1998 DODGE RAM 1500 air

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the air cleaner(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove rocker arm assembly and push rod-
s(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify
push rods to ensure installation in original location.
(6) Remove the cylinder head(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove bolt from tappet guide holder.
(8) Remove tappet guide holder.
(9) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed and reused, identify
tappets to ensure installation in original location.
(10) Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
(2) Install tappets in their original positions.
(3)
Install tappet guide holder. Install the tappet
guide holder bolt and tighten to 12 N´m (106 in. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install cylinder head(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install pushrods and rocker arm assembly(Re-
fer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7)
Install intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the air cleaner(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
(10) Road test vehicle and check for leaks.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy. Piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant
(Molykote) to reduce friction and provide scuff resis-
tance. The piston top ring groove and land is anod-
ized. The connecting rods are made of forged
powdered metal, with a ªfractured capº design. A
pressed fit piston pin is used to attach the piston and
connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON FITTING
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (
.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to
the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point
B (Fig. 11).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled. The
piston-rod assembly is specific for the left cylinder
bank ( odd numbered) and the right cylinder bank (
even numbered) and must not be interchanged.
(4) The coating material is applied to the piston
after the final piston machining process. Measuring
the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro-
vide accurate results (Fig. 10). Therefore measuring
the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial
Bore Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of
reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
Fig. 10 MOLY COATED PISTON
1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 211
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS (Continued)

(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the engine oil filter, if removed.
(10) Install the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the skid plate.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
(13) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system (Fig. 27) is a full flow fil-
tration pressure feed type.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Fig. 26 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
9 - 220 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or
plug the PCV valve grommet.
(2) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(3) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.(4) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(5) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve.
(6) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
Fig. 27 Engine Oil Lubrication System
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 221
LUBRICATION (Continued)

NOTE: The 5.7 Oil pump is released as an assem-
bly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for
Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil
pump is not functioning or out of specification it
must be replaced as an assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and
install the 4 oil pump retaining bolts.(2) Tighten the oil pump retaining bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the pick-up tube and oil pan(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite mate-
rial and features long runners which maximizes low
end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane
sealing which consist of eight individual press in
place port gaskets to prevent leaks.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
Fig. 30 Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - OUTER ROTOR
Fig. 31 Measuring Clearance Between Rotors -
Typical
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - INNER ROTOR
Fig. 32 Measuring Clearance Over Rotors - Typical
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 225
OIL PUMP (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
(4) Disconnect brake booster hose and positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(5) Remove generator and set aside.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove lines or
remove freon from A/C compressor.
(6) Remove air conditioning compressor and set
aside..
(7) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(8) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
a crisscross pattern starting from the outside bolts
and ending at the middle bolts.
(9) Remove intake manifold and IAFM as an
assembly.
CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for
the intake manifold. If severe damage is found dur-
ing inspection, the intake manifold must be
replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold seals.
(2) Position intake manifold and IAFM.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts, and
tighten in sequence from the middle bolts towards
the outside in a crisscross pattern. Torque fasteners
to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Install generator.
(6) Install A/C compressor.
(7) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive crank-
case ventilation (PCV) hose.
(8) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
REMOVAL
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Install engine support fixture special tool
#8534.
(6) Raise engine enough to remove manifolds.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
raising the engine.
(7) Remove heat shield.
(8) Remove manifold bolts.
(9) Remove manifold and gasket.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
9 - 226 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Install manifold gasket and manifold.
(2) Install manifold bolts and tighten to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install heat shield and tighten nuts to 15 N´m
(11 ft. lbs.).
(4) Lower engine.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
lowering the engine.
(5) Remove engine support fixture from engine.
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Tighten right and left side engine mount
through bolts.
(8) Install exhaust flange to pipe bolts.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
TIMING/CHAIN COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(7) Remove fan shroud.
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect A/C lines or
discharge freon.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
(9) Remove the generator.
(10) Remove upper radiator hose.
(11) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(12) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
(13) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner and
both idler pulleys.
(14) Remove crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).NOTE: Do not remove the hoses from the power
steering pump.
(15) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
(16) Remove the dipstick support bolt.
(17) Drain the engine oil.
(18) Remove the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove water pump for
timing cover removal.
(19) Remove timing cover bolts and remove cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface.
NOTE: Always install a new gasket on timing cover.
(2) Install cover and new gasket. Tighten fasteners
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The large lifting stud is torqued to 55 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install the A/C compressor.
(5) Install the generator.
(6) Install power steering pump.
(7) Install the dipstick support bolt.
(8) Install the thermostat housing.
(9) Install crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
and both idler pulleys.
(11) Install radiator lower hose.
(12) Install both heater hoses.
(13) Install radiator fan shroud.
(14) Install the fan and fan drive assembly
(15) Install the accessory drive belt.
(16) Install the coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(17) Install the upper radiator hose.
(18) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(19) Fill cooling system.
(20) Refill engine oil.
(21) Connect the battery negative cable.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 227
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION........................232
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL............233
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐSMOKE
DIAGNOSIS CHARTS.................236
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION/LEAKAGE TESTS.......239
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-
PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS........239
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS........240
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK..............................240
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ENGINE..................241
REMOVALÐCRANKCASE BREATHER....242
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ENGINE..............242
INSTALLATIONÐCRANKCASE BREATHER . 243
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - 5.9L DIESEL.........244
TORQUE...........................245
SPECIAL TOOLS
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE.................246
ENGINE DATA PLATE
DESCRIPTION........................248
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL............................248
INSTALLATION........................249
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION........................249
REMOVAL............................249
CLEANING
CLEANINGÐCYLINDER HEAD..........251
CLEANINGÐCROSSHEADS............251
CLEANINGÐPUSHRODS..............252
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - CYLINDER HEAD.........252
INSPECTIONÐCROSSHEADS..........252
INSPECTIONÐPUSHRODS.............253
INSTALLATION........................253
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐCYLINDER HEAD COVER....255
REMOVALÐROCKER HOUSING.........255
CLEANING...........................255INSPECTION.........................255
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐCYLINDER HEAD COVER . 255
INSTALLATION - ROCKER HOUSING.....255
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS
DESCRIPTION........................256
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVES,
GUIDES AND SPRINGS................256
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION.......259
REMOVAL - VALVE SPRINGS AND SEALS . . . 260
INSTALLATION........................261
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY
DESCRIPTION........................261
REMOVAL............................261
CLEANING...........................262
INSPECTION.........................262
INSTALLATION........................263
ENGINE BLOCK
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER
BLOCK REFACING...................264
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER
BORE - DE-GLAZE...................264
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER
BORE REPAIR.......................265
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCAM BORE
REPAIR ............................267
INSPECTION.........................267
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK)
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐCAMSHAFT BEARINGS......268
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT...............268
INSPECTION.........................270
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS . . 271
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT............271
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING
ROD BEARING AND CRANKSHAFT
JOURNAL CLEARANCE................272
CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR
DESCRIPTION........................273
REMOVAL - GEAR.....................273
INSTALLATION - GEAR..................273
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MAIN BEARING
CLEARANCE........................274
9 - 230 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR