I
8*4 Driveshafts
3.3 Using pair of circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the driveshaft in place
Turbo diesel models 4 Mark the relationship between the joint and the driveshaft using a scriber or a dab of paint. Attach a slide hammer to the dnveshaft nut thread. 5 Draw the joint off the driveshaft using the slide hammer, Use just enough effort to overcome the tension of the internal circlip.
Inboard CV joint removal All models except turbo dieseis 6 Al the inboard end of the driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch to mark the relationship between Ihe shaft and |olnt. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then using a three-legged puller if required, draw Ihe tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft. Ensure that the legs of Ihe puller bear upon the cast centre section of the joint, not the roller beanngs (see illustration) Turbo diesel models 7 Al the inboard end of Ihe driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch lo mark the relationship between the shaft and joint. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then carefully slide the CV joint from the end ot the shaft. Take great care to prevenl the
cage and bail bearings from falling out • secure the joint components together with wire or a nylon cable-tie. 8 Remove the washer then slide the flange from the end of the shaft.
Inspection 9 Slide both rubber gaiters off the driveshaft and discard them: It is recommended that new ones are fitted on reassembly as a matter of course. Recover the flexible washers (where fitted), making a note of their fitted positions, to aid correct refitting later. 10 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft splines, and CV joint components with paraffin or a suitable solvent, taking care not to destroy any alignment marks made during removal. 11 Examine Ihe CV joint components for wear and damage: in particular, check the balls and corresponding grooves for pitting and corrosion. If evidence of wear Is visible, then the joint must be renewed. Note that if the outboard CV joint Is to be renewed on turbo diesel models, it must be matched to the driveshaft using the colour-coded paint markings. 12 Where applicable, examine the tripod joint components for wear. Check thai the three rollers are free lo rotate without resistance and are not worn, damaged or corroded. The rollers are supported by arrays of needle bearings: wear or damage will show up as play In the rollers and/or roughness in rotation. If wear is discovered, the tnpod joint must be renewed. 13 Fit a new rubber gaiter (and where applicable, flexible washer) to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure it In place on the shaft with a clip (see illustration).
Inboard CV joint - refitting
All models except turbo dieseis 14 Using Ihe alignment marks made during removal, fit the tripod joint onto the splines of the driveshaft. Tap It Into position using a soft faced mallet. To ensure that the tripod Joint rollers and driveshaft splines are not damaged, use a socket with an internal diameter slightly larger than I hat of the driveshafl as a drift. Refit the circlip. 15 Slide the gaiter over tho tripod joint and pack the gaiter with grease from the service kit.
3.6 Draw the tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft 3.13 FH s new rubber gaiter to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure It in place with a clip
Caution: Do not allow grease to come
into
contact with vehicles paintwork, es discolouring may rasutt. Turbo diesel models 16 Slide the flange and washer onto the end of the shaft, then fit the joint Into position on the driveshaft splines, using the alignment marks made during removal. Fit the circlip. ' 17 Pack the gaiter with grease from His service kit, then slide the gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel ail the air from the joint, then secure the gaiter over the joint with a new clip. Caution: Do not allow grease to come
Into
contact with the vehicle's paintwork, as discolouring may result.
Outboard CV joint - refitting 18 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the outboard end of the driveshaft and secure it place with a dp, 19 Pack the CV joint with grease from Ihe service kit, pushing It into the ball grooves and expelling any air that may be trapped underneath. 20 Lubricate the splines of the drive shaft with a smear of grease, then whilst splaying the circlip open with a pair ot circlip pile*, insert the driveshaft into CV joint, observing the alignment marks made during removal. Note: On turbo diesel models, the circlip snaps into the CV Joint groove as Ifte driveshaft is inserted - no circlip pliers are required. Ensure that the circlip snaps securely Into place: pull on the shaft to check that it is held firmly In position. 21 Pack additional grease Into the joint to displace any air pockets, then slide the rubber gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip ol the gaiter to expel all the air from Ihe joint, then secure it In place with a clip. 22 Refit the driveshaft (see Section 2).
4 Intermediate driveshaft - % removal and refitting J;
Note 1: This procedure applies only to turbo diesel engined models. Note 2: The intermediate shaft and
bearing
are not available as separate spares and cac only be renewed as a comptefe assembly.
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of Ihe car and support It securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheei(s). 2 Unbolt the inboard end of the right*hand driveshaft from the intermediate shaft
flange, as
described In Section 2. Suspend the dis-connected end of the driveshaft from a conven-ient point on the subframe, using wire or a cable-tie. to avoid straining the joint and gaiter. 3 Drain the oil from the transmission, with reference to Chapter 1B.
9«1
Chapter 9
Braking system
Contents
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting 4 Brake fluid level check See Weekly checks Brake fluid renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B Brake warning lamp check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 Front brake pad check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake pads - renewal 2 General information 1 Handbrake - checking and adjustment 9
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting 10 Hydraulic pipes end hoses - renewal 13 Hydraulic system - bleeding 11 Master cylinder - removal and refitting 12 Roar brake shoe check See Chapter 1A or 1B Rear brake shoes - renewal 5 Rear brake drums - removal, inspection and refitting 6 Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting 7 Stop-light switch - adjustment, removal and refitting 6
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable
far
novice with Sttle
experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ (orbeginnerwith ®
some
experience
Fairly difficult, suitable
for
compe«ent ^ CHYmechanlc ^
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY « mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
Front disc brakes Type Disc with single-piston sliding calipers Disc diameter Petrol models with single-point Injection 240.0 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 257.0 mm Non-turbo diesel models 240.0 mm Turbodieselmodels 257.0 mm Disc thickness (new); Petrol models with single-point injection 10.80 to 11.10 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 11.80 to 12.10 mm Non-turbo diesel models 10.80 to 11.10 mm Turbodieselmodels 11.80 to 12.10 mm Minimum disc thickness (wear limit): Petrol models with single-pant Injection 9.20 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 10.20 mm Non-turbo diesel models 9.20 mm Turbo diesel models 10.20 mm Maximum disc runout 0.15 mm Brake pad friction material minimum thickness 1.5 mm
Rear drum brakes Drum Inner diameter (new) 180.0 to 180.25 mm Maximum drum diameter (wear limit) 181.35 mm Minimum brake shoe lining thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft
Bfeed
screw 6 4 Brake disc locating studs 12 9 Brake drum locating studs 12 9 Brake pipe and hose unions 14 10 Front caliper mounting bracket-to-hub carrier bolts 53 39 Front caliper-to-caliper bracket guide pin bolts 12 9 fleer wheel cylinder mounting boils 10 7 Roadwheel bolts 85 63
Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.
A
Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket
10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks
Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^
Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^
FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^
Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37