1998 DODGE RAM 1500 clutch

(3) Using Special Tool 8512±A, press damper onto
crankshaft.
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
176 N´m (129 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-
teners to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(7) Install radiator upper hose.
(8) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(9) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
CAUTION: On manual transmission vehicles, the
7/16 inch engine block to clutch housing bolts must
be loosened before removal of the structural dust
cover. Clutch housing distortion will occur if this
procedure is not followed.
(2) Remove the bolts retaining structural cover.
(3) Remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-
gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bellhousing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Torque the (4)structural dust cover bolts that
go into the transmission to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(5) Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that
go into the engine block to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(6) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 19) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 19) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(7) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(8) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The 7/16 inch engine block to clutch
housing bolts must be loosened before removal/in-
stallation of the structural dust cover. Clutch hous-
ing distortion will occur if this procedure is not
followed.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover, and engine
noise.
(2) Install all bolts retaining the cover-to-engine.
DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time (Fig. 20).
(3) Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT
tighten at this time.
Fig. 19 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9 - 216 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against the corner formed by the engine and the
transmission clutch housing during tightening
sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to
the cover and engine noise.
(4) Torque the (2)structural dust cover bolts that
go into the clutch housing to 6-11 N´m (50-100
in.lbs.).
(5) Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that
go into the engine block to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(6) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the rear face of block on the passenger side of
block to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the front face of block on the drivers side to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).(8) Torque the remaining (2) structural cover bolts
that go into theblockin an ªXº pattern to 54 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(9) Torque the structural cover bolts that go into
theclutch housingto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(10) Torque the 7/16 inch engine block to clutch
housing bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove engine mount through bolts.
(4) Raise engine using engine support fixture spe-
cial tool # 8534.
(5) Remove engine mount to insulator bolts (Fig.
21), (Fig. 22).
(6) Remove insulator from engine.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the skid plate.
(4) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the engine oil filter.Fig. 20 Structural Cover - Manual Transmission
1 - STRUCTURAL COVER
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - BOLT
5 - BOLT
6 - BOLT
7 - BOLT
Fig. 21 RH INSULATOR
1 - BOLT
2 - INSULATOR
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 217
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
ple viscosities such as 5W-30 in the 5.7L engines.
These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade
which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity
range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your
particular temperature range and variation.
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the label
of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil
cans (Fig. 28).
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the left
hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about ten
Fig. 28 API SYMBOL
9 - 222 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Install manifold gasket and manifold.
(2) Install manifold bolts and tighten to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install heat shield and tighten nuts to 15 N´m
(11 ft. lbs.).
(4) Lower engine.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
lowering the engine.
(5) Remove engine support fixture from engine.
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Tighten right and left side engine mount
through bolts.
(8) Install exhaust flange to pipe bolts.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
TIMING/CHAIN COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(7) Remove fan shroud.
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect A/C lines or
discharge freon.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
(9) Remove the generator.
(10) Remove upper radiator hose.
(11) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(12) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
(13) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner and
both idler pulleys.
(14) Remove crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).NOTE: Do not remove the hoses from the power
steering pump.
(15) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
(16) Remove the dipstick support bolt.
(17) Drain the engine oil.
(18) Remove the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove water pump for
timing cover removal.
(19) Remove timing cover bolts and remove cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface.
NOTE: Always install a new gasket on timing cover.
(2) Install cover and new gasket. Tighten fasteners
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The large lifting stud is torqued to 55 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install the A/C compressor.
(5) Install the generator.
(6) Install power steering pump.
(7) Install the dipstick support bolt.
(8) Install the thermostat housing.
(9) Install crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
and both idler pulleys.
(11) Install radiator lower hose.
(12) Install both heater hoses.
(13) Install radiator fan shroud.
(14) Install the fan and fan drive assembly
(15) Install the accessory drive belt.
(16) Install the coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(17) Install the upper radiator hose.
(18) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(19) Fill cooling system.
(20) Refill engine oil.
(21) Connect the battery negative cable.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 227
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

(6) Apply a bead of MopartSilicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
(7) Install the cover to the gear housing, aligning
the seal pilot with the nose of the crankshaft (Fig.
70).
(8) Install the cover bolts and tighten to 24 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.) torque. Remove pilot tool.
(9) Install dust shield over nose of crankshaft.
(10) Install the crankshaft damper and speed indi-
cator ring. Torque the bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
Then rotate an additional 60É. Use the engine bar-
ring tool to keep the engine from rotating during
tightening operation.
(11) Install the fan support/hub assembly and
torque bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install power steering pump.
(13) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 Nm (32 ft.lbs.).
(14) Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Connect battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 71).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-
shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in
the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Remove the seal pilot.
(5) Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
(6) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 72).
Fig. 70 Installing Front Cover with Seal Pilot
1 - SEAL PILOT
Fig. 71 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
9 - 276 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5)
Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
73).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 73).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.
(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 74), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
Fig. 72 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 277
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500..........1
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500..........43
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV5600..........88
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE........130
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE/545RFE.311
TRANSFER CASE - NV241 GENII...........415TRANSFER CASE - NV271................447
TRANSFER CASE - NV243................482
TRANSFER CASE - NV244 GENII...........512
TRANSFER CASE - NV273................542
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................3
REMOVAL.............................3
DISASSEMBLY..........................4CLEANING............................15
INSPECTION..........................16
ASSEMBLY............................17
INSTALLATION.........................39
SPECIFICATIONS.......................40
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................40
MANUAL TRANSMISSION -
NV3500
DESCRIPTION
The transmission is a medium-duty 5-speed, con-
stant mesh fully synchronized manual transmission
with fifth gear overdrive range. The transmission is
available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
The transmission gear case consists of two aluminum
housings (Fig. 1). The clutch housing is an integral
part of the transmission front housing.
A combination of roller and ball bearings are used
to support the transmission shafts in the two hous-
ings. The transmission gears all rotate on caged type
needle bearings. A roller bearing is used between the
input and output shaft.
The transmission has a single shaft shift mecha-
nism with three shift forks all mounted on the shaft.
The shaft is supported in the front and rear housings
by bushings and one linear ball bearing. Internal
shift components consist of the forks, shaft, shift
lever socket and detent components
OPERATION
The manual transmission receives power through the
clutch assembly from the engine. The clutch disc issplined to the transmission input shaft and is turned at
engine speed at all times that the clutch is engaged.
The input shaft is connected to the transmission coun-
tershaft through the mesh of fourth speed gear on the
input shaft and the fourth countershaft gear. At this
point, all the transmission gears are spinning.
The driver selects a particular gear by moving the
shift lever to the desired gear position. This movement
moves the internal transmission shift components to
begin the shift sequence. As the shift lever moves the
selected shift rail, the shift fork attached to that rail
begins to move. The fork is positioned in a groove in the
outer circumference of the synchronizer sleeve. As the
shift fork moves the synchronizer sleeve, the synchro-
nizer begins to speed-up or slow down the selected gear
(depending on whether we are up-shifting or down-shift-
ing). The synchronizer does this by having the synchro-
nizer hub splined to the mainshaft and moving the
blocker ring into contact with the gear's friction cone. As
the blocker ring and friction cone come together, the
gear speed is brought up or down to the speed of the
synchronizer. As the two speeds match, the splines on
the inside of the synchronizer sleeve become aligned
with the teeth on the blocker ring and the friction cone
and eventually will slide over the teeth, locking the gear
to the mainshaft, or countershaft, through the synchro-
nizer.
DRTRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE 21 - 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. Leaks can occur at the
mating surfaces of the gear case, adaptor or exten-
sion housing, or from the front/rear seals. A sus-
pected leak could also be the result of an overfill
condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Shift component damage or damaged clutch pres-
sure plate or disc are additional probable causes of
increased shift effort. Worn/damaged pressure plate
or disc can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem
is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing
damage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(6) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(7) Drain lubricant if transmission will be disas-
sembled for service.
(8) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and companion
flange yoke/yokes for installation reference and
remove propeller shaft/shafts.
(9) Disconnect harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(10) Remove transfer case linkage if equipped.
(11) Remove transfer case mounting nuts and
remove transfer case if equipped.
(12) Remove slave cylinder mounting nut and
remove cylinder (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)