1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Oil pan

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The ABS brake system uses 3 wheel speed sensors.
A sensor is mounted to each front hub/bearings. The
third sensor is mounted on top of the rear axle dif-
ferential housing.
OPERATION
The Wheel Speed Sensor consists of a magnet sur-
rounded by windings from a single strand of wire.
The sensor sends a small AC signal to the CAB. This
signal is generated by magnetic induction. The mag-
netic induction is created when a toothed sensor ring
(exciter ring or tone wheel) passes the stationary
magnetic WSS.
When the ring gear is rotated, the exciter ring
passes the tip of the WSS. As the exciter ring tooth
approaches the tip of the WSS, the magnetic lines of
force expand, causing the magnetic field to cut across
the sensor's windings. This, in turn causes current to
flow through the WSS circuit (Fig. 1) in one direc-
tion. When the exciter ring tooth moves away from
the sensor tip, the magnetic lines of force collapse
cutting the winding in the opposite direction. This
causes the current to flow in the opposite direction.
Every time a tooth of the exciter ring passes the tip
of the WSS, an AC signal is generated. Each AC sig-
nal (positive to negative signal or sinewave) is inter-
preted by the CAB. It then compares the frequency of
the sinewave to a time value to calculate vehicle
speed. The CAB continues to monitor the frequency
to determine a deceleration rate that would indicate
a possible wheel-locking tendency.
The signal strength of any magnetic induction sen-
sor is directly affected by:
²Magnetic field strength; the stronger the mag-
netic field, the stronger the signal
²Number of windings in the sensor; more wind-
ings provide a stronger signal
²Exciter ring speed; the faster the exciter ring/
tone wheel rotates, the stronger the signal will be
²Distance between the exciter ring teeth and
WSS; the closer the WSS is to the exciter ring/tone
wheel, the stronger the signal will be
The rear WSS is not adjustable. A clearance speci-
fication has been established for manufacturing toler-
ances. If the clearance is not within these
specifications, then either the WSS or other compo-
nents may be damaged. The clearance between the
WSS and the exciter ring is 0.005 ± 0.050 in.
The assembly plant performs a ªRolls Testº on
every vehicle that leaves the assembly plant. One of
the test performed is a test of the WSS. To properlytest the sensor, the assembly plant connects test
equipment to the Data Link Connector (DLC). This
connector is located to the right of the steering col-
umn and attached to the lower portion of the instru-
ment panel (Fig. 2). The rolls test terminal is spliced
to the WSS circuit. The vehicle is then driven on a
set of rollers and the WSS output is monitored for
proper operation.
Fig. 1 Operation of the Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - MAGNETIC CORE
2 - CAB
3 - AIR GAP
4 - EXCITER RING
5 - COIL
Fig. 2 Data Link Connector - Typical
1 - 16±WAY DATA LINK CONNECTOR
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 47

PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leakthat does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Nuts - Transmission Oil
Cooler Tube31.5 24 -
Bolts - Coolant Bottle 8.5 - 75
Tube Nuts - Transmission
Oil Cooler to Transmission
5.9L/46RE 31.5 24 -
3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/45RFE 20 18 -
Bolts - Water Pump -
Diesel24 18 -
Bolts - Water Pump - 4.7L 58 43 -
Block Heater - Diesel 55 41 -
Transmission Oil Cooler -
Diesel
M8 24 18 -
M12 77 57 -
SPECIFICATIONS -
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
3.7/4.7L/5.7L
Engine15.4L 16.2 qts.- to the
middle of the
cold fill range
5.9L Diesel
Engine28L 29.5 qts.
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING
Pliers Constant Pressure Hose Clamp - 6094
3/8º Quick Connect Release Tool - 6935
SPANNER WRENCHÐ6958
Cooling System Pressure Tester - 7700A
Adapter Pins 8346
7 - 20 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol or propylene-glycol cool-
ant prevents water present in the cooling system
from freezing within temperatures indicated by mix-
ture ratio of coolant to water.
COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER- GAS ENGINES
DESCRIPTION
The coolant reserve/overflow tank is mounted on
top of the fan shroud, and is made of high tempera-
ture plastic (Fig. 1).
OPERATION
The coolant reserve/overflow system works in con-
junction with the radiator pressure cap. It utilizes
thermal expansion and contraction of coolant to keep
coolant free of trapped air. It provides a volume for
expansion and contraction of coolant. It also provides
a convenient and safe method for checking coolant
level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure.
This is done without removing the radiator pressure
cap. The system also provides some reserve coolantto the radiator to cover minor leaks and evaporation
or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove recovery hose from radiator.
(2) Remove the coolant container to fan shroud
mounting bolt.
(3) Tilt the container backward towards the engine
to disengage the mounting pin locking features and
lift the container away from the fan shroud (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the coolant container mounting pins into
the slots on the fan shroud and push the container
onto the fan shroud.
(2) Secure the container to the fan shroud with the
bolt. Tighten to 8.5N´m (75 in-lbs).
NOTE: Ensure that the locking feature on the
mounting pins has engaged.
(3) Connect the recovery hose to the radiator (Fig.
1).
RADIATOR FAN - GAS
ENGINES
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Remove coolant reserve/overflow container from
fan shroud and lay aside.Do Notdisconnect the
hoses or drain coolant from the container.
(3) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub
shaft (Fig. 3). Remove the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly from the water pump by turning the
mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the
front. Threads on the viscous fan drive areRIGHT-
HAND.A 36 MM Fan Wrench should be used to pre-
vent pulley from rotating (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Coolant Recovery Bottle - Gas Engine
1 - SCREW
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 - RADIATOR/RADIATOR CAP
4 - FAN SHROUD
DRENGINE 7 - 33
COOLANT (Continued)

RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER6094). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission cooler. The transmission cooler will
remain on the radiator and can be removed as an
assembly.
(8) Disconnect the electronic viscous fan drive elec-
trical connector.
(9) Using a fastener removal tool, remove the two
push pins and the lower shroud assembly and elec-
tronic viscous fan drive wiring from the upper shroud
assembly. Position wiring out of the way. Do not
impact or damage the electronic viscous fan drive or
pull it's wiring.
(10) Using a fastener tool, remove the wiring har-
ness bracket from the upper fan shroud.
(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 38).
(12) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser or the electronic viscous fan
connector when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
7 - 56 ENGINEDR

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Place a drain pan under the oil cooler lines.
(3) Disconnect the transmission oil cooler line
quick-connect fitting at the cooler outlet using the
quick connect release tool 6935. Plug the cooler lines
to prevent oil leakage.
(4) Unsnap the transmission cooler tubes from the
radiator tank clips.
(5) Remove the bolt attaching the transmission
cooler to the radiator.
(6) Remove oil cooler from the vehicle. Take care
not to damage the radiator core or transmission
cooler tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the transmission cooler tubes to the
front of the radiator by sliding brackets into slots on
radiator inlet tank.
(2) Snap the transmission cooler tubes into the
clips on the side of the radiator tank.
(3) Install the transmission cooler attaching bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 16 N´m (140 in. lbs.).
(4) Inspect the quick connect fittings for debris
and install the quick connect fitting on the cooler
tube until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull apart the
connection to verify proper installation and install
the secondary latches.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
(6) Start the engine and check all fittings for
leaks.
(7) Check the fluid level in the automatic trans-
mission. Refer to the appropriate transmission sec-
tion(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
AUTOMATIC - 45RFE/545RFE/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) or(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 46RE/FLUID - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
TRANS COOLER - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
All diesel models equipped with an automatic
transmission are equipped with both a main water-
to-oil cooler and a separate air-to-oil cooler. Both cool-
ers are supplied as standard equipment on diesel
engine powered models when equipped with an auto-
matic transmission.
The main water-to-oil transmission oil cooler is
mounted to a bracket on the intake side of the engine
(Fig. 3).
The air-to-oil cooler is located in front of the radi-
ator (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 Transmission Water-To-Oil Cooler - Diesel
Engine - Typical
1 - TRANSMISSION WATER-TO-OIL COOLER
Fig. 4 Auxiliary Transmission Oil CoolerÐDiesel
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - THERMOSTATIC BYPASS VALVE
3 - RADIATOR
4 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
5 - TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
7 - 68 TRANSMISSIONDR
TRANS COOLER (Continued)

OPERATION
The transmission oil is routed through the main
cooler first, then the auxiliary cooler where addi-
tional heat is removed from the transmission oil
before returning to the transmission. The auxiliary
cooler has an internal thermostat that controls fluid
flow through the cooler. When the transmission fluid
is cold (less then operating temperature), the fluid is
routed through the cooler bypass. When the trans-
mission fluid reaches operating temperatures and
above, the thermostat closes off the bypass allowing
fluid flow through the cooler. The thermostat is ser-
vicable.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - AIR TO OIL COOLER
(1) Remove Charge Air Cooler (Refer to 11 -
EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/
CHARGE AIR COOLER AND PLUMBING -
REMOVAL).
(2) Place a drain pan under the oil cooler.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Disconnect the oil cooler quick-connect fittings
from the transmission lines.
(5) Remove the charge air cooler-to-oil cooler bolt
(Fig. 5).
(6) Remove two mounting nuts.
(7) Remove the oil cooler and line assembly
towards the front of vehicle. Cooler must be rotated
and tilted into position while removing.
REMOVAL - WATER TO OIL COOLER
CAUTION: If a leak should occur in the water-to-oil
cooler mounted to the side of the engine block,
engine coolant may become mixed with transmis-
sion fluid. Transmission fluid may also enter engine
cooling system. Both cooling system and transmis-
sion should be drained and inspected in case of oil
cooler leakage.
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Disconnect coolant lines from cooler.
(5) Disconnect transmission oil lines from cooler.
Plug cooler lines to prevent oil leakage.
(6) Remove cooler bracket to transmission adapter
bolt.
(7) Remove two cooler bracket to block bolts.
(8) Remove cooler assembly from vehicle. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5 Auxiliary Transmission Oil CoolerÐDiesel
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - THERMOSTATIC BYPASS VALVE
3 - RADIATOR
4 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
5 - TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
Fig. 6 Transmission Water-To- Oil Cooler - Diesel
1 - TRANSMISSION WATER-TO-OIL COOLER
DRTRANSMISSION 7 - 69
TRANS COOLER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)