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yellowblue
4-36
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Page 210 of 392

yellowblue
4-38 Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Page 211 of 392

yellowblue
4-39 Trailer Wiring Harness
If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle
will have an eight
-wire harness, including the center
high
-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness
is stored on the passenger's side of the vehicle near the
rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery feed
wire and no connector, and should be wired by a
qualified electrical technician. After choosing an
aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the
technician attach one connector to the eight
-wire trailer
harness and the other connector to the wiring harness on
the trailer. Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is
taped or strapped to the trailer's frame rail and leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight
-wire
harness must be routed out of your vehicle between the
rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left
on both sides so that the trailer or the body won't pull it.
If you do not have the optional trailering package, your
vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The harness is
located near the passenger's side rear wheel well. It
consists of six wires that may be used by after
-market
trailer hitch installers. The technician can use the
following color code chart when connecting the wiring
harness to your trailer.Brown: Rear lamps.
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
White (Heavy Gage): Ground.
Light Green: Back
-up lamps.
White (Light Gage): Center High
-Mounted
Stoplamp.
Blue: Auxiliary circuit (eight
-wire harness only).
Orange: Fused auxiliary (eight
-wire harness only).
Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the
harness together and tie it neatly so it won't
be damaged.
Page 219 of 392

yellowblue
5-7
Towing Your Vehicle
CAUTION:
To help avoid serious personal injury to you
or others:
Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
being towed.
Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
Never tow with damaged parts not
fully secured.
Never get under your vehicle after it has
been lifted by the tow truck.
Always secure the vehicle on each side with
separate safety chains when towing it.
Use only the correct hooks.
NOTICE:
Use the proper towing equipment to avoid
damage to the bumper, fascia or fog lamp areas
of the vehicle.
With current trends in automotive styles and design, it is
essential that the correct towing equipment is used to
tow a vehicle. Your vehicle can be towed with wheel
-lift
or car
-carrier equipment. When using wheel-lift
equipment on a vehicle with the All
-Wheel Drive
option, you must use a dolly under the rear wheels when
towing from the front and under the front wheels when
towing from the rear. On Rear
-Wheel Drive vehicles
observe the following tow limits.
Tow Limits
-- 35 mph (56 km/h), 50 miles (80 km)
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your vehicle towed. See ªRoadside
Assistanceº in the Index.
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5-18
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This
improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under
heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Page 231 of 392
yellowblue
5-19
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
Page 232 of 392
yellowblue
5-20 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored by your
vehicle's rear doors, along the passenger's side wall.
1. Remove your jack cover by pulling it away from the
side wall and down to release the tabs securing the
top of the cover.
2. Remove the wheel blocks by turning the top nut
counterclockwise.
3. Remove the nut and washer, then pull the wheel
blocks off the bolt.
4. Push down on the bolt and remove the hooked end
from the slot. Slide the jack toward the front of the
vehicle and lift it from the mounting.
5. Remove the extension and the ratchet from
the pouch.
Page 234 of 392
yellowblue
5-22
7. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through
the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper.
Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.
8. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare
tire to the ground. Keep turning the ratchet until the
spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.
9. When the tire has been
lowered, tilt the retainer
plate at the end of the
cable and pull it through
the wheel opening.
Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
NOTICE:
To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the
vehicle before cable is restored.