1998 GMC SAVANA fuel

Fuel Gage
UNLEADED
FUEL ONLY
The fuel gage, when the
ignition is on, tells you
about how much fuel you
have left in your tank.
The gage will first indicate EMPTY
(E) before you
are
out of fuel, and you should get more fuel as soon
as possible. Listed
are four situations
you may experience with your
fuel gage:
At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before the
gage reads
FULL (F).
0 It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the
fuel gage indicated. For example, the gage may have
indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took a
little more.or less than half the tank’s capacity to fill
the tank.
The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or
speed up.
0 The gage doesn’t go back to EMPTY (E) when you
turn off the ignition.
None of these indicate
a problem with the fuel gage.
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w.
?# HEAT/DEFROST Use this setting to divide
airflow between the heater floor vents and windshield.
DEFROST This setting directs air through the
windshield defroster vents. This setting is useful when
you have fog or ice on the windshield.
Heater/Air Conditioning Controls
If your vehicle has air conditioning, your heatedair
conditioning controls will look like this.
Before using your vehicle’s air conditioning, open
the
windows to clear the vehicle of hot air.
Fan Knob
The knob on the left side of the heating system control
panel controls the fan speed. The knob has four speed
positions. To increase airflow, move the knob toward
HI. To decrease airflow, move it toward LO. To turn the
fan off, move the mode knob on
the far right to OFF.
Temperature Knob
The middle knob on the control panel lets you select the
relative temperature
of the air flowing into the passenger
area of your vehicle. This knob will allow
you to adjust
the relative air temperature independently of the
function knob setting. Move the knob toward the red
area for warmer air. Move the
knob toward the blue area
for cooler air.
Mode Knob
The right knob on the control panel changes the
heatedair conditioning setting.
MAX A/C: Move the right knob to MAX A/C for
maximum cooling. This setting puts the system in the
recirculation mode and helps to maximize your air
conditioner’s performance and your vehicle’s
fuel
economy. This setting also cools the air the fastest. After
the vehicle’s interior reaches a comfortable temperature,
move the knob to the right to place the air conditioning
system in the
A/C mode.
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The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer,
not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you
may tend to think you are going
slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh
-- such as after a day’s
work
-- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive
in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs
service, have
it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts
in GM
dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready
and willing to help if you need
it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
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Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip.
Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated
to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook
along your route?
Should you delay your trip a short
time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly
CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base
of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again
from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open
a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away
from the wind. This will help
keep
CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push
the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that
you get and it keeps the
battery (or batteries) charged.
You will need a
well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle,
and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps.
Let the heater
run for a while.
If
you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a
higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine
off and close the window almost all the way to preserve
the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only
when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But
do
it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you
can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or
so until help comes.
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Loading Your Vehicle
COLD TIRE PRESSURE
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The Certificationmire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your
original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain
the gross weight capacity
of your vehicle. This is called
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR
includes the weight
of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel
and cargo. The
Certificationrnire label also tells
you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find
out the actual loads on
your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on
both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
And,
if you do have a heavy load, you should spread
it out.
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Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If
you do, parts on your vehicle can break,
or it can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you
to lose control. Also,
overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by
your warranty.
To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the
vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight
of the Trailer”
that appears later in this section. But trailering is
different than just driving your vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in handling, durability and
fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct
equipment, and it has
to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this section. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that
of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to
do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh
4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg) or less. You should
always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh
more than
4,000 Ibs. (1 800 kg). You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over
50 mph (80 kmh) and
don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear
in at the
heavier loads.
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Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions,
the fan is spinning slower and
the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor
high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases as the
clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase in
fan noise. This is normal and should not
be mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan
will slow down when additional cooling
is not required
and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as
the fan clutch
partially disengages. It’s unusual
for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But
if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake
to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
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vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
Service
Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Noise Control System Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
Air Cleaner (Gasoline Engines)
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Rear Axle
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap
Thermostat
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Brakes
Battery
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6-67
6-69 Bulb
Replacement
Halogen Bulbs
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside
of Your Vehicle
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped)
Cleaning Tires
Sheet Metal Damage
Finish Damage
Appearance Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number (VJN)
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
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