1998 GMC ENVOY tire pressure

NOTICE:
Don’t hold a cigarette lighter in with your hand
while
it is heating. If you do, it won’t be able to
back away from the heating element when it’s
ready. That can make it overload, damaging the
lighter and the heating element.
There is a smaller ashtray in the rear of the center
floor console.
Sun Visors
To block out glare, you can swing down the top and
bottom visors
(if your vehicle has them). You can also
swing the bottom visor from side-to-side. Your visors
may have an extension that can be pulled out for
additional glare protection and a strap for holding small
items, such
as maps.
Illuminated Visor Vanity Mirror
Pull the sun visor down and lift the mirror cover to turn
on the lamps.
Accessory Inflator
Your vehicle is equipped with an air inflator system.
With
it, you can inflate things like air mattresses and
basketballs, and you can also use it to bring your tires up
to the proper pressure.
The air inflator is located in
the rear compartment on the
passenger’s side
of the
vehicle.
To remove the
cover, pull the tab on the
cover and pull
it off’.
The air inflator kit
is stored in the rear compartment of
your vehicle. It includes a I %foot (5.5 m) hose with
three nozzle adapters.
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Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out
in
front of you.
You slam on
the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one
of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at
both rear wheels. The anti-lock system can
change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer
is
programmed to make the most of available tire and
road conditions.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
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Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous.
If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed
or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate
as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer
braking distances.
It‘s best
to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the
deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea
is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t
get stuck. When
you drive
on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel
traction.
But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend
to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want
to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it’s very easy
to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is
so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And
if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out
of control.
LA CAU-ION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or ~ ~ rers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen
if the road is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn‘t happen often.
But it can if your
tires do not have much tread
or if the pressure in one or
more
is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on
the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles or other vehicles, and raindrops ”dimple” the
water‘s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t a hard and fdst rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice
is to slow down when it is raining.
1 )riving Through Deep Standing W ’ Fr
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or
standing water, water can come in through your
engine’s air intake and badly damage your
engine. Never drive through water that
is slightly
lower than the underbody
of your vehicle. If’ you
can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive
through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
0 Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance.
And be especially carefir1 when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
ahead, and be prepared
to have your view restricted
by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See
“Tires”
in the Index.)
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The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer’
not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds,
you may tend to think you are going
slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh
-- such as after a day’s
work
-- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive
in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it‘s ready to go. If it needs
service, have
it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts
in GM
dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
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WincJsl~ield Wcrshc~r- Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blcrdes: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Elzgirze Oil, Other Flr.ds: Have you checked
all levels‘?
Lcunps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip.
Is the tread good enough for
long-distance drivingi? Are the tires all inflated
to the
recommended pressure?
Wecrther Forec*cr.sts: What’s the weather outlook
along your route? Should
you delay your trip a short
time to avoid
a major storm system?
A4crp.s: Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Loading Your Vehicle
The CertificatiodTire label is found on the driver’s door
edge, above the door latch. The label shows the size of
your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to
obtain the gross weight capacity
of your vehicle. This is
called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The
GVWR includes the weight of
the vehicle, all occupants,
fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The
Certification/Tire label
also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called
Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR).
To find out the actual loads on
your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on
both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle,
or the
GAWR for either the
front or rear axle.
If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs
and payloads. Please note your vehicle’s
Certificatian/Tire label or consult your dealer for
additional details.
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Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break,
or it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of
your vehicle.
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then
it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted
to its appearance care.
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Service
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Filling a Portable
Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Air Cleaner
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Rear Axle
Four- Wheel Drive
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap
Thermostat
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Brakes Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside
of Your Vehicle
Care of Safety Belts
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
Appearance Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Service Parts Identification Label
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Air Conditioning Refrigerants
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Poorly maintained and improperly used tires
are dangerous.
Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as
a result of too much friction.
You could have an air-out and
a serious
accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in
the Index.
Underinflated tires pose the same danger as
overloaded tires. The resulting accident
could cause serious injury. Check all tires
frequently to maintain the recommended
pressure. Tire pressure should be checked
when your tires are cold.
Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,
punctured or broken by a sudden impact
--
such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires
at the recommended pressure.
Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have
been damaged, replace them.
Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The CertificatiodTire label, which is on the driver’s
door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct
inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least
three hours or driven no more than
1 mile (1.6 km).
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or
overinflation is all right. It’s not.
If your tires
don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can
get the following:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
NOTICE: (Continued)
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