1998 DODGE DURANGO check engine light

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Do
this before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 66). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump.
(11) Install the timing chain cover.
(12) Install the vibration damper.
(13) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps. Tighten the
nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(14) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 67).Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(15) Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
(16) Immediately install the oil pan.
(17) If the transmission was removed, install the
transmission.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from rear main bearing
cap.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install oil pump. During installation slowly
rotate pump body to ensure driveshaft-to-pump rotor
shaft engagement.
(2) Hold the oil pump base flush against mating
surface on No.5 main bearing cap. Finger tighten
pump attaching bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the oil pan.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALÐFRONT
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover provided the cover is not mis-
aligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper.
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment tool 6635, should fit with minimum
Fig. 66 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 ± .25 DROP OF LOCTITE 515 ON BOTH SIDES OF REAR
MAIN CAP
Fig. 67 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap to Block Joint
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 ± SEALANT APPLIED
3 ± CYLINDER BLOCK
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 117
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump.
(11) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
(13) Immediately install the oil pan.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove
and discard the old lower oil seal.
(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burr at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the 2 main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To assure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing towards the
rear of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
Fig. 71 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 ± LOCTITE 518 (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 ± CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
Fig. 72 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap to Block Joint
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 ± SEALANT APPLIED
3 ± CYLINDER BLOCK
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 119
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CYLINDER BLOCK
DISASSEMBLE
With Engine removed from vehicle:
(1) Remove the cylinder heads. refer to Cylinder
Head in this section for correct procedure.
(2) Remove the exhaust manifolds. Refer to
Exhaust Manifolds in this section.
(3) Remove the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan in this
section.
(4) Remove the piston and connecting rod assem-
blies. Refer to Piston and Connecting Rod in this sec-
tion.
(5) Remove the crankshaft. Refer to Crankshaft in
this section.
(6) Remove the core plugs.
ASSEMBLE
(1) Install the core plugs.
(2) Install the crankshaft.
(3) Install the piston and connecting rods.
(4) Install the oil pan.
(5) Install the cylinder heads.
(6) Install the exhaust manifolds.
(7) Install the intake manifold.
(8) Install the engine into the vehicle.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
CLEANING
Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface.
Clean head rail, if necessary.
INSPECTION
Inspect cover for distortion and straighten, if nec-
essary.
Check the gasket for use in head cover installation.
If damaged, use a new gasket.
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is
any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness
exceeds 0.00075 mm/mm (0.00075 inch/inch) times
the span length in inches in any direction, either
replace head or lightly machine the head surface.
FOR EXAMPLE:A 305 mm (12 inch) span is
0.102 mm (0.004 inch) out-of-flat. The allowable out-
of-flat is 305 X 0.00075 (12 X 0.00075) equals 0.23
mm (0.009 inch). This amount of out-of-flat is accept-
able.
The cylinder head surface finish should be
1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
INSPECTION
Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal for
excessive wear, taper and scoring.
Check the cylinder block bore for out-of-round,
taper, scoring and scuffing.
Check the pistons for taper and elliptical shape
before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (Fig. 83).
OIL PAN
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
Trim or remove excess sealant film in the rear
main cap oil pan gasket groove.DO NOT remove
the sealant inside the rear main cap slots.
If present, trim excess sealant from inside the
engine.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump
1 ± INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 ± BODY
3 ± DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 ± COTTER PIN
5 ± RETAINER CAP
6 ± SPRING
7 ± RELIEF VALVE
8 ± LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 ± BOLT
10 ± COVER
11 ± OUTER ROTOR
9 - 124 5.2L ENGINEDN
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by theplunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 11).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
9 - 148 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 17).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 16 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 17 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 152 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(3) Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to HEAT-
ING and AIR CONDITIONING.
(4) Remove the generator. Refer to CHARGING
SYSTEM.
(5) Remove the accessory drive bracket.
(6) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet
hose.
(7) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(8) Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel
rail. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(9) Disconnect the accelerator linkage and, if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(10) Remove the distributor cap and wires.
(11) Disconnect the coil wires.
(12) Disconnect the coolant temperature sending
unit wire.
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
(14) Remove the closed crankcase ventilation and
evaporation control systems.
(15) Remove intake manifold bolts.
(16) Lift the intake manifold and throttle body out
of the engine compartment as an assembly.
(17) Remove and discard the flange side gaskets
and the front and rear cross-over gaskets.
(18) Remove the throttle body bolts and lift the
throttle body off the intake manifold (Fig. 40). Dis-
card the throttle body gasket.
INSTALLATION
(1) If the plenum pan was removed, position pan
gasket and pan.
(2) Install plenum pan retaining bolts. (Fig. 41).
(3) Tighten plenum pan mounting bolts as follows:
²Step 1. Tighten bolts to 5.4 N´m (24 in. lbs.)
²Step 2. Tighten bolts to 9.5 N´m (84 in. lbs.)
²Step 3. Check all bolts are at 9.5 N´m (84 in.
lbs.)
(4) Using a new gasket, install the throttle body
onto the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(200 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, to the four corner joints.
The sealant bead height should be slightly higher
than the cross-over gaskets, approximately 5 mm (0.2
in). An excessive amount of sealant is not required to
ensure a leak proof seal, and an excessive amount of
sealant may reduce the effectiveness of the flange
gasket.
(6) Install the front and rear cross-over gaskets
onto the engine (Fig. 42).
(7) Install the flange gaskets. Ensure that the ver-
tical port alignment tab is resting on the deck face of
the block. Also the horizontal alignment tabs must be
in position with the mating cylinder head gasket tabs
(Fig. 43). The words MANIFOLD SIDE should be vis-
ible on the center of each flange gasket.
(8) Carefully lower intake manifold into position
on the cylinder block and cylinder heads. long studs
at the front and rear of the manifold will help to
align the intake manifold. After intake manifold is in
Fig. 40 Throttle Body Assembly
1 ± FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY
2 ± FUEL RAIL MOUNTING BOLTS
3 ± FUEL RAIL CONNECTING HOSES
Fig. 41 Plenum Pan Bolt Tightening Sequence
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 163
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps one at a time.
(4) Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool
C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 67).
(5) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 67).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Install the bearing caps. Clean and oil the bolts.
Tighten the capbolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the oil pump.
(5) Install the oil pan.
(6) Start engine check for leaks.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Remove engine oil dipstick.(4) Disconnect distributor cap and position away
from cowl.
(5) Remove the fan shroud. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(6) Disconnect throttle valve cable from throttle
body and mounting bracket (Fig. 67A).
(7) Raise vehicle.
(8) Drain engine oil.
(9) Remove exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds.
(10) Remove engine mount insulator through bolts.
(11) Raise engine by way of oil pan using a block of
wood between the jack and oil pan.
(12) When engine is high enough, place mount
through bolts in the engine mount attaching points on
the frame brackets.
(13) Lower engine so bottom of engine mounts rest
on the replacement bolts placed in the engine mount
frame brackets.
(14) Remove transmission to engine braces.
(15) Remove starter. Refer to STARTING SYS-
TEMS.
(16) Remove transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(17) Disconnect rear support cushion from cross-
member.
(18) Raise rear of transmission away from cross-
member.
(19) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove front driving axle. Refer to DIFFEREN-
TIAL and DRIVELINE.
(6) Remove both engine mount support brackets.
(7) Remove transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(8) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.
Fig. 67 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 ± BEARING
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 ± BEARING
Fig. 67A Throttle Valve Cable Removal/Installation
1 ± TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE BRACKET
2 ± AIR INLET DUCT
3 ± TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
9 - 174 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999