1998 DODGE RAM 1500 rear light

CLEANING
Clean the differential case and gears with light oil
or a lint free cloth.
NOTE: Never use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Minor corrosion, nicks or scratches can be
smoothed with 400 grit emery cloth and polished
out with crocus cloth.
(1) Inspect pinion gears teeth for chips and cracks
(Fig. 42).
(2) Inspect pinion gears shafts and brake shoes for
scratches, flat-spots or worn (Fig. 42).
(3) Inspect side gears teeth for chips and cracks
(Fig. 43).
(4) Inspect pinion and side gear bores for scratches
(Fig. 44).
NOTE: If any damage is found the differential must
be replaced as an assembly. Individual components
can not be replaced separately.
Fig. 42 PINION GEAR AND BRAKE SHOE
1 - BRAKE SHOES
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 43 SIDE GEARS
1 - THRUST WASHERS
2 - SPACER
3 - SIDE GEARS
Fig. 44 PINION/SIDE GEAR BORE
1 - PINION BORES
2 - SIDE GEAR BORE
3 - 160 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE (Continued)

(4) Install rear pinion bearing (Fig. 58) with
Installer D-389 and a press.
(5) Installnewcollapsible spacer (Fig. 59).
(6) Lubricate pinion and bearings.
(7) Install pinion into the housing and place front
pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft. Draw the pinionshaft into the front bearing with Installer 8981 (Fig.
60).
(8) Installnewpinion seal (Fig. 61) with Installer
8896 and Handle C-4171.
(9) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pin-
ion flange splines.
(10) Hold pinion and lightly tap the pinion flange
onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
(11) Install pinion flange washer andnewpinion
nut.
(12) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 62) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up.
(13) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(14) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 63). Tighten pinion nut in
small increments until pinion rotating torque is:
²New Pinion Bearings:1.7-2.8 N´m (15-25 in.
lbs.)
²Original Pinion Bearings:1.1-2.2 N´m (10-20
in. lbs.)
Fig. 58 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 59 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 60 PINION GEAR INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 61 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 165
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within the pis-
ton bore forces the caliper to slide inward on the
mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake pad lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake pads do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
25). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amountis just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake pad.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Compress the disc brake caliper.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
(6) Remove the caliper slide bolts.
(7) Remove the disc brake caliper (Fig. 26) or (Fig.
27).
REMOVAL - REAR
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt and discard
the copper washers if replacing caliper (Fig. 28).
Fig. 24 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 25 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 34). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals and pis-
ton bores with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install new piston seals into caliper bores (Fig.
35).
NOTE: Verify seal is fully seated and not twisted.
(3) Lightly lubricate lip of new boot with silicone
grease. Install boot on piston and work boot lip into
the groove at the top of piston.
(4) Stretch boot rearward to straighten boot folds,
then move boot forward until folds snap into place.
(5) Install piston into caliper bore and press piston
down to the bottom of the caliper bore by hand or
with hammer handle (Fig. 36).
(6) Seat dust boot in caliper (Fig. 37) with Handle
C-4171 and Installer:
²HD 56 mm caliper: Installer C-4340
²LD 54 mm caliper: Installer C-3716-A(7) Install the second piston and dust boot.
(8) Lubricate caliper mounting bolt bushings, boot
seals and bores with Mopar brake grease or Dow
Corningt807 grease only.
CAUTION: Use of alternative grease may cause
damage to the boots seals.
(9) Install the boot seals into the caliper seal bores
and center the seals in the bores.
(10) Install mounting bolt bushings into the boot
seals and insure seal lip is engaged into the bushing
grooves at either end of the bushing.
(11) Install caliper bleed screw.
Fig. 34 Polishing Piston Bore
1 - HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
Fig. 35 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 36 Caliper Piston Installation
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
3 - PISTON
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 44).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 45).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
Fig. 44 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 45 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install support plate on axle flange (Fig. 66).
Tighten attaching bolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(3) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 66).
(4) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(5) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(6) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(7) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brakes are operated by a system of
cables and levers attached to a primary and second-
ary shoe positioned within the drum section of the
rotor.
The drum-in-hat design utilizes an independent set
of shoes to park the vehicle (Fig. 67).
OPERATION
To apply the parking brake the pedal is depressed.
This creates tension in the cable which pulls forward
on the park brake lever. The lever pushes the park
brake shoes outward and into contact with the drum
section of the rotor. The contact of shoe to rotor parks
the vehicle.
A torsion locking mechanism is used to hold the
pedal in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand release.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brake is applied.
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a cable
tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner, once
adjusted at the factory, should not need further
adjustment under normal circumstances. Adjustment
may be required if a new tensioner, or cables are
installed, or disconnected.
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 69).
(3) Loosen adjusting nut to create slack in front
cable.
(4) Remove the front cable from the cable connec-
tor.
Fig. 66 SUPPORT PLATE WITH BRAKES MOUNTED
1 - SUPPORT PLATE
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 67 SUPPORT PLATE WITH BRAKES MOUNTED
1 - SUPPORT PLATE
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
5 - 36 BRAKES - BASEDR
SUPPORT PLATE (Continued)