1998 FIAT PUNTO Head

Suspension and steering 10*13
the skill required to use It properly, the checking and adjustment of these settings Is best left to a Fiat dealer or similar expert. Most tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated checking equipment. 3 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be at the kerb weight specified in Dimensions and weights. 4 Before starting work, check first that the tyre sizes and types are as specified (see Tyre pressures in Weekly checks), then check tyre pressures and tread wear. Also check roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub bearings, the steering wheel free play and the condition of the front suspension components (Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or
1B).
Correct any faults found. 6 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the front roadwheeis in the straight-ahead position. Rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake and roll the vehicle backwards approximately 1 metre, then forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the steering and suspension components. 6 Two methods are available to the home mechanic for checking the front wheel toe setting. One method is to use a gauge to measure the distance between the front and rear inside edges of the roadwheeis. The other method is to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel is rolled across a movable plate which records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the straight-ahead position as It moves across the plate. Such gauges are available in relatively-inexpensive form from accessory outlets. It Is up to the owner to decide whether the expense is justified, In view of the small amount of use such equipment would normally receive. 7 Prepare the vehicle 8S described in paragraphs 3 to 5 above.
8 If the measurement procedure is being used, carefully measure the distance between the front edges of the roadwheel rims and the rear edges of the rims. Subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement, and check that the result is within the specified range. If not, adjust the toe setting as described in paragraph 10. 9 If scuff plates are to be used, roll the vehicle backwards, check that the roadwheeis are in the straight-ahead position, then roll it across the scuff plates so that each front roadwheel passes squarely over the centre of its respective plate. Note the angle recorded by the scuff plates. To ensure accuracy, repeat the check three times, and take the average of the three readings, if the roadwheeis are running parallel, there will of course be no angle recorded; If a deviation value Is shown on the scuff plates, compare the reading obtained for each wheel with that supplied by the scuff plate manufacturers. If the value recorded is outside Ihe specified tolerance, the toe setting is incorrect, and must be adjusted as follows. Adjustment 10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record the number of exposed threads on the right-hand track-rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threads on the left-hand side. If there are the same number of threads visible on both sides, then subsequent adjustment should be made equally on both sides. If there are more threads visible on one side than the other, it will be necessary to compensate for this during adjustment Note: It is important to ensure that, after adjustment, the same number of threads are visible on the end of each track-rod.
11 First clean the track-rod threads; If they are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before starting adjustment. Release the steering gear rubber gaiter outboard clips, then peel back the gaiters and apply a smear of grease, so that both gaiters are free and will not be twisted or strained as their respective track-rods are rotated. 12 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or similar to mark the relationship of each track-rod to the track-rod end. Working on each track-rod end in tum, unscrew its locking nut. 13 Alter the length of the track-rods, bearing In mind the note in paragraph 10, by screwing them into or out of the track-rod ends. Rotate the track-rod using an open-ended spanner fitted to the flats provided. If necessary, counterhold the track-rod end using a second spanner. Shortening the track-rods (screwing them Into their track-rod ends) will reduce toe-in and increase toe-out. 14 When the setting Is correct, hold the track-rods and securely tighten the locking nuts. Check that the balljoints are seated correctly In their sockets, and count the exposed threads on the ends of the track-rods. If the number of threads exposed is not the same on both sides, then the adjustment has not been made equally, and problems will be encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer be horizontal when the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 15 When the track-rod lengths are the same, lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check the toe setting; readjust if necessary. When the setting is correct, tighten the locking nuts. Ensure that the steering gear rubber gaiters are seated correctly and are not twisted or strained, then secure them In position with new retaining clips.
10

11 *2 Bodywork and fittings
on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior lo Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection Is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois feather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish wilt give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has duiled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling Is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish, Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated In the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Nover use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.
Maintenance -upholstery and carpets
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush lo scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get Into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.
If the Inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, tt Is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry ft out property, particularly where carpets an involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage -repair
Repairs of minor scratches In bodywork If the scratch Is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish, Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to ihe scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint In the scratch Is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow Ihe new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it Into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique Is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in Ihe scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch: this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier In this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork When deop denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to put) the dent out. until the affected bodywork almost attains rts onginal shape. There is little polnl in trying to restore Ihe original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It Is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where Ihe dent is very shallow anyway, It is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head, Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against (he outside of Ihe panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out".
Should the dent be In a section of (I* bodywork which has a double skin, or seme other factor making It Inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Dull several small holes through the metal inside Ihe area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws Into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair Is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a posver drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal wflhi screwdriver or the tang of 8 file, or alternatively, drill small holes In the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad
or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper wil do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expansive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from Ihe affected area, except those which will act as a guide to ttie original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips
or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal snd any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filer paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove tha powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint Ihe affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the beck of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, ft will be necessary to block the hole in some
way.
TNs can be achieved by the use of aluminium cr plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to tha approximate size and shape of tho hole to b« filled, then position it In the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by

11 *4 Bodywork and fittings
6.3s Remove the screws... 6.3b ... and lower the front section of the plastic wheel arch liners away from the bodywork
6 Front bumper -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Access to the front bumper mountings may be Improved by raising the front ot Ihe vehicle and resting it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), 2 Remove the direction indicator units from both front wings, as described In Chapter 12. Section 6. 3 Remove the screws and lower both plastic wheel arch liners away from the bodywork (see Illustrations), 4 Reach inside the wheel arch and remove the retaining screws from the trailing edges of Ihe bumper moulding (see illustration). 5 Slacken and withdraw the four screws from
6.S Slacken and withdraw the four screws from the lower edge of the bumper the lower edge of the bumper (see illustration). 6 Support Ihe bumper moulding, then remove the four retaining bolts from the upper edge of the bumper (located eithor side of the headlight units) (see Illustration).
7.4 Slacken and withdraw tho four screws 7.5 Remove the four retaining bolts from from the lower edge of the bumper the upper edge of the bumper
6.4 Remove the retaining screws (arrowed) from the trailing odges of the bumper moulding
6.6 Remove the retaining bolts (arrowed) from either side of (he headlight units 7 Where applicable, unplug the wiring from the rear of tho fogiamp units. 8 Unclip any electrical cabling securea to tne rear side of Ihe bumper and then carefully draw the bumper away from fhe front ot the vehicle.
Refitting 9 The bumper is refitted by following the removal procedure in reverse.
7 Rear bumper
-
% removal and refitting
Removal 1 Access to the rear bumper mountings may be improved by raising the rear of the vehicle and resting it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), 2 After removing the retaining screws and nuts, lower both rear wheel arch plastic liners away from the bodywork (see Illustration) ( 3 Reach Inside the rear wheel arches and remove the retaining screws from the leading edges ot the bumper moulding (see illustration). 4 Stackon and withdraw the four screws from the lower edge of the bumper (see illustration). 1 5 Support the bumper moulding, then remove the four retaining bolts from the upper edge ol the bumper (see illustration). 6 Unclip any electrical cabling that may Dt secured to the inside of ihe bumper, thM carefully draw the bumper off its guide brackets and away from the rear ot the vehicle.

Bodywork and fittings
11
*7
12.4 Adjusting the extension of the bonnet pin
12 Bonnet lock components - ^ removal and refitting H
Latch and release lever assembly
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet In the fully open position using the stay. Mark the relationship between the latch and the surface of the bonnet using a soft pencil or marker pen. 2 Slacken and unscrew the bolts, then lower the latch assembly away from the bonnot. Refitting 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely. 4 The extension of the bonnet pin may be adjusted in necessary, by slackening the locknut and turning the pin with a flat-bladed screwdriver (see illustration).
Striker plate
Removal 5 Mark the relationship between the striker plate and the bodywork using a soft pencil or marker pen. The striker plate can then be removed by slackening and withdrawing the three securing bolts and unhooking the release cable from the operating lever. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely.
Suffers 7 If necessary, adjust the protrusion of the rubber buffers on the front crossmember, (located above each headlamp unit) by screwing them in or out as appropriate. When the rubber buffers are correctly adjusted, there should be just enough free movement to
14.3a Remove the screw .
allow the bonnet to be closed and locked easily, without using excessive force, but not enough to allow the bonnet to rattle when secured in the locked position.
13 Bonnet release cable -removal and refitting I
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet in the fully open position. With reference to Section 12, detach Ihe bonnet release cable from the striker plate operating lever. 2 Unscrew the cable clip from above the nght hand headlamp unit. 3 Working around the engine bay, extract the release cable from its securing clips. 4 In the drivers footweil, extracl Ihe fixings and lower the sound insulation panel (where fitted) away from the underside of the steering column/facia. 5 Push the bonnet release handle towards the bulkhead slightly, then free the release cable end fitting from its recess in the handle. Lift the cable inner up, pass the end fitting through the larger hole and withdraw it from the handle. Extract the release cable outer from the mounting bracket by carefully pulling down on the plastic collar. 6 Release the cable from the remaining clips under the facia, then carefully pull the entire cable through the bulkhead grommet Info the engine bay.
14.3b ... then prise out the door grab handle moulding
Refitting 7 Refit the cable by reversing the removal process. On completion, close the bonnet to check that it locks securely, then check the operation of tho release mechanism. If adjustment is required, this can be achieved by repositioning the slotted plastic collar fitted to the cable outer sheath, in the mounting lug on the underside of the striker plate.
14 Door inner trim panel -removal and refitting I
Removal Note: This section describes the removal of the front door trim panel; the procedure for removing the rear door trim panel is essentially the same, 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 With reference to Section 17. remove the trim panel from the rear of the door mirror fixings. 3 Lift off the caps and remove the screw, then prise out the door grab handle moulding (see Illustrations) 4 Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest and unplug the wiring connector(s). Label them to aid correct refitting later (see illustrations).
14.4a Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest... 14.4b ... and unplug the wiring connector

11 *12 Bodywork and fittings
switch panel, then remove the panel from the facia (see illustration). Label tho wiring connector to aid refitting, then unplug It. 0 Work along the lower edge of Ihe facia and remove all the securing screws; there are three on the drivers side and three on the passenger side - one is concealed inside the glove compartment, behind a plastic cap. 10 Wilh reference to Chapter 12, remove the cover and open the main fuse box. Where applicable, unscrew the fixings that secure the electronic control unit to Its mounting bracket. Remove the facia mounting bolts located adjacent to the mounting bracket (see illustration). 11 Refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the steering column from Its support bracket, allowing the column to rest in the footwell. There is no need to slacken the clamp bolt at Ihe base of the steering column to separate it from the steering gear. 12 With reference to Chapter 12, remove front right and left speaker grilles. Remove the two facis upper mounting screws ihat are now exposed. Similarly, prise open the plastic cover from centre of upper edge of the fada and remove the mounting screw behind. 13 Carefully pull whole facia moulding forward away from tho bulkhead slightly. Label all wiring connectors to aid correct refitting later, then unplug Ihem. Check that nothing remains connected between the facia and bulkhead then draw the facia moulding away and remove It from the vehicle.
20.8 Remove the bolt (arrowed) and detach the backrest from the mounting bracket
Refitting 14 Refit the facia by following the removal procedure in reverse, noting the following points: a) Reinstate all electrical connections according to (he labels made during removal and ensure that cables are secured in their clips, using the origins/ routing. b) Ensure thai all ventilation ducting locates correctly over the rear of the grilles before tightening the facia retaining screws. c) On completion, reconnect the battery negative cable and chock the operation of all controls, gauges and Instruments disturbed during the removal process, Including the ventilation/heating system.
20 Seats -removal and refitting JS:
Front seats
Removal

A


Warning: On models with seat belt pre-tonsionors, entrust the work of seat removal to a Flat dealer. DQNOTattempt to remove the seat on vehicles so equipped. 1 The front seats frames are secured to the fioorpan by four bolts. Whero applicable, prise out the caps from the plastic trim panel lo expose the bolt heads. 2 Slide the seat towards the rear of the car to gain access to the two bolts at the front, Ihen slacken and withdraw them. 3 Slide Ihe seat fully forwards and remove the two rearmost bolls. 4 Ufl the seat out of the cabin area.
(arrowed) located adjacent to the control unit mounting bracket Refitting 5 Refil the seat by reversing the remove! procedure. Rear seat back rests
Removal 6 Using the hand straps, raise the seal cushion and lilt it fully forward. 7 The rear seat back rests are mounted or hinged brackets which aro boiled to Ihe fioorpan. To remove both back rests together, first remove the screws and detach the load space carpet panel. 8 Unbolt the back rest panel from the mounting brackets (see illustration). Refitting 9 Refit tho back rests by reversing Ihe removal procedure. Rear seat cushion
Removal 10 Using the hand straps, raise the seat cushion and tilt it fully forward. 11 Remove ihe screws Ihat secure Ihe hinged brackets to tho fioorpan. then lift out the cushion (see illustration}. Refitting 12 Refit the seat cushion by reversing Ihe removal procedure.
20.11 Remove the screws (arrowed) that secure the hinged brackets to the fioorpan

10*1
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Contents
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal 4 Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal 5 Electrical fault finding - general information 2 Exterior light units - removal and refitting 6 Fuses and relays - general Information 3 General information and precautions 1 Headlight beam alignment • general Information 6 Horn • removal and refitting 9 Instrument panel - removal and refitting 7 Loudspeakers - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty
Radio aerial - removal and refitting 11 Radio/cassette player • removal and refitting 12 Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting 13 Switches - removal end refitting 14 Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting 15 Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting 17 Windscreen/tailgate washer system components • removal and refitting 16 Wiper arm • removal and refitting 18

Easy,
statable for ^
novice with liffle
|| experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable for beginner with ^ some experience ^
Fabtycffficiit,
suitable
for competent ^
DIY
mechanic ^

Difficult, suitable for
^ experienced DIY JR mechanic

Very difficult,
A,
suitable
for
expert DIY
Sj or professional ^
Specifications
Bulb ratings Watts Headlights 60/55 Front long range driving light 55 Front fogllght 55 Front direction Indicator light 21 Front sidelight 5 Front direction indicator repeater light 5 Stop light 21 Tall light 5 Rear direction indicator light 21 Reversing light 21 near fogllght 21 Hear number plate light 5 Courtesy light 10 Map reading light 5
1 Genera! information and precautions

A


Warning: fie/Ore carrying out any work on the electrical system, read through the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, and in Chapter 8. The electrical system is of 12-volt negative earth type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid type battery, which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that, prior to working on any component In the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires. Caution: Before proceeding, refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further information.
2 Electrical fault finding-general information
Note: Refer to the precautions given In Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing ot the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as antHock braking systems), particularly where an electronic con fro/ module is used.
General 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors which link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help to pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are Included at the end of this manual. 2 Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram, to obtain a more complete understanding of the components included In the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed down by noting whether other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fait at one time, the problem Is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection.

Body electrical systems 12*3
3.4 The auxiliary fusebox, located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel auxiliary fusebox, which is located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel (see Illustration). 5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 6 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 7 Using the plastic tool clipped to the main fusebox lid, pull the fuse from its location. 8 Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating (fuse ratings are specified on the inside of the fusebox cover flap). Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are colour-coded as follows. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 5A Red 10A Blue 15A Yellow 20A Clear or White 25A Green 30A 11 The radio/cassette player fuse is located In the rear of the unit, and can be accessed after removing the radio/cassette player -refer to Section 12for greater detail.
Relays 12 A relay is an electncally-operated switch, which Is used for the following reasons: 4 A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)
A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 13 The main and optional equipment relays are located in the main and auxiliary toseboxes (see Fuses). A number of additional relays may be fitted, depending on model and specification. These are generally mounted
3.5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire adjacent lo the component being controlled; e.g. the radiator cooling fan relay(s) are mounted on a bracket next the cooling fan itself. 14 The direction Indicator/hazard warning flasher unit is mounted on the underside of the steering column slalk switch unit. It can be accessed by removing the steering column lower shroud panel (see illustration). 15 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised, if this is Ihe case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 16 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.
4 Buibs (exterior lights) -renewal
General 1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note the following points:
3.14 Removing the direction indlcator/ha2ard warning flasher unit
a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. b) Remember that, if the circuit has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) A/ways check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and its live contacts) and earth. Clean off
any
corrosion or dirt before fitting a nevt bulb. d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts) bear firmly against the bulb contact. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating (see Specifications), and that it is completely clean before fitting it; this applies particularly to headlight/foglight bulbs (see following
0 Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs) • incorrect fitting will cause the filaments to illuminate In the wrong sequence.
Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Ensure that the headlights are turned off at the stalk switch. Models with single reflector 3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit (see Illustration).
4.3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb 4.4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit

12*4 Body electrical systems
4.5 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release the clip from the rear erf the bulb
5 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release Ihe clip Irom the rear of the bulb {see illustration) 6 Withdraw the bulb (see illustration). Models with twin reflectors 7 Unclip Ihe cover from the rear of the headlight unit. Note that the light unit houses three bulbholders; one tor the combined main/dipped beam bulb, one for the long range main beam bulb and one for the sidelight bulb. 8 Pull Ihe wiring plug from the rear ol Ihe bulb. 9 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release tho clip from the rear of the bulb 10 Withdraw Ihe bulb. All models 11 When handling the new bulb, use a tissue
4.21 Unhook the light unit spring clip from the recess in the inner wing
4 6 Withdraw Ihe bulb
or clean cloth, to avoid touching Ihe glass wilh Ihe lingers; moisture and grease from the skin can cause blackening and rapid failure of this type of bulb. If the glass is accidentally touched, wipe it clean using methylated spirit. Avoid knocking or shaking the bulb as this may weaken the filament. 12 Install the new bulb, using a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring that its locating tabs are correctly located in tho light unit cut-outs. Secure the bulb in position with Ihe retaining clip.
Sidelight
Models with single reflector 13 Open the bonnet. Ensure Ihat the sidelights are turned off at ihe stalk switch. 14 Twist the bulbholder lo release it from the rear of tho light unit (see illustration) 15 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 16 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. Models with twin reflectors 17 Unclip the cover from Ihe rear of Ihe headlight unit. Note that Ihe light unit houses three bulbholders; one for the combined main/ dipped beam bulb, one for the long range main beam bulb and one (or the sidelight bulb. 18 Twist the bulbholder to release il from the rear of the light unit. 19 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 20 Fit Ihe new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure.
4.14 Twist the bulbholder to release it from tho rear of tho light unit
Front direction indicator 21 Open the bonnet. Unhook tho light unit spring clip from the recess in the innsr wing, directly behind ihe indicator lighl unit (see illustration). 22 Pull the light unit forwards liom its housing. 23 Twist ihe bulbholder anti-clockwise and withdraw It from the light unit (see illustration). 24 The bulb is a bayonet fit in the bulbbdoer. 25 Fit the new bulb, then refil tho fight assembly using a reversal of Ihe remove! procedure. Ensure that the pegs on the side ol the lighl unit engage with the lugs in the side of the headlight unit and the body panel (see illustration). Hook the retaining spring clip securely Into the recess in the Inner
wing.

Front direction indicator
side
repeater 26 Slide the light unit towards the from
ol
the vehicle slightly, then insert a plastic Implement behind the rear edge of the unit and lever it oul ot the wing aperture (see illustration). 27 Withdraw the light unit. Ihen twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise to release
H
from the light unit (see illustration). 28 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 29 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of trie removal procedure.
4.26 Slide the light unit towards the front
of
the vehicle slightly, then Insert a plastic implement behind the rear edge
4.23 Twist the bulbholder anticlockwise and withdraw It from the light unit
4.25 Ensure that the pegs (arrowed) on tho sido of tho tight unit engage with the lugs In the side of the headlight unit and the body panel