1998 FIAT PUNTO wiring engine

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
1 General information and precautions
General information The engine electrical system consists mainly of the charging and starting systems. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are covered separately from the body electrical devices such as the Ilght3, Instalments, etc (which are covered In Chapter 12). On petrol engine models refer to Part B for information on the ignition system, and on diesel models refer to Part C for information on the preheating system. The electncal system Is of 12-volt negative earth type. The battery fitted as original equipment is of maintenance* free (sealed for life} type and Is charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley. If a non-original battery is fitted It may be of standard or low maintenance type. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type Incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.
Precautions Further details of the various systems are given In the relevant Sections of this Chapter. While some repair procedures are given, the usual course of action is to renew the component concerned. The owner whose interest extends beyond mere component renewal should obtain a copy of the Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems Manual, available from the publishers of this manual It Is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semiconductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, observe the following when working on the system: Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitlve discharge could occur If a component's live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty bum. Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator, electronic control units, or any other components having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged. If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive-to-posibve and negative-to-
negative (see Jump starting). This also applies when connecting a battery charger but In this case both of the battery terminals should first be disconnected. Never disconnect the battery terminals, the alternator, any electrical wiring or any test Instalments when the engine Is running. Do not allow the engine to turn the alter-nator when the alternator Is not connected. Never test for alternator output by flashing the output lead to earth. Never use an ohmmeter ot the type Incorporating a hand-cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing. Always ensure that the battery negative lead is disconnected when working on the electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding equipment on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator and components such as the fuel Injection/ignition electronic control unit to protect them from the risk of damage. Several systems fitted to the vehicle require battery power to be available at all times, either to ensure their continued operation (such as the clock) or to maintain control unit memories or security codos which would be wiped if the battery were to be disconnected. To ensure that there are no unforeseen consequences of this action. Refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further Information.
2 Battery- % testing and charging
Standard and tow maintenance battery - testing 1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table, Note that the specific gravity readings assume an electrolyte temperature of 15*C (60'F); for every 10*C (18°f) below 158C (60aF) subtract 0.007, For every 108C (16'F) above 15"C (60'F) add 0.007. Ambient temperature Above 26"C Below 25DC Charged 1,210 to 1£30 1,270 to 1.290 70% charged 1.170to1.l90 1.230to1.250 Discharged 1.050toJ.070 1.110 to 1.130 2 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte In each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or more, the battery should be renewed. If the cell variation Is satisfactory but the battery is discharged, it should be charged as described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -testing 4 In cases where a sealed tor life maintenance-free battery is fitted, topplng-up and testing of the electrolyte in each cell Is not possible. The condition of the battery can therefore only be tested using a battery condition Indicator or a voltmeter. 5 Certain models may be fitted with a maintenance-free battery with a built-in charge condition Indicator. The indicator Is located in the top of the battery casing, and indicates the condition of the battery from its colour. If the Indicator shows green, then the battery is In a good state of charge. If the Indicator turns darker, eventually to black, then the battery requires charging, as described later in this Section. If Ihe indicator shows clear/yellow, then the electrolyte level in Ihe battery is too low to allow further use, and tho battery should be renewed. Do not attempt to charge, load or Jump start a battery when the indicator shows dear/yellow. 6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter, connect the voltmeter across the battery and compare the result with those given In the Specifications under 'charge condition'. The test is only accurate if the battery has not been subjected to any kind of charge for the previous six hours. If this is not the esse, switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait four to five minutes baforo testing the battery after switching off the headlights. All other electrical circuits must be switched off, so check that the doors and tailgate are fully shut when making the test, 7 It the voltage reading Is less than 12.2 voHs, then the battery Is discharged, whilst a reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates 8 partially discharged condition. 6 If the battery Is to be charged, remove It from the vehicle (Section 3) and charge it as described later In this Section.
Standard and low maintenance battery - charging Note: The following is Intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps and continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise In specific gravity Is noted over a four hour period. 10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used overnight. 11 Specially rapid boost charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in t to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating, 12 While charging the battery, note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 37.8*C(100°F),

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
Maintenance-free battery -charging Note: The following is intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 13 This battery type takes considerably longer lo fully recharge than the standard type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up
to three days. 14 A constant voltage type charger is required, tooe set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 votts wth a charger current below 25 amps. Using
mis
method, the battery should be usable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 vofts. but this Is for a partially discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can
take
considerably longer. 15 If Ihe battery is to be charged from a fully discharged state {condition reading loss lhan 12.2 volts), have it recharged by your FIAT dealer or local automotive electrician, as Ihe charge rate is higher and constant super-vision during charging Is necessary.
3 Battery -removal and refitting
Note: Refer to Disconnecting the battery in ifte Reference Section of this manual before proceeding.
Removal 1 Slacken the clamp bolts and disconnect the ctamp from the battery negative (earth) terminal. 2 Remove the insulation cover (where fitted)
and
disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
Die same
way. 3 At the base of the battery, unscrew the bolt from the battery holding clamp plate and remove the clamp plate (see Illustration). A Remove the battery from Ihe engine compartment. 5 II necessary the mounting tray may be removed by unscrewing the bolts. On diesel models it will be necessary to remove the relay guard bolts as well.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the positive terminal is connected first followed by the negative terminal.
4 Alternator/charging system - >%•> testing in vehicle
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. 1 If the ignition warning light fails to Illuminate when the ignition is switched on, first check the alternator wiring connections for security. If satisfactory, check that the warning light bulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder is secure in its location in the instrument panel. If the light still fails to illuminate, check the continuity of the warning light feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 2 If the ignition warning light Illuminates when the engine Is running, stop the engine and check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned (see Chapter 1A or 18) and that the alternator connections are secure. If all is so far satisfactory, have the alternator checked by an auto-electrician. 3 If the alternator output is suspect even though the warning light functions correctly, the regulated voltage may be checked as follows. 4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and start the engine. 5 Increase the engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and no more than 14 volts. 6 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg. the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. 7 If ihe regulated voltage is not as stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, e faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding or worn or damaged slip rings. The alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3.3 Removing the battery clamp plate
5 Alternator -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal {refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove tho right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove Ihe Inner cover from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to tho right-hand side of the engine. 4 Disconnect the cables from the rear Of the alternator (see illustration).
Petrol models 5 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebelt. Note that the position of the rpm sensor will prevent complete removal of the drivebelt from the crankshaft puiley. 6 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts then unscrew the upper slot-mounted bolt. Withdraw the alternator from the engine (see illustrations).
Diesel models 7 For additional working room, unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover then unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover.
5.4 Cable connections on the rear of the alternator
5.6a Alternator adjustment and pivot bolts (petrol engine) B Adjuster bolt C Pivot bolt 5.6b Removing the alternator (petrol engine)

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
6.4a Starter motor wiring connections (petrol engine)
8 Starter motor -removal and refitting S
Removal t Disconnect the battery negative terminal [refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
ol
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking
and Vehicle Support). 3 On petrol engines, unscrew and remove the starter motor mounting bolt located at the top ol the transmission bellhousing. Access is
8.5 Disconnecting the battery cable from the starter motor
8.4b On diesel engines, raise the plastic cover...
gained from behind the battery. 4 Working beneath the vehicle, raise the plastic cover then disconnect the wiring from the solenoid located on top of the starter motor (see illustrations). 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the positive cable from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the mounting bolts (noting the location of the support bracket on petrol engines), then withdraw the starter motor from the transmission (see illustrations).
Refitting 7 Refit the starter motor by following the removal procedure in reverse.
8.6a Starter motor mounting bolt locations (diesel engine)
8.4c ... and disconnect the solenoid trigger wire
9 Starter motor - ft* testing and overhaul ££
If the starter motor is thought lo be suspect, it should be removed from the vehicle and taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check on the cost of repairs before proceeding as il may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor.
8.6b Removing the starter motor (diesel engine)

Ignition system - petrol models 5B®3
Chapter 1A tor further information. Also check tnat tha accelerator cable is correctly adjusted
as
described in the relevant part of Chapter 4. If the engine is running very roughly, check the compression pressures and the valve clearances as descnbed In the relevant parts of Chapters 1 and 2. 2
H
these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated in the engine management circuit Into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged. The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually which is a time consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU. 3 The only Ignition system checks which can
oe
earned out by the home mechanic are those cescribed in Chapter 1A, relating to the spark plugs, and the ignition coll test descnbed In this Chapter. If necessary, the system wiring and wiring connectors can oe checked as descnbed in Chapter 12, Section 2, ensuring that the ECU wiring connector(s) have first
been
disconnected.
3 Ignition HT coil - ^ removal, testing and refitting
Removal 1 On 6-valve engines, unscrew the boll and remove the plastic cover from the left-hand
end
of the cylinder head (see Illustration). On 15-valve engines, remove the air cleaner, resonator and Inlet air duct as described in Chapter 4B. 2 Identify the two HT leads for position then disconnect them from the coil HT terminals jsee illustration). 3 Disconnect the LT wiring plug.
4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the relevant ignition coil from the end of the cylinder head,
Testing 5 Testing of the coil consists of using a multimeter set to its resistance function, to check the primary and secondary windings for continuity and resistance. Compare the results obtained to those given In the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. Note the resistance of the coil windings varies slightly according to the coil temperature; the results In the Specifications are approximate values for the coil at 20°C. 6 Check that there is no continuity between the HT lead terminals and the coil body/ mourning bracket. 7 Note that with the ignition switched on and the engine stationary, voltage will only be supplied to the ignition cotls for approx-imately 2 seconds. However, when tho engine is being cranked or running, voltage will be continually supplied. 8 If faulty, the coil should be renewed.
Refitting 9 Refitting ts a reversal of the removal procedure ensuring that the winng and HT leads are correctly reconnected (see illustration).
4 ignition timing • checking and adjustment
1 The Ignition timing is constantly being monitored and adjusted by the engine management ECU, and although it is possible to check the base ignition liming using a standard timing light It is not possible to adjust it. 2 For those wishing to check the ignition timing a stroboscope timing light will be required, and it will need to be the type which
3.1 Removing the ignition coll cover
can determine the amount of advance from the TDC markings on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel. It Is recommended that the timing mark is highlighted as follows. 3 Remove the plug from the top of the transmission then turn tho engine slowly (raise the front right-hand wheel and engage 4th gear) until the timing mark scribed on the edge of the flywheel appears in the aperture. Highlight the line with quick-drying white paint - typist's correction fluid is ideal. 4 Start the engine and run It to normal operating temperature, then stop it. 5 Connect the timing light to No 1 cylinder spark plug lead (No 1 cylinder Is at the timing belt end of the engine) as described in the timing light manufacturer's Instructions. 6 Start the engine, allowing it to idle at the specified speed (Chapter 1A), and point the timing light at the transmission housing aperture. Adjust the timing light until the TDC marks are aligned with each other and read off the amount of advance. 7 If the ignition timing is incorrect, the car should be taken to a Fiat dealer who will be able to check the system quickly using special diagnostic equipment. 8 After making the check stop the engine, disconnect the timing light and refit the plug to the transmission.
3.2 HT terminals (1) and LT wiring plugs (2) on the two ignition colls 3.9 Ignition colt connections

5C«2 Preheating system - diesel models
2.3 No 4 glow plug showing the main supply lead end the interconnecting strap 2.5 Removing a glow plug
2 Glow plugs -removal, Inspection and refitting
Removal Caution: If the preheating system has just been energised, or If tho engine has been running, the glow plugs will be very hot
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Remove Ihe air Inlet ducting from the front of the engine with reference to Chapter 4C, Section 2. 3 Unscrew the nut from the relevant glow plug lerminai(s). and recover the washer(s). Note that tho main supply cable is connected to Number 4 cylinder glow plug and an interconnecting strap lis fitted between the four plugs (see Illustration). 4 Where applicable, carefully move any obstructing pipes or wires lo one side to enable access to the relevant glow plug(s). 5 Unscrew the glow plug(s) and remove from the cylinder head (see illustration).
Inspection 8 Inspect each glow plug for physical damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can bo caused by a bad Injector spray pattern. Have the Injectors checked if this sort of damage is found. 7 If Ihe glow plugs are In good physical condition, check them electrically using a 12 volt test lamp or continuity tester as described in the previous Section. 8 The glow plugs can be energised by applying 12 volts to them to verity that they heat up evenly and In the required time. Observe the following precautions. a) Support the glow plug by clamping it carefully in a vice or selNocking pliers. Remember it will become red-hot. b) Make sura that the power supply or test lead incorporates a fuse or overload trip to protect against damage from a short-circuit. c) After testing, allow the glow plug to cool for several minutes before attempting to handle it. 9 A glow plug In good condition will start to glow red at the tip after drawing current for 5 seconds or so. Any plug which takes much longer to start glowing, or which starts
glowing in the middle instead of at the lip, « defective. Refitting 10 Refit by reversing the removal operations. Apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the plug threads and tighten Ihe glow plugs to Ihe specified torque. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the glow plug element.
3 Preheating system control unit -removal
and
refitting I
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the baffery In Ihe Reference Section of this manual). 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the relay cover located at the left-hand end of the engine. 3 Disconnect the wiring then remove the control unit from the bracket. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.