1998 DODGE RAM 1500 lock

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the brake light switch and discard
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the adjustable pedal cables from the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(6) Unclip the cable fasteners to the support.
(7) Remove the one mounting bolt for the adjust-
able pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
(2) Install the one mounting bolt for the adjustable
pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(3) Clip the cable fasteners to the support.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector.
(5) Reconnect the adjustable pedal cables to the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(6) Install the new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(7) Install the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(9) Check for proper operation of the pedals.
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - CABLES
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 4 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Brake Booster
Mounting Nuts28 21 250
Master Cylinder
Mounting Nuts18 Ð 160
Caliper
Mounting Pins
Front32 24 Ð
Caliper
Mounting Pins
Rear15 11 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Front
LD176 130 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Front
HD339 250 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Rear
LD135 100 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Rear
HD197 145 Ð
Junction Block
Bolts To Frame10 7.5 Ð
Brake Pedal Assembly
Bracket
Nuts28 21 Ð
Support Plate
Mounting Bolts/Nuts64 47 Ð
Brake Line Fittings
Master Cylinder19 14 170
Brake Line Fittings
Junction Block19 14 170
Caliper
Brake Line Banjo Bolt
Front27 20 245
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEDR

(6) Remove the caliper slide bolts (Fig. 28).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
29).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 30).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
Fig. 26 DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - CALIPER MOUNTING ADAPTER
4 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
Fig. 27 8 LUG ROTOR & CALIPER ASSEMBLY
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - ANTI-RATTLE CLIPS
4 - BRAKE HOSE WITH BANJO BOLT
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
6 - OUTBOARD BRAKE PAD
Fig. 28 DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REAR
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - CALIPER SLIDE BOLTS
4 - BRAKE HOSE
5 - CABLE
6 - CALIPER
7 - ROTOR
8 - ANTI-RATTLE CLIPS
Fig. 29 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 31).
(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 32).CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while remov-
ing the seals.
(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 33).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
Fig. 30 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
Fig. 31 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 32 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 33 Bushings And Boot Seals
1 - CALIPER
2 - BUSHING
3 - BOOT SEAL
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 19
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(3) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(4) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 66).
(5) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 41).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Install the prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the reservoir cap and siphon fluid into
a drain container (Fig. 42).
(3) Remove the electrical connector from the fluid
level switch in the reservoir (Fig. 42).
(4) Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (Fig. 42).
Fig. 41 FLUID LEVEL TYPICAL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

(5) Remove the reservoir from the master cylinder
by pulling upwards.
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body (Fig.
42).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(1) Lubricate the new grommets with clean brake
fluid and Install new grommets in cylinder body. Use
finger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(2) Start the reservoir in grommets. Then rock the
reservoir back and forth while pressing downward to
seat it into the grommets.
(3) Install the mounting bolt for the reservoir to
the master cylinder.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector to the fluid
reservoir level switch.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the brake lines from the junction block
(Fig. 43).
(2) Remove the junction block mounting bolt and
remove the junction block from the bracket (Fig. 43).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the junction block on the bracket and
install the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt
to 23 N´m (210 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(2) Install the brake lines into the junction block
and tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(3) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits and has a switch for indicat-
ing low fluid levels. The reservoir is the only service-
able component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
Fig. 42 FLUID RESERVOIR
1 - MASTER CYLINDER CAP
2 - FLUID RESERVOIR
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
6 - GROMMETS
Fig. 43 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - BRAKE LINES
2 - JUNCTION BLOCK
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEDR
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)

HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour thereshould be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 54).
²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
Fig. 54 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEDR