1999 FIAT PUNTO Counter

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
bolt (Bosch)
4 Fuel system -priming and bleeding
The Injection pump Is self-priming and no special procedures are necessary to prime the fuel system. However where the luei system has been completely drained it (s helpful to loosen the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor In order to purge trooped air.
S Fuel injection pump • removal and refitting 5
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual) 2 Remove the timing belt and Injection pump sprocket aa described in Chapter 2C. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the fuel injection pump, with reference to Section 3. 4 Loosen the clip, or undo the banjo union, and disconnect the fuel supply hose. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union, where applicable. Cover the open end of the hose, and raflt and cover the banjo bolt to keep dirt out. 5 Disconnect the main fuel return pipe and the injector leak-off return pipe banjo union. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union Again, cover the open end of the hose and the banjo bolt to keep dirt out.
6.2a Remove the rubber bung ...
k
5.10a Injection pump lower mounting bolt removal (Bosch) 6 Disconnect all relevant wiring from the pump. 7 Unscrew the union nuts securing the Injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump and injectors. Counterhold the unions on Ihe pump, while unscrewing the pipe-to-pump union nuts. Remove the pipes as a set. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out. using small plastic begs, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 8 Mark the fuel Injection pump in relation to the mounting bracket, using a scriber or felt tip pen. This will ensure Ihe correct pump timing is retained when refitting. 9 Unscrew the bolt(s) from Ihe rear support bracket (see illustration) 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts/bolt, remove the special bracket, then remove the injection pump from the mounting bracket/housing (see illustrations).
Refitting 11 Locate the injection pump In the mounting bracket and align the marks mode on the pump and bracket before removal. If a new pump is being fitted, transfer the mark from the old pump to give an approximate setting. Locate the special bracket and fit the nuts/bolt loosely. 12 Refil Ihe rear support bracket and fit the bolts loosely. 13 Set up the injection timing, as described In Sections 7 and 8 (as applicable). 14 Refil and reconnect the injector fuel pipes. 15 Reconnect all relevant wiring to the pump. 16 Reconnect the fuel supply and return hoses, and tighten the unions, as applicable.
6.2b ... when checking the injection pump timing dynamically. Timing marks shown on flywheel and transmission casing
5.10b Removing the special Injection pump mounting brackot (Bosch)
5.10c Removing tho injection pump (Bosch) Use new sealing washers on the banjo unions. 17 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator . cable with reference to Section 3. i 16 Refit the Injection pump sprocket end timing belt as described in Chapter 2C. I 19 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal 20 Start the engine, and check for any ' leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start It may be necessary to loos® the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to porgt trapped air. 21 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed as described in Chapter 1B.
6 injection timing -checking methods
1 Checking the injection timing Is not e routlno operation. It Is only necessary aftorth* Injection pump has been disturbed. I 2 Dynamic timing equipment does exist, bulit ' is unlikely to be available to the hame I mechanic. Tho equipment works by I converting pressure pulses in an Injector pips into electrical signals. If such equipment« available, use it In accordance with Its maker's instructions using the liming mark
on
the flywheel (see illustrations). 3 Static timing as described In this Chaptai gives good results If carried out carefully. A dial test indicator will be needed, with probes and adapters appropriate to the typo of infection pump. Read through the procedures beto starting work, to find out what ts Involved.

Fuel system - diesel models
4C*3

7.4 Unscrew the access screw from the 7.5 Dial gauge and adapter (Bosch) rear of the Injection pump (Bosch)
7 Injection timing ^ (Bosch fuel injection pump) -checking and adjustment ^
Caution: Some of the Injection pump uttlngs and access plugs may be sealed ty the manufacturers at the factory, using
paint
or locking wire and lead seals. Do not
disturb
the seals If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, otherwise the warranty will be invalidated. Also do not attempt the timing procedure unless
accurate
Instrumentation Is available. Note: To check the injection pump timing a special
timing
probe and mounting bracket is required. Without access to this piece of
tquipment.
injection pump timing should be intrusted to a Fiat dealer or other suitably
eqwpped
specialist. 1
H
the Injection timing is being checked with ffie pump in position on the engine, rather rian as part ot the pump refitting procedure, disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to
Disconnecting
the battery in the Reference S«ction of this manual), and remove the air rtel ducting from the front of the engine. 2 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the injector pipes from the Injection pump and injectors. Counterhold the unions on the pump, while unscrewing the pipe-to-pump irion
nuts.
Remove the pipes as a set. Cover open unions to keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded
ibut clean!)
rubber gloves. 3 Referring to Chapter 2C, set the engine at
TDC on
cylinder No 1. 4 Unscrew the access screw, situated In the centre of the four injector pipe unions, from the rear of the Injection pump (see illustration). As the screw Is removed, position a suitable container beneath the
pump
to catch any escaping fuel, Mop up any tpilt fuel with a clean cloth. 5 Screw the adapter into the rear of the pump
and
mount the dial gauge in ihe adapter (see •ustration). If access to the special Fiat *Japter cannot be gained, they can be purchased from most good motor factors. Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at
Ifce
mid-point of its travel and securely tighten Ite adapter locknut. 6 Slowly rotate the crankshaft first back then towards whilst observing the dial gauge, to ctotermlne when the Injection pump piston is
a',
the bottom of Its travel (BDC), When the pston Is correctly positioned, zero the dial
7 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction until the TDC timing marks are tfjned on both the crankshaft, camshaft and rjecbon pump sprockets.
6
The reading obtained on the dial gauge should be equal to the specified pump timing measurement given in the Specifications at ew start of this Chapter, If adjustment is necessary, slacken the fronl and rear pump mounting nuts/bolts and slowly rotate the
pump body until the point is found where the specified reading Is obtained. When the pump is correctly posilioned, tighten both its front and rear mounting nuts and bolts securely. 9 Rotate the crankshaft through one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. Find the injection pump piston BDC as described in paragraph 6 and zero the dial gauge. 10 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation until the TDC marks are aligned. Recheck the timing measurement. 11 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolts and repeat the operations In paragraphs 8 to 10. 12 When the pump timing Is correctly set, unscrew the adapter and remove the dial gauge. 13 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the pump and tighten it securely. 14 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refitting sequence, proceed as described in Section 5, 15 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 16 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the luel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen the injector union nuts while turning tho engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 17 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed as described in Chapter 1B.
8.4 Removing the injection pump timing inspection plug (Lucas)
8 injection timing ^ (Lucas fuel injection pump) - ^ checking
and
adjustment ^
Caution: Some of the injection pump settings and access plugs may be sealed by the manufacturers at the factory, using paint or locking wire and lead seo/s. Do not disturb the seals if the vehicle Is still within the warranty period, otherwise tho warranty will be Invalidated. Also do not affempf the timing procedure unless accurate instrumentation is available.
Note: To check the Injection pump timing a speciai timing probe and mounting bracket Is required. Without access to this piece of equipment, injection pump timing should be entrusted to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist. 1 If the injection timing is being checked with the pump tn position on the engine, rather than as part of the pump refitting procedure, disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), and remove the air inlet ducting from the front of the engine. 2 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the injector pipes from the Injection pump and In-jectors. Counterhold the unions on the pump, while unscrewing the pipe-to-pump union nuts. Remove the pipes as a set. Cover open unions to keep dirt out. using smalt plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 3 Referring to Chapter 2C, set the engine at TDC on cylinder No 1, then turn the crank-shaft backwards (anti-clockwise) approx-imately a quarter of a turn. 4 Unscrew the access plug from the guide on the top of the pump body and recover the sealing washer (soe Illustration). Insert the special liming probe Into the guide, making sure it Ib correctly seated against the guide seating washer surface. Note: The timing probe must be seated against the guide sealing washer surface and not the upper lip of the guide for the measurement to be accurate. 5 Mount the bracket on the pump guide (using adapter tool) and securely mount the dial gauge {dial test indicator) In the bracket
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Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing

Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.

A


Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket

Suspension and steering 10*5
3,9s Withdraw the coll spring, complete with the compressors ... 3.9b ... then withdraw the dust cover and bump rubber 3.9c Fully dismantled strut
10 With the strut assembly now dismantled, examine all the components tor wear, damage or deformation. Check the rubber com-ponents for deterioration. Renew any of the components as necessary. 11 Examine tho damper for signs of fluid teakage. Check the damper rod for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the stjul body for signs of damage. White holding fc
in an
upright position, test the operation of
Ihe
stmt by moving Ihe damper rod through a fut stroke, and then through short strokes of
SO
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance Id should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any wsible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. Note that the damper cannot be renewed independently, and if leakage, damage or corrosion Is evident, the complete strut/damper assembly must be renewed {in which case, the spring, upper mounting components, bushes, and associated components can be transferred to
Ihe
new strut). 12 If any doubt exists about the condition of
Ihe
coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors, and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there isany doubt about its condition. a Warning: Coil springs are /j\ classified by their height when '
11
• undor load • this Is indicatod by a
coloured
paint marking on the side of the
coll windings (either green or yellow). All coll springs fitted to tho vehicle must be of the same classification to ensure the correct ride height. 13 Clamp the strut body in a vice, as dunng dismantling, then refit the lower spring seat rubber (where fitted), dust cover and bump rubber. 14 Ensure that the coil spring is compressed sufficiently to enable the upper mounting components to be fitted, then fit the spring over the damper rod. ensuring that the lower end of the spring is correctly located In the recess on the lower spring seat (soe illustration). 15 Refit the upper spring seat and upper mounting plate ensuring that the top end of
the spring is correctly located on the upper spring seat. Note that when the strut is reassembled, the orientation marking on the upper rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the metal section of the upper mounting plate as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting (see illustration). 10 Fit the new damper rod top nut together with its washer and bush, then tighten the nut to the specified torque, counterholding the damper rod in a manner similar to that used during dismantling. Note that a suitable crows-foot adapter will be required to tighten the damper rod top nut to the specified torque. 17 Remove the spring compressors. Where applicable, refit the protective plastic cap over the damper rod top nut.
Refitting 18 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch, passing the locating stud clip through the holes in the body turret. Note that when the strut is refitted, the orientation marking on the upper mounting plate rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the vehicle as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting • refer to illustration 3.15. Fit the upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 19 Engage Ihe lower end of the strut with the
3.14 Ensure that the lower end of the spring is correctly located in the recess (arrowed) on the lower spring seat
3.15 Correct positioning of the suspension strut upper mounting components A Left hand mounting for vehicles with manual steering B Left hand mounting tor vehicles with power-assisted steering C To front of vehicle O Orientation marking 3.18 Fit the strut upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque

10*12 Suspension and steering
16.4b ... and through-bolt...
6 Remove the two pump mounting bolts (see Illustrations) that were slackened earlier, then remove the pump from the engine.
Refitting 7 Refilling is a reversal, noting the following points: a) On completion, check and j? necessary adjust the dm'ebelt tension ay described In Chapter JA or IB. b) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (sw lubricants and fluids in Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described In Section 15. c) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque setting,
17 Track-rod end -removal and refitting ^ S
Removal Note: A ball joint separator tool will do required for this operation. A new track-rod end nut split pin should be used on refitting. 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake,
I
hen jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant front roadwheel. 2 Partially unscrew the nut securing the (rack-rod end to the steering arm. Using a
17.2a Balljoint separator tool In use on the track-rod end
16.4c ... then detach the guard from the power steering pump
ballpoint separator tool, separate Ihe track-rod end from tho steering arm (see Illustrations). 3 Counterhold the track-rod end using the flats provided, then loosen ihe irack-rod end locknut (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the track-rod end from the track-rod, counting the exact number of turns required to do so. Alternatively, mark the relationship between the track-rod end and the trock-rod using a dab of p3lnL
Refitting 5 Carefully clean the track-rod end and the track-rod threads. 6 Renew the track-rod end if the rubber dust cover Is cracked, split or perished, or If the movement of the balijoint is either sloppy or too stiff. Also check lor other signs of damage such as worn threads. 7 Screw the track-rod end onto ihe track-rod by ihe number ol turns noted before removal. Tighten the locknut temporarily. 8 Ensure that Ihe balljoint taper is clean, then engage the taper wilh the steering arm on the hub carrier. 9 Refit the balljoint nut, and tighten to the specified torque. 10 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Have tho front wheel alignment checked by a Rat dealer or tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity. Note: // the vehicle has to be driven to have the wheel alignment checked, the track-rod end locknut should be tightened before drMng the vehicle.
17.2b Separato tho track-rod end from the steering arm
18.6b ... and rear mounting bolts
18 Wheel alignment and steering angles -general information
General information 1 A car's steering and suspension geomeiry Is defined in four basic settings • with this exception of toe sotting, all angles arc expressed in degrees: the relevant setting! are camber, castor, steering axis inclination, and toe-setting. With ihe exception of toe-sett ing, none of these settings are acfjustabitf.
Front wheel toe setting
Chocking 2 Due to the special measuring equlpr 17.3 Counterhold the track-rod end, then loosen the locknut (arrowed)
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Suspension and steering 10*13
the skill required to use It properly, the checking and adjustment of these settings Is best left to a Fiat dealer or similar expert. Most tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated checking equipment. 3 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be at the kerb weight specified in Dimensions and weights. 4 Before starting work, check first that the tyre sizes and types are as specified (see Tyre pressures in Weekly checks), then check tyre pressures and tread wear. Also check roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub bearings, the steering wheel free play and the condition of the front suspension components (Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or
1B).
Correct any faults found. 6 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the front roadwheeis in the straight-ahead position. Rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake and roll the vehicle backwards approximately 1 metre, then forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the steering and suspension components. 6 Two methods are available to the home mechanic for checking the front wheel toe setting. One method is to use a gauge to measure the distance between the front and rear inside edges of the roadwheeis. The other method is to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel is rolled across a movable plate which records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the straight-ahead position as It moves across the plate. Such gauges are available in relatively-inexpensive form from accessory outlets. It Is up to the owner to decide whether the expense is justified, In view of the small amount of use such equipment would normally receive. 7 Prepare the vehicle 8S described in paragraphs 3 to 5 above.
8 If the measurement procedure is being used, carefully measure the distance between the front edges of the roadwheel rims and the rear edges of the rims. Subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement, and check that the result is within the specified range. If not, adjust the toe setting as described in paragraph 10. 9 If scuff plates are to be used, roll the vehicle backwards, check that the roadwheeis are in the straight-ahead position, then roll it across the scuff plates so that each front roadwheel passes squarely over the centre of its respective plate. Note the angle recorded by the scuff plates. To ensure accuracy, repeat the check three times, and take the average of the three readings, if the roadwheeis are running parallel, there will of course be no angle recorded; If a deviation value Is shown on the scuff plates, compare the reading obtained for each wheel with that supplied by the scuff plate manufacturers. If the value recorded is outside Ihe specified tolerance, the toe setting is incorrect, and must be adjusted as follows. Adjustment 10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record the number of exposed threads on the right-hand track-rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threads on the left-hand side. If there are the same number of threads visible on both sides, then subsequent adjustment should be made equally on both sides. If there are more threads visible on one side than the other, it will be necessary to compensate for this during adjustment Note: It is important to ensure that, after adjustment, the same number of threads are visible on the end of each track-rod.
11 First clean the track-rod threads; If they are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before starting adjustment. Release the steering gear rubber gaiter outboard clips, then peel back the gaiters and apply a smear of grease, so that both gaiters are free and will not be twisted or strained as their respective track-rods are rotated. 12 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or similar to mark the relationship of each track-rod to the track-rod end. Working on each track-rod end in tum, unscrew its locking nut. 13 Alter the length of the track-rods, bearing In mind the note in paragraph 10, by screwing them into or out of the track-rod ends. Rotate the track-rod using an open-ended spanner fitted to the flats provided. If necessary, counterhold the track-rod end using a second spanner. Shortening the track-rods (screwing them Into their track-rod ends) will reduce toe-in and increase toe-out. 14 When the setting Is correct, hold the track-rods and securely tighten the locking nuts. Check that the balljoints are seated correctly In their sockets, and count the exposed threads on the ends of the track-rods. If the number of threads exposed is not the same on both sides, then the adjustment has not been made equally, and problems will be encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer be horizontal when the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 15 When the track-rod lengths are the same, lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check the toe setting; readjust if necessary. When the setting is correct, tighten the locking nuts. Ensure that the steering gear rubber gaiters are seated correctly and are not twisted or strained, then secure them In position with new retaining clips.
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