1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Gauge

(2) Install the bolts/nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (21
ft. lbs.) (Fig. 84).
(3) Install the park brake release rod.
(4) Connect the front cable to the arm on the pedal
assembly.
(5) Install the front cable grommet into the floor-
pan and the cable retainer, roll the carpet back.
(6) Connect the wires to the brake lamp switch.
(7) Install the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) Adjust the parking brake cable tensioner (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/CABLE TEN-
SIONER - ADJUSTMENTS).
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or
disconnected for service. When adjustment is nec-
essary, perform adjustment only as described in the
following procedure. This is necessary to avoid
faulty park brake operation.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Back off the cable tensioner adjusting nut to
create slack in the cables.
(3) Remove the rear wheel/tire assemblies. Then
remove the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Verify the brakes are in good condition and
operating properly.
(5) Verify the park brake cables operate freely and
are not binding, or seized.
(6) Check the rear brake shoe adjustment with
standard brake gauge (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARK-
ING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and verify that the rotors rotate freely
without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 85).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
Fig. 83 PARKING BRAKE PEDAL
1 - RELEASE ROD
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fig. 84 PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY
1 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
2 - MOUNTING NUT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 43
PEDAL (Continued)

PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leakthat does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINECOOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIESEL ENGINE
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS - DIESEL ENGINE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Vehicle is equipped with a heavy
duty cooling system.1. None. System operating normally.
NOTE: Information on dash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
datd from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensore circuit concern.2. Thermostat stuck open 2. Inspect and test thermostat.
3. Coolant level low. 3. Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.4. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
5. Engine sensor stuck in range 5. Monitor sensor with DRB III to
verify sensor reading changes with
increasing temperature.
6. Engine sensor failed out of
range.A DTC will be set.
7. Electronically Controlled Vicsous
Fan Drive not operating properly.7. Check Electronically Controlled
Viscous Fan Drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
DRCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH. COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LEAKING FROM SYSTEM1. Vehicle overloaded, high ambient
(outside) temperatures with A/C
turned on, stop and go driving or
prolonged operation at idle speeds.1. Temporary condition, repair not
required. Notify customer of vehicle
operation instructions located in
Owners Manual.
NOTE: Information on dash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
information from ECM. DTC will be
set for engine sensor circuit
concern.2. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.2. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Air trapped in cooling system 3. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) and refill (Refer to 7
- COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Radiator cap faulty. 4. Replace radiator cap.
5. Plugged A/C or radiator cooling
fins.5. Clean all debris away from A/C
and radiator cooling fins.
6. Coolant mixture incorrect. 6. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) refill with correct
mixture (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7. Thermostat stuck shut. 7. Inspect and test thermostat.
Replace thermostat if necessary.
8. Bug screen or winter front being
used.8. Remove bug screen or winter
front.
9. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive not operating properly.9. Check viscous fan (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
10. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 10. Check for leaking head gaskets
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
11. Heater core leaking. 11. Replace heater core.
12. Cooling system hoses leaking. 12. Tighten clamps or Replace
hoses.
13. Brakes dragging. 13. Check brakes. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
14. Accessory drive belt. 14. Inspect. Replace as necessary.
15. Water Pump. 15. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
16. Engine sensor stuck in range. 16. Monitor sensor with DRBIII to
verify sensor reading changes
increase in temperature.
17. Temperature sensor failed out
of range.17. A DTC will be set.
7 - 8 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
INCONSISTENT (ERRATIC,
CYCLES OR FLUCTUATES)1. Heavy duty cooling system,
extreme cold ambient (outside)
temperature or heater blower motor
in high position.1. None. System operating normally.
NOTE: Information on daash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
data from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensore circuit wiring.2. Temperature gauge or sensor
defective.2. Check cluster or engine coolant
temp sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Temporary heavy usage or load. 3. None. Normal condition.
4. Air trapped in cooling system. 4. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Water pump 5. Replace water pump.
6. Air leak on suction side of water
pump.6. Check for leak. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
RADIATOR CAP LEAKING STEAM
AND /OR COOLANT INTO
RESERVOIR BOTTLE.
(TEMPERATURE GAUGE MAY
READ HIGH)1. Radiator cap defective. 1. Replace radiator cap.
2. Radiator neck surface damaged. 2. Replace radiator.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reservoir/overflow system.1. Replace radiator cap, check vent
hose between radiator and reservoir
bottle for blockage also check
reservoir bottle vent for blockage.
NOISY FAN 1. Fan blade(s) loose, damaged. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive.2. None. Normal condition.
3. Fan blades striking surrounding
objects.3. Locate contact point and repair
as necessary.
4. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive bearing concern.4. Check viscous fan drive (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
5. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck on.5. Check viscous fan drive(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Obstructed air flow through
radiator.6. Remove obstruction.
DRCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser
air flow obstructed.1. Remove obstruction and/or clean.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive not working.2. Check viscous fan drive (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
3. Air seals around radiator
damaged or missing.3. Inspect air seals, repair or
replace as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE. GAUGE MAY OR
MAY NOT READ LOW.1. Heavy duty cooling system, and
cooler ambient temperatures.1. None. Normal condition.
2. Obstruction in heater hoses. 2. Remove hoses, remove
obstruction.
3. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck on.Check viscous fan drive. (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Water pump damaged. 4. Replace water pump.
HEAT ODOR 1. Damaged or missing drive line
heat shields.1. Repair or replace damaged or
missing heat shields.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive damaged.2. Check viscous fan drive. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN
DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED OR STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.
TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect the cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
²Service to electrically controlled viscous fan
clutch
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART BELOW.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART
7 - 10 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for
On-Board Diagnostics and DTC
information. Replace thermostat if
necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor
connector. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL) Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER/ENGINE
TEMPERATURE GAUGE -
DESCRIPTION). Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank or degas
bottle and the radiator. Inspect
system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary. Refer to the Coolant
section of the manual text for
WARNINGS and CAUTIONS
associated with removing the
radiator cap.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
procedures.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR THE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST OR LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine is being idled with very high
ambient (outside) temperatures and
the air conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating
and repair. Refer to Possible
Causes (2-18).
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
DRCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (fluctuates, cycles or is
erratic)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and
repair if necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge should return
to normal range after vehicle is
driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range after a few
minutes of engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open
late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head
gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam emitting
from the exhaust system. Repair as
necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP -
REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to build
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as
necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seals. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as
necessary.
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)