The 1998 GMC Savana Owner’s Manual
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Seats and Restraint Systems
This section tells you how to use your seats and safety belts properly. It also explains the air bag system.
Features and Controls
This section explains how to start and operate your vehicle.
Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
This section tells you how to adjust the ventilation and comfort controls and how to operate your audio system.
Your Driving and the Road
Here you’ll find helpful information and tips about the road and how to drive under different conditions.
Problems on the Road
This section tells what to do if you have a problem while driving, such as a flat tire or overheated engine, etc.
Service and Appearance Care
Here the manual tells you how to keep your vehicle running properly and looking good.
Maintenance Schedule
This section tells you when to perform vehicle maintenance and what fluids and lubricants to use.
Customer Assistance Information
This section tells you how to contact GMC for assistance and how to get service and owner publications.
It
also gives you information on “Reporting Safety Defects” on page 8- 10.
Index
Here’s an alphabetical listing of almost every subject in this manual. You can use it to quickly find
something
you want to read.
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Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and then shift to
PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each of these
is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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If your vehicle has a 7.4 liter engine and air
conditioning, your vehicle will have a auxiliary
engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps
are
on properly.
Then lift the hood
to relieve pressure on the hood prop.
Remove
the hood prop from the slot in the hood and
return the prop
to its retainer. Then just let the hood
down and close it firmly.
Noise Control System
The following information relates to compliance with
Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system
to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The
noise control system warranty
is given in your
Warranty booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in
the
United States.
Tampering With Noise Control
System Prohibited
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,
other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or
replacement,
of any device or element of design
incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose
of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the
ultimate purchaser or while
it is in use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the
acts listed below.
Insulation:
0 Removal of the noise shields or underhood insulation.
Engine:
0 Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if
equipped) inoperative
so as to allow engine speed to
exceed manufacturer specifications.
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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your
vehicle. However, you can use
SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going
to be 0” F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil
container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do
not use
other viscosity oils, such
as SAE 20W-50.
1 NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines
“Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the
recommended oil can result in engine damage
not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where
the temperature falls
below
-20°F (-29”C), consider using either an
SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both
will provide easier cold starting and better protection
for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to
advise if
you think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity
maintenance schedule:
0
0
0
0
0
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
Most trips are through dusty areas.
You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of
your vehicle.
The vehicle
is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first.
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If none of them is true, use the long triphighway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever
occurs first. Driving
a vehicle with a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine oil
to break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain
elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could
even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay
on your skin
for very long. Clean your slun and nails with soap and
water, or
a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw
away clothing
or rags containing used engine oil. (See
the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal
of oil products.)
Used
oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing
oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose
of
oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground,
into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead,
recycle
it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If
you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil,
ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling
center for help.
Air Cleaner (Gasoline Engines)
A
To remove the air cleaner filter:
1. Loosen the screw bolt to air induct hose.
2. Remove the three bolts holding the air cleaner
housing in place.
3. Remove the full air housing.
4. Unsnap the three clips.
Then
tilt the top cover up and back to expose the
filter element.
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5. Install a new filter element with the folds in the
down position.
Reverse Steps
1 through 4 to replace the air cleaner.
See “Normal Replacement Parts” for the proper filter
to use.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
to determine when to
replace the air filter and crankcase ventilation filter.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
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Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can
cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner
not only cleans the air,
it stops flame if the engine
backfires.
If it isn’t there, and the engine
backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with
it
off, and be careful working on the engine with
the air cleaner
off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a
damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get
into your engine, which will damage
it. Always
have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Automatic
Transmission Fluid” in the Diesel Supplement.
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level
is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or
if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of
these conditions:
0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches
90°F (32°C) or higher.
0 In hilly or mountainous terrain.
0 When doing frequent trailer towing.
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Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If your vehicle’s
GVWR is not over 8,600 and you
do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions,
change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles
(166 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at your
GM dealership
Service Department.
If you
do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or
you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission.
Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if
you have been driving:
0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
0 At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C
to 93 O C). See “Checking Transmission Fluid
Hot”
in the Index.
Checking Transmission Fluid Hot
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24
km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), drive the
vehicle in in DRIVE
(D) until the engine temperature
gage moves and
then remains steady for 10 minutes.
Then follow the hot check procedures.
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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a
cold check or in the
HOT area or cross-hatched area
for
a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip
the handle
down
to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind
of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index.
Add fluid
only after checking the transmission fluid
while
it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a
reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough
of
the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area
for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally
less than one pint
(0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
I NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11
is not covered by your new vehicle warrantv.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How
to Check.”
When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
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