1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Intake manifold gasket

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer to
the Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes.
The DTC can also be accessed through the
DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate Power-
train Diagnostic Procedures information for diagnos-
tic information and operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
Factory installed thermostat housings on 5.9L
engine is installed on a gasket with an anti-stick
coating. This will aid in gasket removal and clean-up.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system until the coolant level
is below the thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Air Conditioned vehicles: Remove the support
bracket (generator mounting bracket-to-intake mani-
fold) located near the rear of the generator (Fig. 17).
NOTE: On air conditioning equipped vehicles, the
generator must be partially removed.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove the generator mounting bolts. Do not
remove any of the wiring at the generator. If
equipped with 4WD, unplug the 4WD indicator lamp
wiring harness (located near rear of generator).
(6) Remove the generator. Position the generator
to gain access for the thermostat gasket removal.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Fig. 16 Thermostat - 5.7L/5.9L Gas Powered
Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
Fig. 17 Generator Support Bracket ± 5.9L Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY BUSHING
2 - A/C AND/OR GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - SCREW AND WASHER
7 - 42 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of the constant tension clamps (Fig. 19). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with a matching number, letter
and width.
(7) Remove the radiator upper hose clamp and
upper hose at the thermostat housing.
(8) Position the wiring harness (behind thermostat
housing) to gain access to the thermostat housing.(9) Remove the thermostat housing mounting
bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
(Fig. 20). Discard old gasket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the mating areas of the intake manifold
and thermostat housing.
(2) Install the thermostat (spring side down) into
the recessed machined groove on the intake manifold
(Fig. 20).
(3) Install the gasket on the intake manifold and
over the thermostat (Fig. 20).
(4) Position the thermostat housing to the intake
manifold.Note:The word FRONT stamped on hous-
ing (Fig. 21). For adequate clearance, thismustbe
placed towards the front of the vehicle. The housing
is slightly angled forward after the installation to the
intake manifold.
(5) Install the housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the radiator upper hose to the thermo-
stat housing.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 22) for the
correct 5.9L engine belt routing. The correct belt
with correct length must be used.
Fig. 18 Automatic Belt Tensioner ± 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - TENSIONER
3 - FAN BLADE
Fig. 19 SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
Fig. 20 Thermostat ± 5.9L Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
DRENGINE 7 - 43
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

The DTC can also be accessed through the DRB
scan tool. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diag-
nostic Procedures information for diagnostic informa-
tion and operation of the DRB scan tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
A rubber lip-type seal with a metal shoulder is
pressed into the intake manifold beneath the thermo-
stat (Fig. 28).
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain cooling system until coolant level is
below thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the two support rod mounting bolts
and remove support rod (intake manifold-to-genera-
tor mount) (Fig. 29).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094).CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(4) Remove upper radiator hose clamp. Remove
upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
(5) Disconnect the wiring connectors at both of the
sensors located on thermostat housing.
(6) Remove six thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing and thermostat.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean mating areas of intake manifold and
thermostat housing.
(2) Check the condition (for tears or cracks) of the
rubber thermostat seal located in the intake manifold
(Fig. 28). The thermostat should fit snugly into the
rubber seal.
(3) If seal replacement is necessary, coat the outer
(metal) portion of the seal with MopartGasket
Maker. Install the seal into the manifold using Spe-
cial Seal Tool number C-3995-A with handle tool
number C-4171.
(4) Install thermostat into recessed machined
groove on intake manifold (Fig. 28).
(5) Install thermostat housing (Fig. 30).
(6) Install housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten bolts to 25 N´m (220 in. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Housing bolts should be tightened
evenly to prevent damage to housing and to pre-
vent leaks.
(7) Connect the wiring to both sensors.
(8) Install the upper radiator hose and hose clamp
to thermostat housing.
Fig. 28 Thermostat Seal - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - METAL SEAL SHOULDER
2 - RUBBER LIP SEAL
3 - THERMOSTAT OPENING
Fig. 29 Support Rod - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - BOLTS
2 - SUPPORT ROD
DRENGINE 7 - 49
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 8.0L (Continued)

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 42) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the
timing chain front cover. The water pump is also
mounted directly to the timing chain cover and is
equipped with a non serviceable integral pulley (Fig.
43).
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
The 3.7L and 4.7L engine uses an internal water/
coolant bypass system. The design uses galleries in
the timing chain cover to circulate coolant during
Fig. 41 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 42 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the master cylinder and booster assem-
bly(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assem-
bly(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN
- REMOVAL).
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(12) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
5).
(13) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 6). Rotate the crank-
shaft one turn if necessary.
(14) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(15) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 5 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)

(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud(Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft
one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(14) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(15) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Hold-
ing Fixture.NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(16) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
(17) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove the cylinder head access plug.
(19) Remove the right side secondary chain
guide(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed,
torque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(20) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel
can result in a vehicle no start condition.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with twelve bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder
head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 33
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier (Fig. 73). The sealing area of the
gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be
reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or
ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Install engine support fixture special tool #
8534.Do not raise engine at this time.
(3) Loosen both left and right side engine mount
through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
(4) Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
(5) Drain engine oil.
(6) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide
clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper
clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake
manifold.
(7) Raise engine using special tool 8534 to provide
clearance to remove oil pan.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gas-
ket is integral to engine windage tray and does not
come out with oil pan.
(8) Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
(9) Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
(10) Inspect the integral windage tray (Fig. 73)
and gasket and replace as needed.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the
bedplate and oil pan.
(2) Inspect integrated oil pan gasket, and replace
as necessary.
(3) Position the integrated oil pan gasket/windage
tray assembly.
(4) Install the oil pickup tube
(5) Install the mounting bolt and nuts. Tighten
nuts to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(6) If removed, install stud at position No. 9. (Fig.
74).
(7) Position the oil pan and install the mounting
bolts and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts and nut to
15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 74).
(8) Lower the engine into mounts using special
tool 8534.
(9) Install both the left and right side engine
mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N´m (50
ft. lbs.).
(10) Remove special tool 8534.
(11) Install structural dust cover, if equipped.
Fig. 73 Oil Pan And Gasket
1 - OIL PAN
2 - WINDAGE TRAY AND INTEGRATED OIL PAN GASKET
9 - 66 ENGINE - 3.7LDR