Page 178 of 356
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Set the parking brake.
Open the fuse panel
on the driver’s side of the
instrument panel. Remove the fuse labeled
PRNDL.
This will keep your battery from draining
while towing.
Turn the ignition key to
OFF to unlock the steering
wheel. See “Ignition Positions” in the Index.
Clamp the steering wheel in
a straight-ahead
position, with a clamping device designed
for towing.
Release the parking brake.
When you are finished towing, make sure you replace
the
PRNDL fuse in the instrument panel fuse block.
Towing Your Vehicle from the Rear
I NOTICE:
Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your
vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs
would not be covered by your warranty.
4-30
Page 185 of 356

Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load
is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Page 198 of 356

!L CAUTION:
A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t
adequately secured. This can cause a collision,
serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The
vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or
steel cables before it is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps,
canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp
edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use
T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use
J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and
suspension components.
When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition
key off. The steering wheel should be clamped
in a
straight-ahead position, with
a clamping device
designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s
steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be
in
NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels,
unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the
drive wheels, see speed and distance restrictions later
in
this section or your transaxle will be damaged. If these
limits must be exceeded, then the drive wheels have to
be supported on a dolly.
5-10
-
Page 212 of 356

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure
Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling
system has cooled down. If the coolant isn’t at the
proper level, repeat Steps
1 to 3 and reinstall the
pressure cap or
see your retailer.
cap
is tight.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s
unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If
air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But
if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-24
Page 225 of 356

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice
or Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is
to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but
you must use caution.
IN:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re
stuck, spin the wheels
as little as possible. Don’t
spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 kmh) as shown
on the speedometer.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle
as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transaxle back and
forth, you can destroy your transaxle.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels.
If your vehicle has
the Enhanced Traction System, you should
turn the system
off. (See “Enhanced Traction System” in the Index.) Then
shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear, spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you
shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear.
If that
doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be
towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing
Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
5-37
Page 229 of 356

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows
how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6-2
6-3
6-5
6-5
6-8
6-8
6-
12
6- 17
6-18
6-2 1
6-25
6-25
6-26
6-27
6-3
1
Service
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Air Cleaner Automatic Transaxle Fluid
Engine Coolant
Thermostat Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes
Battery 6-32
6-3 6 6-36
6-44
6-45
6-47
6-48
6-5
1
6-52
6-52
6-57
6-58
6-58
6-59
6-59 Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper
Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Care
of Safety Belts
Cleaning the Outside
of Your Vehicle
Appearance
Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Air Conditioning Refrigerants
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Vehicle Dimensions
Page 238 of 356
2.4L (CODE T) Engine
When you open the hood, you’ll see:
A. Engine Coolant Surge Tank
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap
C. Engine Oil Dipstick
D. Automatic Transaxle Dipstick
E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
E Brake Fluid Reservoir
G. Windshield Washer
Fluid Reservoir
H. Air Cleaner
1. Battery
Page 239 of 356
3100 (CODE M) Engine
When you open the hood, you’ll see:
I
A. Engine Coolant Surge Tank
B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap D. Engine
Oil Dipstick
E. Automatic Transaxle Dipstick
F. Brake Fluid Reservoir
G. Windshield Washer
Fluid Reservoir
H. Air Cleaner
I. Battery
6-11