1998 FIAT PUNTO Pipes

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

A


Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

9*12 Braking system
master cylinder mounting nuts, and tighten them securely. 10 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refit them to the correct master cylinder ports, as noted before removal, and lighten the union nuts securely. 11 Refill tha master cylinder reservoir with new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulic system as described In Section 11. 12 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly.
13 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - % renewal S§

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, 1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed, minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten the cap down onto a piece of polythene to obtain
an airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can be sealed, If required, using a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care Is taken not to allow dirt into the system) or capped immediately they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag under any union that is to be disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid-2 If a flexible hose Is to be disconnected, unscrew the brake pipe union nut before removing the spring clip which seeurea the hose to its mounting bracket. 3 To unscrew the union nuts, ll is preferable lo obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size; these are available from most large molor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but It follows that Ihe pipe and the damaged nuts must be renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union and surrounding area before disconnecting it If disconnecting a compo-
nent with more than one union, make a carefJ note of the connections before disturbing
any
of them. 4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can b« obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts and end flares in place, from Fiat dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend It to shape, following the line of the original, baton fitting It to the vehicle. Alternatively, most motor accessory shops can make up bra Ha pipes from kits, bul this requires very carefii measurement of the original, to ensure (hat the replacement is of the correct length. Tha safest answer is usually to take the original lo the shop as a pattern. 5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint. 6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses an correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they are secured in the clips or brackets provided. After fitting, remove the polythene from lbs reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system
88
described In Section 11. Wash off any split fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

10*10 Suspension and steering
12.8 Slacken and remove the two steering goar-to-subirame bolts (arrowed) 8 Disconnect the universal joint at the base of the steering column from the steering gear pinion. Note the position of tho safety clip • this must be refitted In the same position on reassembly. 9 Remove Ihe steering column from the vehicle.
Overhaul 10 The hoight adjustment mechanism can be removed by removing the nut from the end of the pivot shaft and withdrawing it. 11 The upper and lower bushes are held in position by staking at the ends of the column tube. Relieve the staking using a mallet and punch to extract the bushes. 12 Check for excessive radial and axial play In the universal joints at both ends of the lower steering column. The lower section of the steering column may be renewed separately if required, by slackening the clamp bolt and detaching It from the upper section. 13 If the vehicle has been Involved in an accident, check for deformation In all ol the steering column components, particularly the mounting bracket and centre tube. Renew as required.
Refitting 14 Refitting the steering column is by following the removal procedure in reverse. Tighten all fixings to Ihe specified torque setting.
12 ManuaJ steering fk gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front road wheels. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reference to Section 11. slacken the clamp boil at the base of steering column lower universal |o!nt, to separate it rrom the steering gear pinion.
12.9 Unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (arrowed) 4 Remove the safety clip from the steering gear pinion, noting Its fitted position to aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and dotach the track* rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, using a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the clips and detach the gear selection cable and the reverse gear inhibitor cable from the steenng gear. 7 Delach the gear selector rod from the top of the steering gear, 8 Slacken and remove the two steering gear-to-subframe bolts (see Illustration) 9 Support the underside of the transmission using a trolley jack, then unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (see illustration) 10 With reference to Chapter 4D. unbolt the front section of the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. 11 Unclip the plastic steenng gear pinion cup from ihe bulkhead. 12 Withdraw the steenng gear through the wheel arch.
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following: a) Tighten all fixings lo the specified torque settings. b) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest opportunity by a Fiat dealer or a tyro specialist.
13.10 Disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes (arrowed) from the power steering gear
13 Power steering * gear assembly - J removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply tN handbrake, then jack up the front ot thi vehicle and support securely on axle standi (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front roadwheels to improve access. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In tto Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reforence to Section 11, slacken ihe clamp bolt at the base of steering cohimn lower universal joint, to separate ll from Ihe steering gear pinion. 4 Remove the safety clip from the steenng gear pinion, noting its fitted position lo aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound Insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and detach the track-rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, usty a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, ranwvi the clips and detach the power steering fluid pipe from the steering gear casing. 7 With reference to Chapter 40, unboil lbs front section of the exhaust pipe from the manifold and catalytic converter/intermediate silencer (as applicable). 8 Refer to Chaptor 7A and disconnect the gear selector rod from the relay rod Disconnect the relay rod from the mounting on the top of the steering gear casing. 9 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or
an
old poultry baster. 10 Slacken the unions and disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes from the power steering gear. Be prepared for an amount
erf
fluid loss - position a container underneath the unions and pad the surrounding area wth absorbent rags (see Illustration). 11 Slacken and remove the two sleeting gear-to-subframe bolts (see illustrations). 12 Support the engine and tronsmission assembly using either blocks of wood positioned under the transmission casing,
or a
lifting beam positioned across the engine
bay

13.11a Slacken and remove the right-hand...

11 *2 Bodywork and fittings
on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior lo Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection Is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois feather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish wilt give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has duiled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling Is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish, Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated In the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Nover use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.
Maintenance -upholstery and carpets
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush lo scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get Into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.
If the Inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, tt Is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry ft out property, particularly where carpets an involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage -repair
Repairs of minor scratches In bodywork If the scratch Is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish, Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to ihe scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint In the scratch Is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow Ihe new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it Into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique Is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in Ihe scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch: this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier In this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork When deop denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to put) the dent out. until the affected bodywork almost attains rts onginal shape. There is little polnl in trying to restore Ihe original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It Is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where Ihe dent is very shallow anyway, It is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head, Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against (he outside of Ihe panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out".
Should the dent be In a section of (I* bodywork which has a double skin, or seme other factor making It Inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Dull several small holes through the metal inside Ihe area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws Into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair Is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a posver drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal wflhi screwdriver or the tang of 8 file, or alternatively, drill small holes In the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad
or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper wil do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expansive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from Ihe affected area, except those which will act as a guide to ttie original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips
or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal snd any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filer paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove tha powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint Ihe affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the beck of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, ft will be necessary to block the hole in some
way.
TNs can be achieved by the use of aluminium cr plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to tha approximate size and shape of tho hole to b« filled, then position it In the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by