1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Front lamp

The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 44).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 45).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
Fig. 44 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 45 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(12) Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake
shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park
brake shoes are dragging, remove rotor and back off
star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake
shoe drag against drum. Continue with the previous
step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake
drum.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install wheel and tire.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
specified torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to the full specified torque of 180 N´m (135 ft. lbs.)
1500 & 2500 Series or 195 N´m (145 ft. lbs.) 3500
Series.
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Apply and release the park brake pedal one
time. This will seat and correctly adjust the park
brake cables.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake
pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm
enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lin-
ing replacement, it is recommended that the park-
ing brake system be conditioned prior to use. This
is done by making one stop from 25 mph on dry
pavement or concrete using light to moderate force
on the parking brake foot pedal.
(18) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper func-
tion of the vehicle's brake system.
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 82).
(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.(8) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(9) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(10) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(11) Depress park brake pedal and make sure park
brakes hold the vehicle staionary.
(12) Release park brake pedal.
PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Release the parking brake.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Loosen the cable tensioner nut at the equalizer
to create slack in the front cable.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(6) Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the
switch on the pedal assembly.
(7) Roll the carpet back, loosen the front cable
grommet from the floorpan and the cable retainer.
(8) Disengage the release rod (Fig. 83) from the
arm on the pedal assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts/nuts from the pedal assembly
and remove the assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the replacement pedal assembly on the
dash and cowl.
Fig. 82 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASEDR
SHOES (Continued)

(2) Install the bolts/nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (21
ft. lbs.) (Fig. 84).
(3) Install the park brake release rod.
(4) Connect the front cable to the arm on the pedal
assembly.
(5) Install the front cable grommet into the floor-
pan and the cable retainer, roll the carpet back.
(6) Connect the wires to the brake lamp switch.
(7) Install the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) Adjust the parking brake cable tensioner (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/CABLE TEN-
SIONER - ADJUSTMENTS).
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or
disconnected for service. When adjustment is nec-
essary, perform adjustment only as described in the
following procedure. This is necessary to avoid
faulty park brake operation.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Back off the cable tensioner adjusting nut to
create slack in the cables.
(3) Remove the rear wheel/tire assemblies. Then
remove the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Verify the brakes are in good condition and
operating properly.
(5) Verify the park brake cables operate freely and
are not binding, or seized.
(6) Check the rear brake shoe adjustment with
standard brake gauge (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARK-
ING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and verify that the rotors rotate freely
without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 85).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
Fig. 83 PARKING BRAKE PEDAL
1 - RELEASE ROD
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fig. 84 PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY
1 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
2 - MOUNTING NUT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 43
PEDAL (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the front rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
from the hub. (Fig. 3)
(3) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the hub.
(4) Remove the wiring from the clips and discon-
nect the electrical connector.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wiring to the clips and Reconnect
the electrical connector.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor to the hub.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the bolt to 21 N´m (190 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the front rotor and brake caliper assem-
bly (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/ROTORS - INSTALLATION).
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
ANTILOCK
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The RWAL brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the RWAL system. For test procedures
refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Remove the brake line mounting nut and
remove the brake line from the sensor stud.
(3) Remove the mounting stud from the sensor and
shield (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the sensor and shield from the differ-
ential housing.
(5) Disconnect the sensor wire harness and remove
the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the harness to the sensor.Be sure
the seal is securely in place between the sensor
and the wiring connector.
(2) Install the O-ring on the sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert the sensor in the differential housing.
(4) Install the sensor shield.
(5) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
24 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the brake line on the sensor stud and
install the nut.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 3 WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - HUB/BEARINGFig. 4 REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - AXLE HOUSING
5 - 48 BRAKES - ABSDR
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

TONE WHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The Antilock brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.
NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the Antilock Brake system. For test proce-
dures refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
DESCRIPTION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING
Vehicles equipped with ABS use electronic variable
brake proportioning (EVBP) to balance front-to-rear
braking. The EVBP is used in place of a rear propor-
tioning valve. The EVBP system uses the ABS sys-
tem to control the slip of the rear wheels in partial
braking range. The braking force of the rear wheels
is controlled electronically by using the inlet and out-
let valves located in the integrated control unit
(ICU).
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE BRAKE
PROPORTIONING
EVBP is able to decrease, hold and increase rear
brake pressure without activating full ABS control.
Upon entry into EVBP the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve for
the rear brake circuit is pulsed. This allows fluid to
enter the low pressure accumulator (LPA) in the
hydraulic control unit (HCU) resulting in a drop in
fluid pressure to the rear brakes. In order to increase
the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve is switched
off and the inlet valve is pulsed. This increases the
pressure to the rear brakes.
The EVBP will remain functional during many
ABS fault modes. If both the red BRAKE and amber
ABS warning indicators are illuminated, the EVBP
may not be functioning.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor, low
pressure accumulators, inlet valves, outlet valves and
noise attenuators.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid
released to the system for ABS mode operation. The
pump provides the fluid volume needed and is oper-
ated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by
the CAB.
The valves modulate brake pressure during
antilock braking and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
NOTE: The three modes mentioned below do occur
but not necessarily in the order listed everytime.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase,
pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is
closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle but only the inlet valve is energized. Fluid
apply pressure in the control channel is maintained
at a constant rate. The CAB maintains the hold cycle
until sensor inputs indicate a pressure change is nec-
essary.
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 49

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH. COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LEAKING FROM SYSTEM1. Vehicle overloaded, high ambient
(outside) temperatures with A/C
turned on, stop and go driving or
prolonged operation at idle speeds.1. Temporary condition, repair not
required. Notify customer of vehicle
operation instructions located in
Owners Manual.
NOTE: Information on dash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
information from ECM. DTC will be
set for engine sensor circuit
concern.2. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.2. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Air trapped in cooling system 3. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) and refill (Refer to 7
- COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Radiator cap faulty. 4. Replace radiator cap.
5. Plugged A/C or radiator cooling
fins.5. Clean all debris away from A/C
and radiator cooling fins.
6. Coolant mixture incorrect. 6. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) refill with correct
mixture (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7. Thermostat stuck shut. 7. Inspect and test thermostat.
Replace thermostat if necessary.
8. Bug screen or winter front being
used.8. Remove bug screen or winter
front.
9. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive not operating properly.9. Check viscous fan (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
10. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 10. Check for leaking head gaskets
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
11. Heater core leaking. 11. Replace heater core.
12. Cooling system hoses leaking. 12. Tighten clamps or Replace
hoses.
13. Brakes dragging. 13. Check brakes. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
14. Accessory drive belt. 14. Inspect. Replace as necessary.
15. Water Pump. 15. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
16. Engine sensor stuck in range. 16. Monitor sensor with DRBIII to
verify sensor reading changes
increase in temperature.
17. Temperature sensor failed out
of range.17. A DTC will be set.
7 - 8 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of the constant tension clamps (Fig. 19). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with a matching number, letter
and width.
(7) Remove the radiator upper hose clamp and
upper hose at the thermostat housing.
(8) Position the wiring harness (behind thermostat
housing) to gain access to the thermostat housing.(9) Remove the thermostat housing mounting
bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
(Fig. 20). Discard old gasket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the mating areas of the intake manifold
and thermostat housing.
(2) Install the thermostat (spring side down) into
the recessed machined groove on the intake manifold
(Fig. 20).
(3) Install the gasket on the intake manifold and
over the thermostat (Fig. 20).
(4) Position the thermostat housing to the intake
manifold.Note:The word FRONT stamped on hous-
ing (Fig. 21). For adequate clearance, thismustbe
placed towards the front of the vehicle. The housing
is slightly angled forward after the installation to the
intake manifold.
(5) Install the housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the radiator upper hose to the thermo-
stat housing.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 22) for the
correct 5.9L engine belt routing. The correct belt
with correct length must be used.
Fig. 18 Automatic Belt Tensioner ± 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - TENSIONER
3 - FAN BLADE
Fig. 19 SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
Fig. 20 Thermostat ± 5.9L Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
DRENGINE 7 - 43
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - THERMOSTAT
The cooling system used with the diesel engine
provides the extra coolant capacity and extra cooling
protection needed for higher GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight
Rating) vehicles.
This system capacity will not effect warm up or
cold weather operating characteristics if the thermo-
stat is operating properly. This is because coolant
will be held in the engine until it reaches the ther-
mostat ªsetº temperature.
Diesel engines, due to their inherent efficiency are
slower to warm up than gasoline powered engines,
and will operate at lower temperatures when the
vehicle is unloaded. Because of this, lower tempera-
ture gauge readings for diesel versus gasoline
engines may, at times be normal.
Typically, complaints of low engine coolant temper-
ature are observed as low heater output when com-
bined with cool or cold outside temperatures.
To help promote faster engine warm-up, the elec-
tric engine block heater must be used with cool or
cold outside temperatures. This will help keep the
engine coolant warm when the vehicle is parked.
A ªCold Weather Coverº is available from the parts
department through the Mopar Accessories product
line. This accessory cover is designed to block airflow
entering the radiator and engine compartment to
promote faster engine warm-up. It attaches to the
front of the vehicle at the grill opening.The cover is
to be used with cool or cold temperatures only.
If used with high outside temperatures, serious
engine damage could result.Refer to the litera-
ture supplied with the cover for additional informa-
tion.
(1) To determine if the thermostat is defective, it
must be removed from the vehicle (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT THERMO-
STAT - REMOVAL).
(2) After the thermostat has been removed, exam-
ine the thermostat and inside of thermostat housing
for contaminants. If contaminants are found, the
thermostat may already be in a ªstuck openº position.
Flush the cooling system before replacing thermostat
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Place the thermostat into a container filled
with water.
(4) Place the container on a hot plate or other suit-
able heating device.
(5) Place a commercially available radiator ther-
mometer into the water.
(6) Apply heat to the water while observing the
thermostat and thermometer.
(7) The thermostat will begin to open at 85.5 -
89.4ÉC. (186 - 193ÉF ). If the valve starts to movebefore this temperature is reached, it is opening too
early. Replace thermostat. The thermostat should be
fully open (valve will stop moving) at 97ÉC (207ÉF). If
the valve is still moving when the water temperature
reaches 97ÉC (207ÉF), it is opening too late. Replace
thermostat. If the valve refuses to move at any time,
replace thermostat.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain cooling system until coolant level is
below thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094).
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove radiator hose clamp and hose from
thermostat housing.
(4) Remove the three (3) water outlet-to-cylinder
head bolts and remove the water outlet connector
(Fig. 26).
(5) Clean the mating surfaces of the water outlet
connector and clean the thermostat seat groove at
the top of the thermostat housing (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect thermostat seal for cuts or nicks.
Replace if damaged.
(2) Install the thermostat into the groove in the
top of the cylinder head (Fig. 26).
(3) Install the thermostat housing and bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the radiator upper hose and clamp.
(5) Fill the cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7
- COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Connect the battery negative cables.
DRENGINE 7 - 47
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)