1998 DODGE RAM 1500 transmission removal

KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LEFT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket (Fig. 21).
(3) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
REMOVAL - RIGHT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the exhaust system at the mani-
folds.
(3) Disconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Support the transmission.
(5) Remove the transmission cross member.
(6) Lower the exhaust system down in order to
gain access to the removal of the upper bolt.(7) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
(8) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket.
(9) Remove the suspension arm from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LEFT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION - RIGHT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts, then finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Reconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Reconnect the exhaust at the manifolds.
(5) Install the transmission crossmember.
(6) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(7) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 21 Link/Coil Suspension
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SHOCK ABSORBER
3 - COIL SPRING
4 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
5 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
6 - TRACK BAR
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 37

REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Mark pinion flange or yoke and propeller shaft
flange or yoke (Fig. 12) for installation reference.
(3) Mark the outline of the center bearing (Fig. 13)
on the crossmember for installation reference, if
equipped.
(4) Remove center bearing mounting nuts, if
equipped.
(5) Remove pinion flange or yoke clamp bolts.
(6) Slide propeller shaft off transmission or trans-
fer case and remove shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide slip yoke onto the transmission/transfer
case output shaft.
(2) Align and install center bearing on crossmem-
ber, if equipped and tighten nuts to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Align reference marks on propeller shaft and
pinion flange or pinon yoke.(4) Installnewbolts and tighten to:
²(Fig. 14) Companion flange bolts 15 N´m (85 ft.
lbs.)
²(Fig. 15) Yoke clamp bolts 29 N´m (22 ft. lbs.)
NOTE: Companion flange bolts incorporate a Loc-
titeTpatch, new bolts should be used. If bolts are
not available, clean bolts and apply LoctiteT242 to
the threads.
Fig. 12 COMPANION FLANGE
1 - PROPELLER SHAFT
2 - COMPANION FLANGE
3 - REFERENCE MARK
4 - SHAFT FLANGE YOKE
Fig. 13 CENTER BEARING
1 - CENTER BEARING
2 - DUST BOOT
3 - MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 14 REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
1 - COMPANION FLANGE
2 - PROPELLER SHAFT
3 - 8 PROPELLER SHAFTDR

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................21CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to heed cau-
tion may result in damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking
grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A
torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer
joint which has allowed the grease to be lost will
damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or
a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment
may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(4) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(5) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(6) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(7) Disengage inner C/V joint from axle shaft with
two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle hous-
ing.
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - 20 HALF SHAFTDR

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in neutral.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove brake caliper, adapter and rotor (Fig.
19).(5) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant.
(6) Rotate differential case so pinion mate shaft
lock screw is accessible. Remove lock screw and pin-
ion mate shaft from differential case (Fig. 20).
FIXTURE 8136
TRAC-LOK TOOLS 8139
ARBOR DISCS 8541
PINION BLOCK 8542
Fig. 19 REAR ROTOR
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 20 PINION MATE SHAFT LOCK SCREW
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
DRREAR AXLE - 9 1/4 3 - 93
REAR AXLE - 9 1/4 (Continued)

²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the brake light switch and discard
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the adjustable pedal cables from the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(6) Unclip the cable fasteners to the support.
(7) Remove the one mounting bolt for the adjust-
able pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
(2) Install the one mounting bolt for the adjustable
pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(3) Clip the cable fasteners to the support.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector.
(5) Reconnect the adjustable pedal cables to the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(6) Install the new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(7) Install the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(9) Check for proper operation of the pedals.
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - CABLES
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 4 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

(3) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(4) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 66).
(5) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 41).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Install the prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the reservoir cap and siphon fluid into
a drain container (Fig. 42).
(3) Remove the electrical connector from the fluid
level switch in the reservoir (Fig. 42).
(4) Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (Fig. 42).
Fig. 41 FLUID LEVEL TYPICAL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH
WARNING.............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
SPECIFICATIONS........................5
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL.............................5
INSTALLATION..........................5
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................7
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION.........................10
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................10REMOVAL.............................11
DISASSEMBLY.........................11
ASSEMBLY............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
LINKAGE
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................13
CLUTCH
WARNING
WARNING: Exercise care when servicing clutch
components. Factory installed clutch discs do not
contain asbestos fibers. Dust and dirt on clutch
parts may contain asbestos fibers from aftermarket
components. Breathing excessive concentrations of
these fibers can cause serious bodily harm. Wear a
respirator during service and never clean clutch
components with compressed air or with a dry
brush. Either clean the components with water
dampened rags or use a vacuum cleaner specifi-
cally designed to remove asbestos fibers and dust.
Do not create dust by sanding a clutch discs.
Replace the disc if the friction material is damaged.
Dispose of all dust and dirt containing asbestos
fibers in sealed bags or containers. This will mini-
mize exposure to yourself and to others. Follow all
recommended safety practices prescribed by the
occupational safety and health administration
(OSHA) and the environmental safety agency (EPA),
for the handling and disposal of products contain-
ing asbestos. Failure to follow these instructions
may result in personal injury or death
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Road test and inspect components to determine a
clutch problem. Road test the vehicle at normalspeeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If clutch chatters,
grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove and
inspect clutch components. If problem is noise or
hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed to the
transmission and driveline component.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Contamination is a frequent cause of clutch mal-
functions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch disc
and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter, slip
and grab. Oil contamination indicates a leak at
either the rear main seal or transmission input shaft.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slip-
page between the pressure plate, disc and flywheel
can bake the oil residue onto the components. The
glaze-like residue ranges in color from amber to
black.
Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering
the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks.
Driving through deep water puddles can force water/
road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems can be
caused by worn or damage clutch components.
Release problems can cause hard shifting and
noise. Look for leaks at clutch cylinders, connecting
line and loose slave cylinder bolts. Also worn/loose
release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc, pressure plate or
release bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 1

Engagement problems can cause slip, chatter/shud-
der and noisy operation. The causes may be clutch
disc contamination, wear, distortion or flywheel dam-
age.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
6 - 2 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH (Continued)