refit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
8 Clutch release mechanism - & removal, inspection J and refitting ^
Removal 1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is to be removed from the car and separated lor major overhaul (see Chapter 2D), the clutch release mechanism can be reached by removing the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
2 Unhook the release bearing from the fork and slide it off Ihe guide tubo (see illustration). 3 Using circlip pliers extract the circllp Irom the top of the release fork shaft. 4 Note the position of the arm then slide it
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the splines. 5 Using a small drift, tap out the upper release shaft bush from the transmission casing (see illustration). 6 Lift the release shaft from Ihe lower bush then remove it Irom inside Ihe transmission casing.
7 Extract the lower bush from 1he casing.
inspection 8 Check (he release mechanism, renewing any worn or damaged parts. Carofully checH all bearing surfaces and points of contact. 9 When checking the release bearing ilsell. note that it Is often considered worthwhile to renew it as a matter of course. Check thai the contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of roughness, and that Ihe surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or sconng. If there is any doubt about Its condition, the bearing must be renewed, Refitting 10 Apply a smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the shaft pivot bushes and the contact surfaces of the release fork. 11 Tap the lower bush into the casing and refit the release fork and shaft. 12 Slide the upper bush down the shaft and tap it into the casing making sure lhat the ridge engages with the cut-out. then slide the arm on the splines the correct way round. 13 Refit the circlip in the shaft groove. 14 Slide the release bearing onto the guide tube and engage it with the fork. 15 Refil the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
8.2 Removing the release bearing from the fork and guide lube 8.5 Clutch release shaft (1) and upper shaft bush (2)