PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leakthat does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for
On-Board Diagnostics and DTC
information. Replace thermostat if
necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor
connector. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL) Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER/ENGINE
TEMPERATURE GAUGE -
DESCRIPTION). Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank or degas
bottle and the radiator. Inspect
system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary. Refer to the Coolant
section of the manual text for
WARNINGS and CAUTIONS
associated with removing the
radiator cap.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
procedures.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR THE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST OR LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine is being idled with very high
ambient (outside) temperatures and
the air conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating
and repair. Refer to Possible
Causes (2-18).
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
DRCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER -
SCHEMATIC - ELECTRICAL).
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap.
Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator (5.9L) or degas
bottle (3.7L, 4.7L).
7. Coolant level low in radiator but
not in coolant reserve/overflow
tank. This means the radiator is not
drawing coolant from the coolant
reserve/overflow tank as the engine
cools (5.9L).7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Refer to
Radiator Cap in this Group. Replace
cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from
the radiator to the coolant tank. It
should fit tight at both ends without
any kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow
tank and tanks hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant concentration 8. Check coolant. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/
FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
9. Coolant not flowing through
system9. Check for coolant flow at radiator
filler neck with some coolant
removed, engine warm and
thermostat open. Coolant should be
observed flowing through radiator. If
flow is not observed, determine area
of obstruction and repair as
necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Remove insects and debris.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7 - 12 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (fluctuates, cycles or is
erratic)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and
repair if necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge should return
to normal range after vehicle is
driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range after a few
minutes of engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open
late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head
gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam emitting
from the exhaust system. Repair as
necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP -
REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to build
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as
necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seals. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as
necessary.
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(1) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container.
(2)DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
when draining the coolant from the reservoir/over-
flow tank. Open radiator draincock and when the
tank is empty, remove the radiator cap and continue
draining the cooling system.
(3) If draining the entire engine, remove the cylin-
der block drain plugs. Refer to (Fig. 6) or (Fig. 7).STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM - ALL GAS ENGINES
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
Clean cooling system prior to refilling. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(1) Install cylinder block drain plugs. Coat the
threads with MopartThread Sealant with Teflon.
(2) Close radiator petcock.
(3) Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of
water and antifreeze.
(4) Fill coolant reserve/overflow tank to MAX mark
on bottle.
(5) Start and operate engine until thermostat
opens (upper radiator hose warm to touch).
(6) If necessary, add a 50/50 water and antifreeze
mixture to the coolant reserve/overflow tank. This is
done to maintain coolant level between the MAX and
MIN marks. The level in the reserve/overflow tank
may drop below the MIN mark after three or four
warm-up and cool-down cycles.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN PLUG WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Start the engine and place the heater control
temperature selector in the Full-On position.
(2) Turn the ignition off.
(3) Do not remove radiator cap when draining cool-
ant from reserve/overflow tank. Open radiator drain
plug and when tank is empty, remove radiator cap. If
the coolant reserve/overflow tank does not drain,
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING). The coolant need not be removed from tank
unless the system is being refilled with fresh mix-
ture.
(4) Remove radiator pressure cap.
Fig. 6 Drain PlugsÐGas Powered EnginesÐTypical
1 - BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 7 Drain Plug - 3.7L/4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 18 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)
RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter and the correct
width.
(3) Remove the hose clamps and hoses from radia-
tor.
(4) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from the radiator filler neck.
(5) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank from
the fan shroud (pull straight up). The tank slips into
slots on the fan shroud.
(6) Unclip the power steering hoses from the fan
shroud.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connectors at the
windshield washer reservoir tank and remove the
tank.
(8) Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull
up and out of the radiator tank clips (Fig. 36). Posi-
tion shroud rearward over the fan blades towards
engine.
(9) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from
the transmission cooler, then plug the transmission
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the
power steering cooler, then plug the power steering
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud - Gas Engine
1 - RADIATOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - SLIDE MOUNT
7 - 54 ENGINEDR
loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS, ºDO NOT OPEN
HOTº, ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
²Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
²Refill the system with new antifreeze.
²Conducting service procedures.
²Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 41).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 40 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
7 - 58 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)
The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 42) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the
timing chain front cover. The water pump is also
mounted directly to the timing chain cover and is
equipped with a non serviceable integral pulley (Fig.
43).
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
The 3.7L and 4.7L engine uses an internal water/
coolant bypass system. The design uses galleries in
the timing chain cover to circulate coolant during
Fig. 41 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 42 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)