1999 FIAT PUNTO ignition

ia«6 Component location - petrol models
Rear underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)
1 Fuel
tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3
Rear axle
4 Coll
springs
5
Rear
anti-mil
bar
6
Handbrake cables
T
Rear brake pressure
regulating
valve
S
Rear
shock absorber lower mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle (or safety, eoonomy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks. ad}ustments, component renewal and other helpful Items are included. Refer to the accompanying Illustrations of the engine compartment and tho underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mlleaget/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result m a long and reliable service life. This Is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some Items but not others at the specified service Intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can, and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle Is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursell before tne
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If. from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 II is possible that there will be times when the engine rs running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely If a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out. outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to bo carried out. II, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a) Cloan, inspect and test the battery
(See
Weekly checks), b) Check alt the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebeft($) (Section 13). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 19). e) Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 20). 0 Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 18). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 17). h) Check tho condition of ell hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Sect/on 7). i) Check theexhaust
gas emissions (Section 11).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations;
Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following; e) Check the charging system (Chapter 5K Section 4). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 58). c) Check tho fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter
4).
d) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 20)

Maintenance procedures - petrol models ia./
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ja*
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all Ihe necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as It
will
drain better, and more built-up sludge will
be
removed with it. Tske care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants end other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly Improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the
vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug Is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using an Allen key. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug
completely (see Haynes Hint). 4 Allow some time for the old oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit
(MB
HiNT '
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump white unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream
of
oil Issuing from the sump runs into the container, net up your sleeve.
the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 6 It the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under tho oil filter, which is located on the front right-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully remove It. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground (if applicable).
3.6 Oil filter location (viewed from above)
11 Remove the dipstick, then pull out the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour In half the specified quantity of oil first, then wail a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes: check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before (he pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle In the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the reference Sections of this manual.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
4 Brake warning lamp ag operation check J§
1 With the ignition key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake ftuid reservoir cap (see illustration). 2 As the button is depressed, the brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should Illuminate. 3 If the lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity tester, then refer to Chapter 12, Section 5, wd check the instrument panel bulb.
5 Front brake pad check
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels, 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the friction material of the brake pads on both front brakes- This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper (see illustration). 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads 4.1 Depress the button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

A


Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

ia.14 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts.
there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least tsvo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now. it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal shouto feel considerably harder.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
. transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen 25 Lambda/oxygen sensor ^ key, unscrew the plug and clean it. check \ 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of ^ the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and If the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe is too w,u tr,cWe out when is 'e™oved; this does high or low, Ihe vehicle should be taken to a «©l necessarily Indicate that the level is Fiat dealer so lhat the complete fuel-injection correct. To ensure that a true level is and ignition systems, including the Lamoda/ established, wait until the Initial trickle has oxygen sensor, can be thoroughly checked stopped, then ado oil as necessary until a using the special diagnostic equipment. Once ,r,ckle o1 new oil can be seen emerging. The these have been checked and are known to 'W wl" be correct when ,he flow ceases-us® be free from faults, the fault must be in the good-quality oil of the specified type, catalytic converter, which must be renewed Make sur®that vehicle Is completely level as described In Chapter 4D, Section 6. checking the level and do not overfill, 4 When the level Is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
26 Manual transmission oil level check ^ 27 Evaporative loss system ^ check
1 Park Ihe vehicle on a level surface, If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil ts checked Immediately alter driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the front of the
Refer to Chapter 40 Section 2 and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative toss system components.
28 Automatic transmission fitter and fluid change
1 Take the vehicle on a short run. to warm the transmission up to operating temperature.
Park the car on level ground, then switch off the Ignition. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support]. Note thai, when refilling and checking Uie fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission, Unscrew the sump drain plug and allow the fluid to drain for at ieast 10 minutes. Refit and tighten the drain plug when the fluid has completely drained.

A


Warning: The transmission fluid may be very hot and precautions must be taken to avoid scalding.
4 Clean around the transmission sump mating flange. Unboll and remove the sump and remove the gasket. 5 Remove the two bolts and withdraw the transmission fluid filter {see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter, and secure It with the two bolts. 7 Refit the sump using a new gasket, then
_
lower the vehicle to the ground, 8 Fill the transmission with the specified quantity of fluid via Ihe dipstick tube, using a funnel with a fine mesh filter. 9 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level as described In Weekly checks. 10 Dispose of the old fluid safely.
26.2 Transmission filler/level plug location 28.5 Automatic transmission fluid filter retaining bolts

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.11 Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolts
6 Itae crankshaft sprocket Is also equipped •nth a timing mark - when this is aligned with 3relarence marking on the oil pump cover.
Hie
engine is set with cylinders No 1 and 4 at
TDC.
Note that it is the camshaft positioning that determines whether a cylinder is on its comcression or exhaust stroke.

Location
of TDC on cylinder No 1 7 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Chapter 4A or 4B. Remove the
spark
plug from No 1 cylinder as described in Chapter 1A. 8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then |ack up
the
front of the car and support it securely on iiia stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 1A. 10 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Mole the bolt located at the bottom of the
coven
this can be easily overlooked. 11 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see {lustration). 12 Turn Ihe engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on Ihe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure an be felt at No
1
cylinder spark plug hole.
1 flfliyflg^ Remove all four spark plugs; "••"•1 this will make the engine HlNTl easier to turn; refer to Chapter 1A for details.
13 Continue turning the engine until the crahaft sprocket TDC timing mark is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head and the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see ilustrations). 14 The engine is now set at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression.
3 Cylinder compression test t ^
1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to tne ignition or fuei systems, a compression isst can provide diagnostic clues as to the
2.13a Camshaft sprocket and cylinder head TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned -shown with timing belt removed engine's condition. II the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fufly charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by dis-connecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cyl-inder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred, 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the lest on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low. carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear Is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a biown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
2.13b Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned
than the others and Ihe engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special timing belt fens/on measuring toot to correctly set tho timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. It the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known fo be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer foradvSce.
General information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive Ihe camshaft and coolant pump. Should the belt slip or break In service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valvo contact will occur, resulting in serious engine damage, 2 The timing belt should be renewed ai the specified intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil. or if it is at all noisy in operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it Is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fall.
Removal 4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front road wheel. 5 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 46. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) and the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A.
2A

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
6.3 Camshaft cover gasket
not attempt to lover it ofl • instead free >t by working around the cover and lapping it lightly with a soft-faced mallet, 3 Recover the camshaft covor gasket {see Illustration). Inspect the gasket carefully. And renew It If damage or deterioration is evident. 4 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this.
Refitting 5 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure it Is correctly seated. 6 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket is not displaced. 7 Insert Ihe mounting bolts and tighten them progressively to the specified torque. 8 Refit the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct with reference to Chapter 4A or 48.
7 Camshaft oil seal • renewal I
1 Remove the timing beft and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the cylinder head taking care not to damage the surface of (he camshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the cylinder head and the end of the camshaft. To prevent damage to the new olf seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the camshaft and lightly oil it.
4 Dip the new oil seal In oil then locate it over the camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards, 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely Into the cylinder head. Remove the adhesive tape. 8 Refit the camshaft sprocket and liming belt wtth reference to Sections 5 and 4.
8 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ renewal S
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The fronl oil seal is located in tho oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean Ihe seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Dtp the new oil seal In oil then offer It up 1o the oil pump casing making sure that tho sealing lips are facing Inwards. G Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections S and 4.
Rear {left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing in position. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the housing. 7 Remove the fiywheel/drlveplate as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the rear oil seat housing taking care not to damage the surface of Ihe crankshaft. 9 Clean the seating In the nousing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the sealing lip of the new seal, and If necessary use a fine file to remove them,
10 Dip the new seal In clean engine oil and carefully locate it over the crankshaft rear flange making sure that It is the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oil seal Into the housing keeping It square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the fiywheet/drlvepiate with refer-ence to Section 10.
9 Cylinder head -removal and refitting I
i Removing the timing belt inner covers 9.12 Removing the cylinder head
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative termine! (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A. then remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable and controls from the throttle housing. 4 Disconnect the fuel hoses. 5 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head and inlet manifold. 6 Disconnect all electrical leads noting their location. 7 Remove the Ignition colls with reference to Chapter 58. 8 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, then unbolt end remove the timing belt inner covers (see Illustration). 9 Unbolt and remove the Inlet manifold, complete with throttle housing. On MPI models unbolt the fuel rail. 10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold from th» cylinder head, and tie it to the front of tto engine compartment. If preferred remove the manifold completely by unbolting Ihe downpipe. Also disconnect iha downpipe bracket. 11 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts hall a turn at a time in the reverse order to thai shown In illustration 9.24b. When the bolts in free, remove them wtth their washers. 12 Lift the cylinder head from Ihe block (see Illustration), if It is stuck tight Insert pieces
of
wood Into the exhaust or Inlet ports, and use them as levers to rock the head off the block. On no account drive levers into the gasket joint, nor attempt to tap the head sideways,
as
It Is located on positioning dowels. 13 Remove and discard the cylinder heed gasket and the manifold gaskets. 14 The cylinder head can be dismantled after removing the camshaft and cam followers as described in Chapter 2D. 15 If the valves have been ground-in, the valve clearances will require adjusting, as described In Chapter 1A. This should be dons before the cylinder head is refitted to the engine.