
I
8*4 Driveshafts
3.3 Using pair of circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the driveshaft in place
Turbo diesel models 4 Mark the relationship between the joint and the driveshaft using a scriber or a dab of paint. Attach a slide hammer to the dnveshaft nut thread. 5 Draw the joint off the driveshaft using the slide hammer, Use just enough effort to overcome the tension of the internal circlip.
Inboard CV joint removal All models except turbo dieseis 6 Al the inboard end of the driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch to mark the relationship between Ihe shaft and |olnt. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then using a three-legged puller if required, draw Ihe tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft. Ensure that the legs of Ihe puller bear upon the cast centre section of the joint, not the roller beanngs (see illustration) Turbo diesel models 7 Al the inboard end of Ihe driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch lo mark the relationship between the shaft and joint. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then carefully slide the CV joint from the end ot the shaft. Take great care to prevenl the
cage and bail bearings from falling out • secure the joint components together with wire or a nylon cable-tie. 8 Remove the washer then slide the flange from the end of the shaft.
Inspection 9 Slide both rubber gaiters off the driveshaft and discard them: It is recommended that new ones are fitted on reassembly as a matter of course. Recover the flexible washers (where fitted), making a note of their fitted positions, to aid correct refitting later. 10 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft splines, and CV joint components with paraffin or a suitable solvent, taking care not to destroy any alignment marks made during removal. 11 Examine Ihe CV joint components for wear and damage: in particular, check the balls and corresponding grooves for pitting and corrosion. If evidence of wear Is visible, then the joint must be renewed. Note that if the outboard CV joint Is to be renewed on turbo diesel models, it must be matched to the driveshaft using the colour-coded paint markings. 12 Where applicable, examine the tripod joint components for wear. Check thai the three rollers are free lo rotate without resistance and are not worn, damaged or corroded. The rollers are supported by arrays of needle bearings: wear or damage will show up as play In the rollers and/or roughness in rotation. If wear is discovered, the tnpod joint must be renewed. 13 Fit a new rubber gaiter (and where applicable, flexible washer) to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure it In place on the shaft with a clip (see illustration).
Inboard CV joint - refitting
All models except turbo dieseis 14 Using Ihe alignment marks made during removal, fit the tripod joint onto the splines of the driveshaft. Tap It Into position using a soft faced mallet. To ensure that the tripod Joint rollers and driveshaft splines are not damaged, use a socket with an internal diameter slightly larger than I hat of the driveshafl as a drift. Refit the circlip. 15 Slide the gaiter over tho tripod joint and pack the gaiter with grease from the service kit.
3.6 Draw the tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft 3.13 FH s new rubber gaiter to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure It in place with a clip
Caution: Do not allow grease to come
into
contact with vehicles paintwork, es discolouring may rasutt. Turbo diesel models 16 Slide the flange and washer onto the end of the shaft, then fit the joint Into position on the driveshaft splines, using the alignment marks made during removal. Fit the circlip. ' 17 Pack the gaiter with grease from His service kit, then slide the gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel ail the air from the joint, then secure the gaiter over the joint with a new clip. Caution: Do not allow grease to come
Into
contact with the vehicle's paintwork, as discolouring may result.
Outboard CV joint - refitting 18 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the outboard end of the driveshaft and secure it place with a dp, 19 Pack the CV joint with grease from Ihe service kit, pushing It into the ball grooves and expelling any air that may be trapped underneath. 20 Lubricate the splines of the drive shaft with a smear of grease, then whilst splaying the circlip open with a pair ot circlip pile*, insert the driveshaft into CV joint, observing the alignment marks made during removal. Note: On turbo diesel models, the circlip snaps into the CV Joint groove as Ifte driveshaft is inserted - no circlip pliers are required. Ensure that the circlip snaps securely Into place: pull on the shaft to check that it is held firmly In position. 21 Pack additional grease Into the joint to displace any air pockets, then slide the rubber gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip ol the gaiter to expel all the air from Ihe joint, then secure it In place with a clip. 22 Refit the driveshaft (see Section 2).
4 Intermediate driveshaft - % removal and refitting J;
Note 1: This procedure applies only to turbo diesel engined models. Note 2: The intermediate shaft and
bearing
are not available as separate spares and cac only be renewed as a comptefe assembly.
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of Ihe car and support It securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheei(s). 2 Unbolt the inboard end of the right*hand driveshaft from the intermediate shaft
flange, as
described In Section 2. Suspend the dis-connected end of the driveshaft from a conven-ient point on the subframe, using wire or a cable-tie. to avoid straining the joint and gaiter. 3 Drain the oil from the transmission, with reference to Chapter 1B.

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK
A
Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

Body electrical systems 12*3
3.4 The auxiliary fusebox, located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel auxiliary fusebox, which is located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel (see Illustration). 5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 6 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 7 Using the plastic tool clipped to the main fusebox lid, pull the fuse from its location. 8 Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating (fuse ratings are specified on the inside of the fusebox cover flap). Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are colour-coded as follows. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 5A Red 10A Blue 15A Yellow 20A Clear or White 25A Green 30A 11 The radio/cassette player fuse is located In the rear of the unit, and can be accessed after removing the radio/cassette player -refer to Section 12for greater detail.
Relays 12 A relay is an electncally-operated switch, which Is used for the following reasons: 4 A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)
A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 13 The main and optional equipment relays are located in the main and auxiliary toseboxes (see Fuses). A number of additional relays may be fitted, depending on model and specification. These are generally mounted
3.5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire adjacent lo the component being controlled; e.g. the radiator cooling fan relay(s) are mounted on a bracket next the cooling fan itself. 14 The direction Indicator/hazard warning flasher unit is mounted on the underside of the steering column slalk switch unit. It can be accessed by removing the steering column lower shroud panel (see illustration). 15 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised, if this is Ihe case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 16 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.
4 Buibs (exterior lights) -renewal
General 1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note the following points:
3.14 Removing the direction indlcator/ha2ard warning flasher unit
a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. b) Remember that, if the circuit has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) A/ways check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and its live contacts) and earth. Clean off
any
corrosion or dirt before fitting a nevt bulb. d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts) bear firmly against the bulb contact. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating (see Specifications), and that it is completely clean before fitting it; this applies particularly to headlight/foglight bulbs (see following
0 Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs) • incorrect fitting will cause the filaments to illuminate In the wrong sequence.
Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Ensure that the headlights are turned off at the stalk switch. Models with single reflector 3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit (see Illustration).
4.3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb 4.4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit