1998 MITSUBISHI MONTERO starter









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* Check air Gap of the Pick-Up   * Check resistance of ballast 

coil in the distributor.   resistor (if used) for the 










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* Check Pick-Up coil for   * Adjust or replace as  

correct resistance value.   necessary.  










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* Replace Pick-Up coil if   * Check control module for  

not to specification.   good ground connections.  










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* If vehicle fails to run at this point, go to  
 the appropriate article in the ENGINE  
 PERFORMANCE section.  









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* Check wires from the battery/  * Replace ballast resistor 

ignition switch to the coil.   if the measured resistance 

Also check the coil primary   value is not within 

and secondary resistance.   specification. 










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STARTER TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC STARTER TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Starter Fails Dead battery or bad Check battery charge
to Operate connections between and all wires and
starter and battery connections to starter

Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch
Open circuit between Check and repair wires
starter switch ignition and connections as
terminal on starter relay necessary
Starter relay or starter See Testing in STARTER
defective article
Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article









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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes









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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage









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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground

connections for
tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch as
necessary









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Starter Cranks Battery weak or Charge or replace
Engine Slowly defective battery as necessary
Engine overheated See ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM article
Engine oil too heavy Check that proper
viscosity oil
is used
Poor battery-to-starter Check that all
connections between
battery and starter are
clean and tight
Current draw too low or See Bench Tests in
too high STARTER article
Bent armature, loose pole See STARTER article
shoes screws or worn
bearings
Burned solenoid contacts Replace solenoid
Faulty starter Replace starter









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Starter Engages Engine timing too far See Ignition Timing in
Engine Only advanced TUNE-UP article
Momentarily
Overrunning clutch not Replace overrunning
engaging properly clutch. See STARTER
article
Broken starter clutch See STARTER article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check starter pinion
gear for damage
Weak drive assembly See STARTER article
thrust spring
Weak hold-in coil See Bench Tests in
STARTER article









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Starter Drive Defective point assembly See Testing in STARTER
Will Not Engage article
Poor point assembly ground See Testing in STARTER
article
Defective pull-in coil Replace starter
solenoid









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Starter Relay Dead battery Charge or replace

Does Not Close battery as necessary
Faulty wiring Check all wiring and
connections leading to
relay
Neutral safety switch Replace neutral safety
faulty switch
Starter relay faulty Replace starter relay









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Starter Drive Starter motor loose on Tighten starter
Will Not mountings attach bolts
Disengage
Worn drive end bushing See STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel Replace flywheel and
teeth starter pinion gear for
damage
Drive yolk return spring Replace return spring
broken or missing
Faulty ignition switch Replace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance Replace starter
between winding leads to solenoid
solenoid terminal and main
contact in solenoid
Starter clutch not Replace starter clutch
disengaging
Ignition starter switch Replace ignition switch
contacts sticking









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Starter Relay Faulty solenoid switch, Check all wiring
Operates but switch connections or between relay and
Solenoid Does Not solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as
necessary
Broken lead or loose Repair wire or wire
soldered connections connections as
necessary









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Solenoid Plunger Weak battery Charge or replace
Vibrates When battery as necessary
Switch is Engaged
Solenoid contacts Clean contacts or
corroded replace solenoid
Faulty wiring Check all wiring
leading to solenoid
Broken connections inside Repair connections or
switch cover replace solenoid
Open hold-in wire Replace solenoid









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Low Current Draw Worn brushes or weak Replace brushes or
brush springs as
necessary

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High Pitched Whine Distance too great Align starter or check
During Cranking between starter that correct starter
Before Engine pinion and flywheel and flywheel are being
Fires but Engine used
Fires and Cranks
Normally









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High Pitched Distance too small between
Whine After Engine starter pinion and flywheel
Fires With Key Flywheel runout contributes
released. Engine to the intermittent nature
Fires and Cranks
Normally









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TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC SPARK PLUG TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Normal Spark Light Tan or Gray deposits No Action
Plug Condition
Electrode not burned or No Action
fouled
Gap tolerance not changed No Action









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Cold Fouling or Overrich air/fuel mixture Adjust air/fuel
Carbon Deposits mixture, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE section
Faulty choke Replace choke
assembly, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE section
Clogged air filter Clean and/or replace
air filter
Incorrect idle speed or Reset idle speed and/
dirty carburetor or clean carburetor
Faulty ignition wires Replace ignition
wiring
Prolonged operation Shut engine off
at idle during long idle
Sticking valves or worn Check valve train
valve guide seals









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Wet Fouling Worn rings and pistons Install new rings and
or Oil Deposits pistons

ignition switch
Open circuit between Repair circuit
ignition switch and
starter solenoid









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Engine Runs Fuel lines leaking or Tighten fitting,
Rough clogged remove restriction
Initial timing incorrect Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Centrifugal advance Repair distributor
malfunction advance
Defective spark plugs or Replace plugs or plug
wiring wiring









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Component Failure Spark arc-over on cap, Replace cap, rotor or
rotor or coil or coil
Defective pick-up coil Replace pick-up coil
Defective ignition coil Replace ignition coil
Defective vacuum unit Replace vacuum unit
Defective control module Replace control module









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BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING
CHARTS - USING OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Firing Voltage Retarded ignition timing Reset ignition
Lines are the Same, timing, see ENGINE
but Abnormally High PERFORMANCE section
Fuel mixture too lean Readjust carburetor,
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
High resistance in coil Replace coil wire
wire
Corrosion in coil tower Clean and/or replace
terminal coil
Corrosion in distributor Clean and/or replace
coil terminal distributor cap









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Firing Voltage Fuel mixture too rich Readjust carburetor,
Lines are the Same see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
but Abnormally Low
Breaks in coil wire causing Replace coil wire
arcing
Cracked coil tower causing Replace coil
arcing
Low coil output Replace coil
Low engine compression Determine cause and

The noid light is an excellent "quick and dirty" tool. It can
usually be hooked to a fuel injector harness fast and the flashing
light is easy to understand. It is a dependable way to identify a no-
pulse situation.
However, a noid light can be very deceptive in two cases:
* If the wrong one is used for the circuit being tested.
Beware: Just because a connector on a noid light fits the
harness does not mean it is the right one.
* If an injector driver is weak or a minor voltage drop is
present.
Use the Right Noid Light
In the following text we will look at what can happen if the
wrong noid light is used, why there are different types of noid lights
(besides differences with connectors), how to identify the types of
noid lights, and how to know the right type to use.
First, let's discuss what can happen if the incorrect type of
noid light is used. You might see:
* A dimly flashing light when it should be normal.
* A normal flashing light when it should be dim.
A noid light will flash dim if used on a lower voltage
circuit than it was designed for. A normally operating circuit would
appear underpowered, which could be misinterpreted as the cause of a
fuel starvation problem.
Here are the two circuit types that could cause this problem:
* Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately
on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the
available voltage to an injector in order to limit the
current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a
noid light designed for full voltage.
* Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak
and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick
burst of voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back
significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration.
If a noid light was designed for the other type of driver
(voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim
because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow for the
entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes
normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive
noid light is used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was
weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit\
with an actual problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to
consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a
partial driver failure or a minor voltage drop in the injector
circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid
light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of
corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the
starter motor will not operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on
the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they
light normally and are fully bright. This is the same idea as noid
light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the
headlights ("noid light"), but not the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using
the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding