1999 FIAT PUNTO power steering

Component location - petrol models 1A.5
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (16-valve) engine model
1
Engine
olt filler
cap
2
Engine
oil dipstick 3
Brake
fluid
reservoir
4
Power
steering fluid reservoir 5
Engine
wiring connector cover 6
Windscreen
washer
fluid
reservoir 7 Battery 8
Coolant
expansion
tank
9 Air cleaner
cover
10 Resonator 11 ECU
1
Oil filter
2
Sump
drain plug 3
Transmission
drain plug A
Electric
cooling Ian unit 5
Left-hand driveshaft
6
Intermediate shaft
7
Right-hand driveshaft
B
Front
suspension lower arms 9
Front
anti-roll
bar
10
Exhaust
downpipe 11
Front
brake calipers (2
Rear engine
mounting IS Radiator bottom hose
Front underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

ia.io Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support}. 4 Remove the nght-hand front wheel. 5 Remove the inner cover from under the right-hand wheeiarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 0 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket boll, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the relevant belt should be renewed. 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check Ihe drivebeit tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebeit Note: On certain models with power steering but without air conditioning, it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebeit ffrst, as described below. 8 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove the belt guard from the alternator. 9 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebeit. 10 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sensor from Ihe front of the engine (refer to Chapter 4A. Section 5, if necessary). 11 Remove the drivebeit from the engine. 12 When renewing a drivebeit. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the two pulleys then swivel the alternator outwaids to take up any slack in the betL Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebeit 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting boit until all the tension is removed from the drivebeit. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pultey guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebeit off (he pulleys. 18 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Air conditioning compressor drivebeit 17 Remove the alternator and power steering pump dnvebelts as described previously. 18 Slacken the bolts securing the compressor to the mounting bracket. 19 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until alt the tension is removed from the drivebeit, then slip the belt off the pulleys. 20 Ensuring lhat the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
15.7 Checking a valve clearance with a feeler blade
Tensioning 21 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which Is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Fiat recommend use of their special tensioning tool however the fallowing procedure will set the tension correctly. 22 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust the alternator drivebeit, slightly tighten the adjustment bolt then swivel the alternator outwards until tne beft tension Is correct. Fully tighten the adjustment bolt followed by the pivot bolt then refit the rpm sensor. 23 On models with power steering and/or air conditioning, fit the relevant drivebeit over the pulleys then turn the adjusting bolt until the tension is correct. Secure the adjusting bolt by tightening Ihe locknut, then tighten the remaining mounting bolts. Refit any remaining dnvebelts and all the components removed. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal,
14 Clutch adjustment check
Refer to Chapter 8. Section 2.
15.11 Using a modified C-spanner and e screwdriver to remove a shim
15 Valve clearance check ^ and adjustment S
Note: The following procedure Is not applicable to 1242 cc,
16-vatve
engines which utilise self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. 1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear has become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be accurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right* hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front road wheel. 3 Remove all spark plugs as described In Section 19. 4 Remove the camshaft cover as described In Chapter 2A. 5 Each valve clearance must be checked when the high point of the cam lobe is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances In the firing order 1-3-4-2. No
1
cylinder being at the timing bell end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between the heel of the cam and the cam follower shim of the first valve (see illustration). II necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the valve clearance for this particular valve. 8 Tum the engine, check the second valve clearance and record it. 9 Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves, recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for Inlet and exhaust valves differs • see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the engine, the valve sequence is: tnlet 2-4-5-7 Exhaust 7-3-6-$ 11 Where clearances are incorrect, the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam Is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to be depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job, otherwise you will have to make up a forked (ever to locate on the rim of the cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim {see illustration). 12 Once the shim is extracted, establish its thickness and change It for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded

1B.2
Servicing specifications - diesel models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) Non-turbo diesei engine 4.95 litres Turbo diesel engine 4.84 litres Cooling system 7.2 litres
Manual transmission Non-turbo diesel engine 2.37 litres Turbo diesei engine t .98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 litres
Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Without headlight washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Oil fitter Engine Idle speed: Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine Auxiliary drivebelt tension ...... Valve clearances • engine cold: Inlet Exhaust
Champion C112
8l0«40rpm 900 ± 20 rpm 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys
0.30 mm * 0.05 mm 0.35 mm ± 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: 50% antifreeze Protection down to-35°C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufactuivr for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Air filter element: Non-turbo diesel engine (with Lucas/CAV Injection) Champion U611 Turbo diesel engine (with Bosch Injection) Champion U579 Fuel filter Champion L120
Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 1-5 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Tyre pressures See end of Weekly checks on page 0*18
Torque wrench settings Fuel filter bracket to body ..... « Fuel filter to bracket i........ Manual transmission oil drain plug: Non-turbo diesel engine: Stage 1 Stage 2 Turbo diesel engine Manual transmission oil filler plug Roadwheel bolts
Nm Ibfft 18 13 24 18
12 9 Angle-tighten a further 180® 46 34 46 34

ib-4 Component location - diesel models
Underbonnet view - turbo diesel model
1 Engine oil filter
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Oil
tilter
4 Brake/clutch fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Power steering pump 7 Coolant expansion
tank
8 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 9 Front suspension strut upper mounting 10 Fuel filter/heater
housing
11
Fuel
injection pump 12 Battery 13 Power steering fluid reservoir
Front underbody view - turbo diesel model
1 Oil
fitter
2 Sump drain plug 3 Transmission drain plug 4 Electric cooling fan unit 5 Left-hand
driveshaft
6 Intermediate
shaft
7 Bight-hand
driveshaft
8 Front suspension lower arms 9 Front anti-roll
bar
10 Exhaust downpipe 11 Front brake calipers 12
Rear
engine mounting 13 Radiator bottom hose
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

Every 10 000 miles - diesel models ib«9
4 Completely unscrew the filter and pour the remaining contents into the container. Ensure (hat the rubber sealing ring comes away with
me
fitter and unscrew the drain screw from the
bottom
of tho filter (see illustrations). 5 Wipe clean the contact surfaces then smear
a
ittfe fuel on the sealing rubber of the new Nter. 6 Screw on the new filter fully using the hands orty. 7 Prime the fuel system and start the engine wth reference to Chapter 4C. Check for any signs of fuel leakage around the new filter.
13 Air fitter renewal
t Release the retaining clips and withdraw
Ihe
air cleaner cover a little way from the main body. Leave the cover attached to the inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected Inside the air cleaner and wipe the Inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element in position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
14 Pollen filter renewal
t
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) Is located under the engine bulkhead cover pane). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both windscreen wiper arms. 3 Undp tho rubber seal from the relevant end of
the top
of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and Duiout the fasteners securing the bulkhead eovar panel in position. Release the cover panel from the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from Its housing (see lustration).
12.3 Using an olt filter strap to loosen the fuel filter 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter, Clip the filter securely In position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, secunng it >n position with the fasteners, and seat Ihe rubber seal on the bulkhead.
12.4a Removing the fuel filter
15 Steering and §S> suspension check ^
Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of Ihese components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steenng gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the
fplllll iHpjiiisisps fa^aJw a LJgr >
H58B92
12.4b Showing the drain screw components on the bottom of the fuel filter source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement Is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free ptay is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there Is wear In the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint Is worn, the visual movemont will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar. check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.
13.2 Removing the air filter element 14.5 Location of pollen filter 15.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components