1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Engine Installation

(9)On vehicles equipped with adjustable
brake pedal.Reconnect the electrical connector to
the motor and the adjuster cable at the pedal.
(10) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 53).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 53).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 53).
(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 53).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 52 PEDAL ASSEMBLY (ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
SHOWN)
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE & ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 53 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
Flywheel below minimum thickness
specification.1. Improper flywheel machining.
Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.1. Replace flywheel.
Clutch disc, cover and/or diaphragm
spring warped or distorted.1. Rough handling. Impact bent
cover, spring, or disc.1. Replace disc or cover as
necessary.
2. Improper bolt tightening
procedure.2. Tighten clutch cover using proper
procedure.
Facing on flywheel side of disc torn,
gouged, or worn.1. Flywheel surface scored or
nicked.1. Correct surface condition if
possible. Replace flywheel and disc
as necessary.
2. Clutch disc sticking or binding on
transmission input shaft.2. Inspect components and
correct/replace as necessary.
Clutch disc facing burnt. Flywheel
and cover pressure plate surfaces
heavily glazed.1. Frequent operation under high
loads or hard acceleration
conditions.1. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips)
clutch. Results in rapid wear and
overheating of disc and cover.2. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
Clutch disc binds on input shaft
splines.1. Clutch disc hub splines damaged
during installation.1. Clean, smooth, and lubricate hub
splines if possible. Replace disc if
necessary.
2. Input shaft splines rough,
damaged, or corroded.2. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
shaft splines if possible. Replace
input shaft if necessary.
Clutch disc rusted to flywheel and/or
pressure plate.1. Clutch not used for an extended
period of time (e.g. long term
vehicle storage).1. Sand rusted surfaces with 180
grit sanding paper. Replace clutch
cover and flywheel if necessary.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Clutch Master Cylinder
Nuts28 21 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V6
&V850 37 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V10 30 22.5 -
Pressure Plate Bolts -
Diesel30 22.5 -
Release Bearing Pivot 23 17 -
Flywheel Bolts 95 70 -
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand, to prevent strain on engine mounts.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(3) If pressure plate will be reused, mark the posi-
tion on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 1). Also
note location marks on the pressure next to the bolt
holes. The mark will be a L or a circle with an X in
it.
(4) Insert clutch alignment tool through clutch disc
and into pilot bushing, to hold disc in place while
removing bolts.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly, a few
threads at a time and in a diagonal pattern to pre-
vent warping the plate.
(6) Remove bolts completely and remove pressure
plate, disc and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with a NLGI
- 2 rated grease.
(3) Install clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub
with the raised side of hub is facing away from the
flywheel.
NOTE: Flywheel side is imprinted on the disc face.
(4) Install alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on the flywheel.
(5) Position pressure plate over disc and onto the
flywheel (Fig. 2).
(6) Align and hold pressure plate in position and
install bolts finger tight.
(7) Tighten bolts evenly and a few threads at a
time in a diagonal pattern.
CAUTION: Bolts must be tightened evenly and to
specified torque to avoid warping pressure plate
cover.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 5
CLUTCH (Continued)

To correct this example (Fig. 11) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.
NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 12).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case (Fig.
13).
(2) Remove starter from clutch housing.
(3) Remove structural dust cover bolts from clutch
housing.
CAUTION: Do not remove structural dust cover
from enigne block. If cover is removed clutch hous-
ing and cover must be aligned with the engine.(4) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Install structural dust cover if removed (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL
COVER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Align and install clutch housing on engine (Fig.
14). Tighten housing bolts across the top of the hous-
ing first and to the following torque values:
²ªAº bolts 1/4in. diameter - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 3/8in. diameter - 40 N´m (30 ft.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 7/16in. diameter - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªBº bolts for 5.7L 5.9L TD/8.0L engines - 47.5
N´m (40 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.7L engine - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD engine - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L engine - 74.5 N´m (55 ft.lb.)
(6) Install starter to clutch housing.
(7) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(2) Remove spring clip.
Fig. 11 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE CIRCLE (AT RIM OF BORE)
Fig. 12 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
Fig. 13 TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH HOUSING-NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
DRCLUTCH 6 - 9
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 17). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 19).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
Fig. 17 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 18 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 19 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

ACCESSORY DRIVE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................21
OPERATION...........................21
REMOVAL.............................21
INSTALLATION.........................22
BELT TENSIONER-5.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................22
OPERATION...........................22
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
BELT TENSIONER - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................23REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................24
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................27
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION
Correct drive belt tension is required to ensure
optimum performance of the belt driven engine acces-
sories. If specified tension is not maintained, belt
slippage may cause; engine overheating, lack of
power steering assist, loss of air conditioning capac-
ity, reduced generator output rate, and greatly
reduced belt life.
It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the
3.7L or 4.7L engine. These engines are equipped with
an automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 1). The tensioner
maintains correct belt tension at all times. Due to
use of this belt tensioner, do not attempt to use a belt
tension gauge on 3.7L or 4.7L engines.
OPERATION
The automatic belt tensioner maintains belt ten-
sion by using internal spring pressure, a pivoting
arm and pulley to press against the drive belt.
REMOVAL
On 3.7L and 4.7L engines, the tensioner is
equipped with an indexing tang on back of ten-
sioner and an indexing stop on tensioner hous-
ing. If a new belt is being installed, tang must
be within approximately 24 mm (.94 inches) of
indexing stop. Belt is considered new if it has
been used 15 minutes or less.
If the above specification cannot be met, check for:²The wrong belt being installed (incorrect length/
width)
²Worn bearings on an engine accessory (A/C com-
pressor, power steering pump, water pump, idler pul-
ley or generator)
²A pulley on an engine accessory being loose
²Misalignment of an engine accessory
²Belt incorrectly routed.
NOTE: A used belt should be replaced if tensioner
indexing arrow has moved to the minimum tension
indicator. Tensioner travel stops at this point.
Fig. 1 AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 21