1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Front suspension

(7) Connect track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
(8) Install shock absorber and tighten bolts to 121
N´m (89 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install stabilizer bar link to the axle bracket.
Tighten the nut to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles and tighten the nuts to 108 N´m (80 ft.
lbs.).
(11) Install ABS wheel speed sensors.
(12) Install rotors and brake calipers.
(13) Connect the axle vent hose.
(14) Install front propeller shaft.
(15) With vehicle on the ground, tighten upper
suspension arm nuts at axle to 149 N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
Tighten upper suspension arm nuts at frame to 149
N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(16) With vehicle on the ground, tighten lower sus-
pension arm nuts at axle to 190 N´m (140 ft. lbs.).
Tighten the lower suspension arm nuts at frame to
190 N´m (140 ft. lbs.).
(17) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(18) Check front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets. Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim. located between the rear
pinion bearing and pinion gear head.
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT AND ADJUSTMENT
Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups
and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
measurements with Pinion Gauge Set and Dial Indi-
cator C-3339 (Fig. 6).
(1) Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739, Pinion
Block 8878 and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741
(Fig. 6).
(2) Insert assembled height gauge components,
rear bearing and screw into the housing through pin-
ion bearing cups (Fig. 7).
(3) Install front pinion bearing and Cone-Nut 6740
onto the screw. Tighten cone-nut until Torque To
Rotate the screw is 1.7-2.26 N´m (15-20 in. lbs.).
(4) Place Arbor Disc 8289 on Arbor D-115-3 in posi-
tion in the housing side bearing cradles (Fig. 8).
(5) Install differential bearing caps on arbor discs
and snug the bearing cap bolts. Then cross tighten
cap bolts to 85 N´m (63 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Arbor should rotate freely in the arbor disc.
(6) Assemble Dial Indicator C-3339 into Scooter
Block D-115-2 and secure set screw.(7) Position Scooter Block/Dial Indicator flush on
the pinion height block. Hold scooter block and zero
the dial indicator.
Fig. 6 PINION GEAR DEPTH GAUGE TOOLS
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - ARBOR
3 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
4 - CONE
5 - SCREW
6 - PINION BLOCK
7 - SCOOTER BLOCK
8 - ARBOR DISC
Fig. 7 PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
1. PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
2. PINION BLOCK
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 59
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the caliper adapter bolts (Fig.
61).(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER -
REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the retaining clips and rotor assembly
(Fig. 61).
REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS
(1) Raise and support the vehicle
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the caliper adapter bolts.
(5) Remove the rear axle shaft from the housing
on dual rear wheels, (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL &
DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 286RBI/AXLE SHAFTS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the hub and rotor assembly (C3500
only) (Fig. 62).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Install the rotor onto the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
(3) Install the caliper adapter assembly,(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and tighten
adapter bolts to:
(4) Install the wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) and lower the vehicle.
(5) Apply the brakes several times to seat brake
pads. Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving
vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Install the rotor to the axleshaft (Fig. 61).
Fig. 60 8 LUG ROTOR ASSEMBLY
1 - SPRING
2 - SHOCK
3 - UPPER AND LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS
4 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - ROTOR
Fig. 61 REAR ROTOR
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 62 ROTOR / HUB REMOVAL
5 - 34 BRAKES - BASEDR
ROTORS (Continued)

(3) Install the bolts attaching headlamp unit to the
fender (Fig. 11).
(4) Align the seal and install the push pins.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
Headlamps can be aligned using the screen method
provided in this section.
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 12).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Up 1.27 meters (5 feet) from the floor, tape a
line on the wall at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from rear of vehi-
cle forward) to verify accuracy of the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to thealignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment.
(3) Verify proper tire inflation.
(4) Clean headlamp lenses.
(5) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(6) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
A properly aimed low beam headlamp will project
top edge of high intensity pattern on screen from 50
mm (2 in.) above to 50 mm (2 in.) below headlamp
Fig. 12 Headlamp Alignment Screen - Typical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE
2 - CENTER OF HEADLAMP3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FT.)
4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
8L - 16 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORDR
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Align the holes in the bumpers to the trailer
hitch pins and install the bumper.
(2) Install the support bracket to the hitch bolts,
loosely.
(3) Install the front upper edge to the trailer hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the license plate reinforcement to hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Tighten the left bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten the right bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Connect the trailer light connector electrical
connection, if equipped.
(8) Connect the license plate light electrical con-
nectors.
(9) Install the license plate.
FRAME
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN GRIND-
ING OR WELDING METAL, SERIOUS EYE INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH FRAME REPAIR
INVOLVING GRINDING OR WELDING, VERIFY THAT
VEHICLE FUEL SYSTEM IS NOT LEAKING OR IN
CONTACT WITH REPAIR AREA, PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²DO NOT ALLOW OPEN FLAME OR HEAT AND
METAL SPATTER FROM ARC WELDING, TO CON-
TACT PLASTIC BODY PANELS. FIRE OR EXPLO-
SION CAN RESULT.
²WHEN WELDED FRAME COMPONENTS ARE
REPLACED, ENSURE COMPLETE PENETRATION
WELD IS ACHIEVED DURING INSTALLATION. IF
NOT, DANGEROUS OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN
RESULT.
²STAND CLEAR OF CABLES OR CHAINS ON
PULLING EQUIPMENT DURING FRAME STRAIGHT-
ENING OPERATIONS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
²DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHI-
CLE THAT IS NOT SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: 1500 series Dodge Ram Trucks (2002 and
later) are not designed for snow plow equipment.The front collision repair tips must not be installed
on any truck equipped with a snow plow, or even
intended to be equipped with a snow plow.
CAUTION: Do not reuse damaged fasteners, quality
of repair would be suspect. Failure to use only pro-
duction fasteners or fasteners of equivalent hard-
ness can result in loosening or failure. Do not drill
any holes in the frame that are not specifically out-
lined in this or other, DaimlerChrysler procedure as
frame rail failure can result. When using heat to
straighten frame components do not exceed 566ÉC
(1050ÉF), metal fatigue can result.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LIGHT DUTY FRONT
FRAME RAIL TIP REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: This procedure is designed to replace
the front frame rail tips that have been damaged in
the crush initiator zones. Prior to any cutting, the
vehicle must be mounted on the appropriate frame
repair equipment (ªframe rackº), checked with three
dimensional measuring equipment, and the neces-
sary pull corrections made. If damage remains in
the frame beyond the area covered by this service
part after the pull, the frame must be replaced in its
entirety.
NOTE: Procedures for 4X2 and 4X4 are common
except as noted in this procedure.
(1) Before proceding with this repair procedure
review the required service warnings and precau-
tions. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME -
WARNING)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts and position aside the wire
harness and grounds, if required.
(5) Remove the front bumper. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT BUMPER
- REMOVAL)
(6) Loosen and lower the stabilizer bar mount and
bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABI-
LIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
13 - 4 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
REAR BUMPER (Continued)

(7) Remove the front cab mount bolt to the Front
End Sheet Metal (FESM) bracket. (Fig. 5)
(8) Make a vertical mark on the inside and outside
face of the frame rail 112 mm (4.5 in.) from the for-
ward edge of the PLP hole in the sides of the rail.
(Fig. 7)
(9) Using a straightedge, connect the two lines on
the top and bottom of the rail.
(10) Using the service tip as a guide, re-check your
cut lines to ensure the service tip will fit when the
cut is made.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. This
is due to the inaccurate nature of the cut-line and
the fact that the high temperatures achieved duringflame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(11) Using a reciprocating saw or equivalent, care-
fully cut and remove the damaged frame rail tip.
(Fig. 6)
(12) Assemble the service sleeve. Refer to SER-
VICE SLEEVE ASSEMBLY at the end of this proce-
dure.
NOTE: Any burned surface coatings will need to be
removed from the sleeve prior to installation and
application of corrosion preventative coatings.
(13) Smooth and square the cut edges of the origi-
nal frame. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5 REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
1 - FRONT END SHEET METAL (FESM) BRACKET
2 - CAB INSULATOR
3 - RING-FILLET WELD/HOLE
4 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
5 - WELD ROOT GAP 4 mm-6mm(0.16 in. - 0.24 in.)
6 - FRONT CAB MOUNT BOLT
7 - REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
Fig. 6 FRAME CUT LOCATION
1 - REPAIR ROOT OPENING
2 - SERVICE SLEEVE
3 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
4 - SUSPENSION BRACKETS
5 - FRAME
6 - FRAME CUTOFF LOCATION - 112 mm (4.5 in.)
7 - FRAME SERVICE TIP
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 5
FRAME (Continued)