1998 FIAT PUNTO Head

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
9.31c Removing the inner timing cover
34 Working in ihe reverse of Ihe sequence shown In illustration 9.52a progressively slacken the main Internal cylinder head bolts, by halt a turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand. It will be necessary to slightly turn the camshaft in order to remove the bolt located at the rear llywheel end comer as the camshaft lobe restricts access (see illustrations). Note: Fiat recommend that the cylinder head boils should be renewed if they have been used more than 4 times. As It may not be possible to determine how many times the bolts have been used. end considering the stress to which the head bolts are under, it is highly recommended that they are renewed as a matter of course. Retain ihe washers from the old bolts as it is permissible to re-use these unless they show visible signs of distortion or damage. 35 Check that nothing remains connected to the cylinder head, then lift the head away from the cylinder block (see Illustration); seek assistance if possible, as It is a heavy assembly, especially as it is being removed complete with the manifolds and turbochargar. If preferred remove the manifolds first. 36 With the cylinder head on a work surface, unscrew the nuts securing the inlet and
3.33 Removing one of the bolts at the front of the cylinder head 9.34a Unscrewing the cylinder head bolts
ff a tapis not available, make a home-made substitute by cutting a slot (A) down the threads of one of the old cylinder head bolts. After use, the bolt head can be cut off, and the shank can then be used as an alignment dowel to assist cylinder head refitting. Cut a screwdriver slot (B) In the top of the bolt, to allow it to be unscrewed
9.34b Turn the camshaft slightly to remove the rear flywheel end comer boit exhaust manifolds and withdraw them from the studs together with the turbocharger. where applicable. 37 Recover the gasket from the studs. 38 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul refer to Chapter 2D. Preparation for refitting 39 The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also dean the piston crowns, Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper.
9.42 Checking the piston protrusion with a dial gauge
9.35 Lifting the cylinder head off of the block - note the protectors fitted to the injectors seal the water, oil and bolt holes In the cylinder block/crankcase. 40 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, (hey may be removed carefully with abrasive paper, 41 Clean out the cylinder head bolt drillings using a suitable tap, If a tap Is not available, make a home-made substitute (see Tool Tip). 42 Before refitting the cylinder head th* correct new gasket must be selected, although unless new pistons have been fitted the new cylinder head gasket will be the same thickness as the old one. The following procedure will verify the correct thickness required. Using a dial gauge positioned on the cylinder block, check the protrusion of each piston by turning the crankshalt until the relevant piston Is at TDC (see Illustration). Make a note of the protrusion for oach cylinder then add them up and divide by 4 to give a mean average protrusion, Using the following table select the correct gasket - Ihe notcnes are located on the Iront right-hand end of (he gasket.
Average piston Gasket Number protrusion thickness of notches -0.03 to -0.1 mm 1.65 mm
0.1
to 0.3 mm 1.80 mm 1 0.3 to 0.43 mm 1.95 mm 2
Caution: The cylinder head gasket Is made of special material which hardens while the engine is running. Keep the gasket sealed in Its plastic bag until Just before fitting.

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11

r
<3^
9.46a The locating dowel in the cylinder block 43 It is possible for the ptston crowns to stnke and damage the valve heads, if the camshaft is rotated v/ith the timing belt removed and the crankshaft set to TDC. For this reason, the crankshaft must be set to a position other than TDC on No t cylinder before the cylinder head is refitted. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, until all four pistons are positioned Halfway down their bores, v/ith No 1 piston on lis upstroke - approximately 90° before TDC.
Refitting 44 If the manifolds are being refitted before refitting the cylinder head proceed as follows, otherwise fit the manifolds later when the head is refitted. Ensure thai the inlet and exhaust manifold mating surfaces are completely clean, then locale the new gasket on the studs. 45 Locate the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the turbocharger, where applicable, on the studs. Refit the nuts and washers and tighten to the specified torque.
sequence
f^/f
9.52b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 and Stage 2 settings using a torque wrench
on the block 46 Lay the new head gasket on the cylinder block engaging it with the locating dowel. The word ALTO must be uppermost (see illustrations). 47 As a means of locating Ihe cylinder head accurately, cut the heads from two of the old cylinder head bolts. Cut a slot, big enough for a screwdriver blade, in the end of each bolt. These can be used as alignment dowels to assist in cylinder head refitting, however If the head is being refitted without the manifolds it is not necessary to take this action. 48 With the help of an assistant, place the cylinder head assembly centrally on the cylinder block ensuring thai the locating dowels engage with Ihe holes in the cylinder head. Check that the head gasket Is correctly seatod before allowing the full weight of the cylinder head to rest on it. 49 Where necessary, unscrew the home-made alignment dowels, using a flat bladed screwdriver. 50 The oyllnder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts in engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. 51 Carefully enter each bolt with washer into its relevant hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by hand only, until finger-tight. 52 Working progressively and In the sequence shown, first tighten the cylinder head bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see illustrations). Go round again, in the sequence shown, and tighten the bolls to the Stage 2 torque setting. 53 Once all the bolts have been tightened to their Stage 2 setting, working again in the
bolts to the Stage 3 and Stage 4 settings
9.46c The word ALTO must be uppermost
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar (see illustration). It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check tho bolt has been rotated through the correct angle during tightening. Repeat for the Stage 4 setting. 54 Refit the cylinder head front retaining bolts and tighten lo the specified torque. 55 Refit the camshaft cover together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque. 56 The remaining procedure is a reversal of the removal procedure noting the following points. a) Tighten all nut and bolts to the specified torque where given. b) When refitting the metal coolant pipe to the coolant pump, use a new O-ring (see illustration). cj Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. d) Use a new exhaust front pipe gasket. e) Refit the auxiliary dhvebeltfs) as described in Chapter 1B. f) Refer to Chapter 4C when refitting the
air
cleaner and air duct. g) Refill the cooling system and fill the engine with new oil with reference to Chapter 1B. 57 Refer to Chapter 20 when starting the engine for the first time.
9.56 Use a new O-ring on the coolant pipe before refitting it to the pump

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
10.2 Locking the flywheel using a homo* made tool
10 Flywheel - £ removal, inspection § and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission and clutch as described in Chapter 7A and 6, 2 Lock the tlywheei in position using a home-made locking tool, fabricated from a piece of scrap metal. Boll it to one of the transmission belihousing mounting holes (see illustration). Mark the position of the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note that although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel, there are two holes In the end ol the crankshaft and it Is therefore possible to locate tne flywheel 180v out resulting in the timing mark being In Ihe incorrect position. 3 Unscrew and remove the flywheol mounting bolts then lift olf the llywheel. Recover the spacer piate (see illustrations). Discard the flywheol retaining bolts: new ones must be used on refitting,
Inspection 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface >s deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywhoel must be renewed. However, H may be possible to have It surface-ground: seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If the ring gear Is bsdly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed.
Refitting 6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.
HBTiffSrl If a suitable tap Is not
Wijlilfil
available, cut two slots down HlNTi threads of one of the old 1 J flywheel bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to removo the locking compound form tho threads.
7 If the now flywheel retaining bous are not
10.8a Location dowel on the flywheel
supplied with their threads already pre* coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 8 Otter up the flywheel to the crankshaft, using the abgnment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining oolts together with the spacer plate (see Illustrations). 9 Lock the flywheel using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. 10 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking tool and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A,
11 Engine mountings -inspection and renewal
Inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal ai any point; renew Ihe mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened, 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefully levering against il to check for free ploy. Where this is not possible enlist the aid of an assistant to move the onglno/transmission back and forlh. or from side lo side, while you watch the mounting While some free play is to be
10.8b Inserting tho flywheel bolts
expected even from new components, axcessive wear should be obvious. II excessive free play Is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front ot tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vohicle support), 6 Place a trolley lack beneath the right-hand side of the engine, with a block of wood on Ihe jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the bolts securing the nght-hand mounting to the body (see illustration). 8 Unscrew the special long nut securing the mounting to Ihe engine and recover the washers.
11.7 Right-hand engine mounting viewed from below

11.15 Left-hand engine mounting viewed from below 9 lower the engine sufficiently to remove the mounting from the engine bracket. 10 Locate the new mounting in the engine bracket, refit the nut and washers and tighten securely. 11 Raise the engine and refit and tighten the mounting-to-body bolts. 12 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 13 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see
Jacking
and vehicle support). 14 Place a trolley jack beneath the trans-mission. with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine/transmission. 15 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand mounting to the body (see Illustration). 16 Unscrew the nut securing the mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 17 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 18 Locate the new mounting in the transmission bracket, refit the nut and washers and tighten securely. 19 Raise the engine and refil and tighten the mounting-to-body bolts. 20 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Rear mounting 21 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see
Jacking
and vehicle support). 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody (see illustration). 23 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 24 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from the transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 25 Unscrew the bolt and separate the bracket from the mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting is a reversal of tha removal procedure.
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11
11.22 Rear engine mounting viewed from below
12 Sump -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negativo terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-ter 1B. Where applicable, remove the screws and lower the engine undertray away from the vehicle. 4 On turbo models disconnect the turbo-charger oil drain hose from the sump (see illustration). 5 Working around the outside of the sump, progressively loosen and withdraw the sump retaining bolts. 6 Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of your hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it from underneath the vehicle. Recover and discard the sump gasket. 7 While the sump Is removed, take the opportunity to check the oil pump pick-up/strainer for signs of clogging. If necessary, clean or renew the strainer.
Refitting 8 Thoroughly clean the sump inside and out ensuring that all traces of gasket are removed from the mating surfaces of both the sump and the cylinder block/crankcase.
12.4 Turbocharger-to-sump oil drain hose
9 Ensure that the mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a little grease to the surface of the sump. This will retain the gasket in position while refitting the sump. 10 Lay the new sump gasket In position on the sump mating surface, then offer up the sump and refit the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively lo the specified torque. 11 On turbo models reconnect the turbo-charger oil drain hose. 12 Lower the vehicle to the ground then refer to Chapter 1B and refill the engine with the specified grade and quantity of oil. 13 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
13 Oil pump and pick-up tube -removal, inspection and refitting
Removal 1 The oil pump Is mounted on the timing belt end of the cylinder block and is driven by flats on the crankshaft nose. Incorporated In the oil pump body is the crankshaft oil seal. 2 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 3 Remove the sump as described in Section 12. 4 Unscrew the bolts securing Ihe pick-up tube to the bottom of the oil pump. Also unscrew the bolt securing the tube to the No 2 main bearing cap. Withdraw the tube from the oil pump and crankcase. Recover the gasket (see illustrations).
13.4a Removing the oil pump pick-up tube... 13.4b ... and gasket

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11
X
a 13.14 Fitting the new oil seal to the oil pump casing
S Unscrew the bolts securing the oil pump to Ihe front of the cylinder block and withdraw it over the nose of the crankshaft. Note the location of the bracket (see Illustration). Recover the gasket.
Inspection 8 Prise the oil seal from the front of the oil pump using a screwdriver (see Illustration). 7 Unscrew the crosshead screws and lift off the cover. The screws are tight and are best loosened using an impact driver (see illustration). S Lift out the two rotors keeping them identified for position in relation to each other (see illustrations). 9 Depress the relief valve collar, then extract the retaining plate and withdraw the seat, spring and valve (see illustrations). 10 Clean the pump thoroughly, and Inspect the rotors for signs of damage or wear. Using a feeler blade, check the wear between the outer rotor and oil pump casing. Using the feeler blade and a straight-edge, check the endptay of Ihe rotors. If the rotors are worn in excess of the specified amount given in Specifications, the oil pump should be renewed as a complete unit (see Illustrations). 11 Check the condition of the relief valve and seating - If worn excessively the pump must be renewed. 12 If the components are In good condition, reassemble the pump using a reversal of the dismantling procedure. Before fitting the cover the rotors should be oiled and the cavity
13.15 Engine oil dipstick rubber grommet in the oil pump casing between them filled with clean engine oil. Make sure the cover screws are fully tightened. 13 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the oil pump and cylinder block. 14 Dip the new oil seal in engine oil then locate it on the front of the oil pump with the sealing lips facing Inwards. Use a suitable tubular drift (or socket) to drive the seal into the oil pump casing (see illustration). 16 Examine the dipstick tube rubber grommet in the oil pump and renew il If necessary (see illustration).
Refitting 16 Smear a little engine oil on both sides of the new gasket then locate it on the cylinder block (see illustration), 17 To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is passed over the nose of the crankshaft, wrap some adhesive tape around it and lightly oil it. 18 Carefully locate the oil pump over the crankshaft taking care not to damage the oil seal then Insert the bolts loosely. Remove the adhesive tape (see Illustration). 19 Using a straight-edge, position the oil pump so that the sump mating surface Is level with the surface of the crankcase (see illustration). With the pump correctly positioned, securely tighten the bolts in an even and progressive sequence. 20 Refit the oil pick-up tube together with a new gasket, and securely tighten the mounting bolts. 21 Refit the sump with reference to Section 12.
13.16 Positioning the oil pump gasket on the cylinder block 22 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with reference to Section 5 and the timing belt with reference to Section 4. 23 When starling the engine, let it Idle until the oil pressure warning light goes out.
14 Oil cooler -removal and refitting I I
Removal 1 The oil cooler is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. First remove the front bumper as described In Chapter 11. 2 Unbolt the support bar for the radiator and oil cooler. 3 Support the oil cooler then unscrew the upper mounting boll. Lower the cooler to the extent of the hoses. 4 Position a container beneath the cooler then unscrew the Inlet and outlet union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil filter. Note the fitted positions of the hoses for correct refitting. Allow the oil to drain into the container. 5 Fully unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil cooler.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but top-up the engine oil level as necessary. Run the engine and check for leaks.
13.18 Locating the oil pump over the end of the crankshaft 13.19 Checking that the oil pump and sump mating surfaces are correctly aligned with a straight-edge

2D»1
Chapter 2 Part D:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Contents
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check... 12 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence 5 Crankshaft • removal and inspection 8 Engine overhaul • general Information .. Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and Inspection 9 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence Cylinder head - dismantling, cleaning inspection and reassembly .. 6 General Information Engine and transmission - removal, separation, connection and refitting 4 Engine and transmission removal • methods and precautions 3 Engine * Initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly 13
Degrees of difficulty
Engine overhaul - general Information 2 11 1 Main and big-end bearings - Inspection and selection 10 Pistons and connecting rods - removal, inspection, refitting and big-end bearing running clearance check 7
Easy, suftable for FaHy easy, suitable ^ FaMy difficult, ^ Difficult, suitable for % Very difficult, ^ novice with littla | for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY « experience | some experience ^ HYmechanic mechanic or professional ^
Specifications
Engine codes See Chapter 2A. 2B or ZC.
Cylinder head Camshaft bearing diameters:* Petrol engines: No
1
bearing 24.045 to 24.070 mm No 2 bearing 23.S45 to 23.570 mm No 3 bearing 24.025 to 24.070 mm Diesel engine: No
1
bearing (In right-hand side mount) 29.990to30.015mm No 2 bearing 25.545 to 25.570 mm No 3 bearing 24.045 to 24.070 mm No 4 bearing (in left-hand side mount) 23.990 to 24.015 mm Valve seat angle 45° ±5' Cam follower (tappet) running clearance In head' 0.005 to 0.050 mm Difference between swirl chamber and cylinder head surface (diesel engine only) -0.765 to 0.055 mm '
Refer
to Chapter 2B for camshaft and cam follower specifications on 1242 cc
(16-velve)
petrol engines. Valves Valve stem diameter (Inlet and exhaust): Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 6.982 to 7.000 mm 1242
CC
(16-valve) engine 5.974 to 5.992 mm Diesel engine 7.974 to 7.992 mm Valve face angle 45° 30'±5' Valve stem-to-guide clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc(B-valve) engines 0.022 to 0.05B mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.030 to 0.066 mm Diesel engine 0.030 to 0.066 mm Cam follower (tappet) sJiim sizes 3.20 to 4.70 mm In Increments of 0.05 mm Camshaft Camshaft bearing Journal diameters:' Petrol engines Diesel engine No
1
bearing 24.000 to 24.015 mm 29.945 to 29.960 mm No 2 bearing 23.500 to 23.515 mm 25.500 to 25.515 mm No 3 bearing 24.000 to 24.015 mm 24.000 to 24.015 mm No 4 bearing N/A 23.945 to 23.960 mm Camshaft bearing running clearance* 0.030 to 0.070 mm Camshaft endfloat* 0.070 to 0.250 mm 'Refer to Chapter 2B for camshaft specifications on 1242 cc
(16-valve)
enginss.
20

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade
1
43.994 to 44.000 mm Grade 2 43.988 to 43.994 mm Grade 3 43.982 to 43.988 mm 1242 cc engine: Grade
1
47.994 to 48.000 mm Grade 2 47.988 to 47.994 mm Grade 3 47.982 to 47.988 mm Diesel engine: Grade 1 52.995 to 53.004 mm Grade 2 52.986 to 52.995 mm Crankpin Journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade A 38.001 to 38.008 mm Grade 8 37.995 to 38.001 mm Grade C 37.988 to 37.995 mm 1242 cc (8-valve) engine: Grade A 42.001 to 42.008 mm Grade 8 41.995 to 42.001 mm Grade C 41.988 to 41.995 mm 1242 cc <16-valve) engine: Grade A 41.990 to 42.008 mm Diesel engine: Grade A 50.796 to 50.805 mm Grade B 50.787 to 50.796 mm Main bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.025 to 0.049 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.025 to 0.040 mm Dlese! engine 0.027 to 0.066 mm Big-end bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.024 to 0.062 mm 1242 cc (16-vaJve) engine 0.024 to 0.060 mm Diesel engine 0.026 to 0.063 mm Crankshaft endtloat: Petrol engines 0.055 to 0.265 mm Diesel engine 0.049 to 0.231 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf
t

Petrol engines Big-end bolt 41 30 Camshaft bearing caps (1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: M8x 1.25 20 15 MB 10 7 Main bearing cap: Stage 1 40 30 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Diesel engines Big-end bolt: Stage 1 25 18 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 50° Camshaft bearing caps 19 14 Camshaft side mounts 19 14 Main bearing cap 113 83 Swirl chamber to head 118 87

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.