1999 FIAT PUNTO maintenance

1B»1
Chapter
1
Part B:
Routine maintenance & servicing - diesel models
Contents
Air filter renewal 13 Auxiliary drivebelt(s) check and renewal 16 Brake fluid renewal 2d Brake warning lamp operation check 5 Clutch adjustment check 17 Coolant renewal 27 Drtv«shaft gaiter check 10 Emissions control systems check 25
Engage
oil and filter renewal 3 Exhaust system check 9 Front brake pad check 6
Fuel
fitter renewal 12 Fuel Filter water draining 4 Headlight beam adjustment 20
Hinge and lock lubrication 19 Hose and fluid leak check 6 Idle speed check and adjustmenl 11 Introduction ... 1 Manual transmission oil level check 22 Manual transmission oil renewal - 26 Pollen filter renewal 14 Rear brake shoe check 23 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 21 Steering and suspension check 15 Timing belt renewal 24 Underbody sealant check 7 Valve clearance check and adjustment 16
^m
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, sutable for % Fairly easy, suitable FaHycifficult, i'. Difficult, suitable fa Very difficult, novice with irttte % for beginner with suitable for competent experienced DIY
1
suitable for expert DIY * or professional jQ experience some experience DIY mechanic mechanic 1
suitable for expert DIY * or professional jQ

Maintenance schedule - diesel models 1B.3
The mamtenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you. reI ihe dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These
are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily.
ff you wish to keep your vehicle In peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency.
performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle Is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly O Refer to Weekly checks
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or

6
months - whichever comes first • Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) P Drain any water from the fuel filter (Section 4)
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or

12
months - whichever comes first ill addition lo tho Items listed above, cany out the following; D Check the operation of the brake warning lamp J (Section 5) Check the front brake pads for wear (Section 6) :-G Check the underbody and sealant for damage j" (Section 7) n Hose and fluid leak check (Section 8) 0 Check the condition of the exhaust system and its 1 mountings (Section 9) -D Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters ", (Section 10) O Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 11) ;0 Renew (he fuel filter (Section 12) J] Renew the air filter element (Section 13) L) Renew the pollen filter (Section 14) •• Check the steering and suspension components • for condition and security (Section 15)
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or

2
years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: (P Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the auxiliary drlvebeltfs) (Section 16) '• Check the freeplay and height of the clutch pedal " (Section 17) D Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances (Section 18) Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 19) • Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 20) O Cany out a road test (Section 21)
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check and if necessary top-up the manual transmission oil level (Section 22)
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 23) • Renew the timing belt (Section 24)'
•Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (ids 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the belt Is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, le. mainly short Journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual bait renewal interval Is therefore very much up to the Individual owner, but bear in mind that sevefe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or
6 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the condition and operation of the emission control system components (Section 25)
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) • Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 26)
Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage) • Renew the engine coolant (Section 27) • Renew the brake fluid (Section 28)

Component location - diesel models ib-s
Rear underbody view - turbo diesel model
1
Fuel tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3 Fear axle 4 Coil springs 5
Rear anti-roll bar
€
Handbrake cables
7
Rear brake pressure regulating valve
8
Rear shock
absorber
lower
mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter Is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vohicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service internals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will ctecover that many of the procedures can. and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursetf before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out. then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If, from the time Ihe vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear Items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine wifl be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased, in such cases, additions! work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test {refer to Chapter 2C} will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious Internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a wa3te of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work Is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to Improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a,I Clean, Inspect and test the battery (See Weekly checks). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Drain the water from the fuel filter (Section 4) d) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary dnvebeft(s) (Section 16). e) Check the condition of the air fitter, and renew if necessary (Section 13). f) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 8). g) Check the engine idle speed setting {Section 11). h) Check the exhaust gas emissions (Section 25). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:
Secondary operations All items listed under Pnmary operations, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A, Section 4). b) Renew the fuel filter (Section 12) and check the fuel system (see Chapter 4Q.

ib.6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal it-
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the OlY owner. As engine oil ages, if becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads lo premature engine wear. 2 Befote starting this procedure, gather ail the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any splits. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this woik. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lilt, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method Is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or If it is at an angle, that Ihe drain plug is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using a 12 mm Allen key (see Illustration) Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint), 4 Allow some time for the oid oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil (tow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug wilh a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit the plug. Tighten the ptug securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container Into position under the oil filter, which Is located on the front right-hand side of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations).
3.3 Using a 12 mm Allen key to loosen the engine oil drain plug
Empty the oil In (he old filter Into Ihe container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old lilter to make sure thai the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully removo it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools (see Illustration), 10 Remove Ihe old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower Ihe vehicle to the ground (If applicable). 11 Remove tho dipstick, then unscrew (he oil liiler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using Ihe correct grade and typo of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a smalt quantity at a time until Ihe level Is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a tew minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes oul when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up.
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump while unscrewing It by hand the lost couple of turns. As the plug releases, move It away sharpty so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs Into the container, not up your sieeve.
13 Switoh off the engine, and wait a few minutes for Ihe oil to settle in the sump once mora. With the new oil circulated and the fitter completely full, recheck the level on Ihe dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose ot the used engine oil safely, wilh reference lo General repair pioceduros In Ihe reference Sections of this manual.
4 Fuel filter water draining ^
1 A water drain screw is provided at the base of the fuel filter. 2 Position a suitable container under ihe fuel filter, Loosen Ihe bleed screw on the lop ol the filter, and open the drain screw at the base of tne filter by turning it anti-clockwise Allow fuel and water to drain until fuel, free from water, emerges from tho drain screw outlet. Close tne drain and bleed screws and tighten them securely 3 Dispose of the drained fuel safely. 4 Start tho onglno. II difficulty is experienced, Weed the fuel system (see Chapter 4C).
3.7a Using an oil fitter removal chain strap 3.7b Removing the oil filter 3.9 Now oil filter tightened by hand

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

Maintenance procedures - diesel models 1B.13
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
Refer to Chapter 40. A full chock of the 26 Emissions control systems emissions control systems must be made by a check Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
26 Manual transmission ,v->> oil renewal K
1 Pak the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filer/level and drain plugs are accessed from
under the
engine compartment, ff necessary tack up Ihe vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). 2
Wipe
clean the area around the filler/! a vol and vain plugs, which are situated on the front and bottom of the transmission (see Illustration}.
3 Using an Allen key, unscrew the fillor/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely dram. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with the correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 22 when checking the level. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 26.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from undor tho vohlcle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

27
Coolant renewal St I
Coo//ng system draining

A


Warning: Wait until the engine is coid before starting this procedure. Do not allow anti-fnue to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around fh an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and
pets are attracted by Its sweet smell,
bat
antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the
pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wail until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see Illustration), If the hose joint has not been disturbed for some time, it will be necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the heator Inlet hose and on the top right hand edge of the radiator (see Illustrations), ff the coolant has
been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then In time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing tho system clean. 6 The radiator should be (lushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contam-ination.
27.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain the coolant 27.3a Location of cooling system bleed plugs (arrowed) 27.3b Bleed screw located on the top right hand edge of the radiator

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 The luel system referred to In this Section is defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel litter, the throttle body and pressure regulator components, and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines between these components. All ihese contain fuel which will be under pressure while the engine Is running and/or while tha Ignition is switched on. The pressure will remain for some time after tho ignition has been switched off, and must be relieved before any of these components are disturbed (or servicing work. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/sconnecf/ngr the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 3 Place a container beneath the relevant connection/union to be disconnected, and have a large rag ready to soak up any escaping fuel not being caught by the container. 4 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut (as applicable) to avoid a sudden release of pressure, and wrap tho rag around the connection to catch any fuel spray which may be expelled. Once the pressure is released, disconnect the fuel line, and Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent the entry of dirt Into the fuel system.
9 Inlet manifold -removal and refitting ^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal 1 Remove the throttle body assembly as described in Section 5. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 3 Disconnect the winng connector from the coolanl temperature sensor (situated on the left-hand sidB of the manifold). 4 Undo the bolt securing the accelerator cable mounting bracket to the manifold, and position it clear of the manifold. 5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect tha coolant hose from the rear of the manifold. 6 Disconnect the brake vacuum hose. 7 Undo the seven manifold retaining nuts and
10.2 The diagnostic connector la located behind the ECU bolts, and remove (he manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard It; a new one should be used on refitting.
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces are clean and dry, and fit a nev/ manifold gasket. Refit the manifold and securely tighten Its retaining nuts. b) Ensure that all relevant hoses are reconnected fo their original positions and are securely held (where necessary) by the retaining clips. c) Refit the throttle body assembly with reference to Section S. d) On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
correctly adjusted, and that the engine breather hoses are clear and undamaged. 2 If these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated In the engine management circuit, into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged; the connector is situated behind the ECU (see Illustration). The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply, alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually, which is a time-consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU.
Adjustments 3 As mentioned above, the idle speed and mixture adjustment are all monitored and controlled by the ECU, and are not adjustable Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and ihe idle speed. However, If thes* are found lo be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Flat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
11 Unleaded petrol -general Information and usage
10 Fuel injection system - & testing and adjustment S
Testing 1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system, first ensure that all the system winng connectors are securely connected and free of corrosion. Then ensure that the fault Is not due to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air cleanor fitter element is clean, the spark plugs are In good condition and correctly gapped, that tho valve clearances are
Note: The information given in this Chapter
is
correct at the time of writing. If updated Information is thought to be required, check with a Fiat dealer. If travelling abroad, consult one of the motonng organisations (or a similar authority) for advice on the fuel available. 1 All petrol models are fitted with a catalytic converter and must be run on unleaded fuel only - the fuel recommended by Flat is given In the Specifications of this Chapter. Under no circumstances should leaded fuei (UK 4-slar) be used, as this may damage the converter. 2 Super unleaded petrol (98 octane) can also be used in all models if wished, though there is no advantage in doing so.