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113-5
Cylinder Head Removal and Installation I
< Fuel line plugs
(Tool No.
BMW 13 5 281113 5 282)
4 Fuel line removal tool for quick-disconnect fittings
(Tool No.
BMW 16 1 050)
< Tensioning bracket (V-8)
(Tool No. BMW 11 7 380)
Compressed air fitting for testing VANOS operation
((Tool No.
BMW 11 3 450)
< Upper timing cover installation tool set, V-8
(Tool No. BMW 11 1 41 0)
Cylinder compression, checking
A compression gauge is needed to make a compression test.
For accurate test, the battery and starter must be capable of
cranking the engine at least
300 rpm, and the engine should
be at normal operating temperature.
NOTE-
Performing a compression test may cause a fault to set in the
ECM and may illuminate the Malfunction
Indicator Light
(MIL). The light can only be turned out using either
BMW
special service scan tools or an equivalent aftermarket scan
tool. Disconnecting the battery will not erase the fault memo-
ry or turn out the light. See OBD On-Board Diagnostics.
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I Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
4 Check that two locating dowels are correctly positioned in
block and are not damaged.
- Apply permanently elastic sealing compound Three Bond
1209 8 to joints where cylinder block joins timing case cover.
- Place new cylinder head gasket on cylinder block.
NOTE-
The word "OBEN" or 'TOP': printed on the gasket, should
face up. The cylinder head
gasket will fit correctly in only one
orientation.
- With camshafts locked in TDC oosition with BMW soecial
tools as described during cylinder head removal,
seicylinder
head in position, guiding primary chain through cylinder head
opening.
NOTE-
* The camshafts must be locl(ed in the TDC position at the
rear of the cylinder head with
BMW special tool I1 3 240
before installing the cylinder head.
Make sure the
cranksha% which had been rotated approx-
imately
30" opposite the direction of engine rotation, is still
in that position before lowering the cylinder head into posi-
tion.
- Lightly lubricate new cylinder head bolts. Loosely install bolts
and their washers, then thread them in until they are finger
tight.
NOTE-
. Torx-type cylinder head bolts should not be reused. They
are stretch-type bolts and must always be replaced when-
ever loosened.
Check that all washers for the cylinder head bolts are in
place before installing the bolts. Some of the washers may
be
stalced to the cylinder head.
CAUTIOI\C
Cylinder head bolts for a cast iron engine block are different
length and require different tightening torque than bolts for an
aluminum cylinder bloclc engines
(95 rnm versus 110 rnm
bolts).
- Install cylinder head-to-lower timing chain cover bolts finger
tight.
< Tighten cylinder head bolts in correct sequence to initial
torque value.
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11 3-40
I Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
Lubricate camshafts, camshaft carriers, bearing caps, hy-
draulic lifters, friction washers, splined shafts and spline hubs
with assembly lubricant before installation.
4 Check that two cylinder head aligning sleeves (arrows) are
correctly positioned in block and are not damaged.
- Apply elastic sealing compound Three Bond 1209 8 to cor-
ner joints on cylinder block to timing chain cover.
- Place new cylinder head gasket on cylinder block.
NOTE-
The word "OBEN" or "TOP printed on the gasket, should
face up. The cylinder headgaslet will fit correctly in only one
orientation.
- Set cylinder head in position, guiding primary chain through
cylinder head opening.
CAUJION-
Make sure the crankshaft, which had been rotated approxi-
mately 30" opposite the direction of engine rotation from
TDC, is still in thatposition before lowering the cylinder head
into position. All pistons must be out of TDC position to pre-
vent
valve/piston interference when the camshafts are in-
stalled.
- Lightly lubricate new cylinder head bolts and washers with
oil. Install bolts and washers finger tight. Install cylinder head
to lower timing chain cover bolts finger tight.
NOJE-
Cylinder head bolts should not be reused. They are
stretch-type bolts and must be replaced whenever loos-
ened.
* Aluminum cylinder blocls use different length cylinder
head bolts and torque values than cast iron blocks.
Check that all washers for
Nle head bolts are in place be-
fore installing the bolts. Some of the washers may be
staked to the cylinder head.
I 12 10 4 2 6 8 141 Tighten cylinder head bolts in correct sequence (1-14)
CA U TIOW-
The bolts should be tightened in three stages as listed below
The final stages require the use of a BMW special tool
11 2
110 or a suitable protractor to tighten the bolts to a specified
torque angle.
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Cylinder Head and Valvetrain
< Remove oil baffle cover from above intake camshaft(s)
- Rotate engine at crankshaft vibration damper center bolt in
normal direction of rotation (clockwise) until camshaft lobe of
lifter to be tested points away from the lifter, allowing valve to
be completely closed.
Use a plastic or wooden stick to press down on top of lifter
with approximately 3.5 Nm
(2.25 ft-ib) of force.
If the lifter collapses slightly as though spring loaded, air
may be trapped in the lifter.
NOTE-
Air trapped in hydraulic lifters may result from oil foaming (air
being drawn
in by the oil pump). This may be caused by a
faulty oil pump control valve O-ring; leaking oil pump pickup
gaslcet; or by oil starvation to pump.
Press down on top of lifter for
10 to 15 seconds uslng approx-
lmately 6 to 9 Nm (4.5 to 6.75 ft-lb) of force.
If anv clearance is created between the lifter and the
cam-
shafi lobe, the check valve in the lifter is not closing. Re-
place lifter.
- To replace a hydraulic lifter, remove appropriate camshaft.
Refer to camshaft removal procedures given in Camshaft
and lifter removal and installation.
Once camshaft is removed, withdraw faulty
lifter(s) and re-
place with new
lifter(s). Inspect lifter bores for wear and scor-
ing at arrows.
- Reinstall camshafts. See Camshaft and lifter removal and
installation.
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. .- -
L
- --
- - -. - -- Lubrication ~~stern
- Remove pressure gauge and reinstall pressure switch with
new sealing washer.
Tightening torque
Oil pressure switch to oil filter housing 27 Nm (20 ft-lb)
If testing shows low oil pressure, one or more of the following
conditions may be indicated:
Worn or faulty oil pump or faulty pump pressure relief valve
Worn or damaged engine bearings
Severe engine wear
Any of these conditions indicate the need for major repairs.
Oil pressure warning system, testing
4 When the ignition is turned on, the oil pressure warning light
comes on. When the engine is started and the oil pressure
rises slightly, the oil pressure switch (arrow) contact opens
and the warning light goes out. Make sure the oil level is cor-
rect before making tests.
- Turn ignition switch on.
- Warning light on instrument panel must light up
- Remove connector from oil pressure switch.
Warning light on instrument panel must go out.
NOTE-
If the light does not go out, the wiring to the switch is most
likely grounded somewhere between the switch terminaland
the warning light See
ELE Electrical Wiring Diagrams for
electrical schematics.
- If warning light does not light when ignition is on, remove con-
nector from oil pressure switch and use a jumper wire to
ground connector terminal to a clean metal surface. The oil
pressure warning light should come on.
NOTE-
If there are two wires to the oil pressure switch, ground the
brown/green wire that carries the signal to the warning light.
- If the warning light comes on, check the switch as described
in the next step. If the warning light does not come on, the
wiring to the instrument cluster or to the light itself is faulty.
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Lubrication System
To test switch, connect an ohmmeter between terminal in
switch body (arrow) and ground. With engine off, there
should be continuity. With engine running, oil pressure
should open switch and there should be no continuity. Re-
place a faulty switch.
CAUTION-
Keep in mind that low oil pressure may be preventing the
switch from turning the light out
If the light remains on while
the engine is running, check the oil pressure as described
earlier. Do not drive the car until the problem is corrected. The
engine may be severely damaged.
Crankshaft rear main seal replacement requires removal of
the transmission and flywheel.
Crankshaft rear main seal, replacing
(&cylinder)
- Remove transmission. See 230 Manual Transmission or
240 Automatic Transmission.
- Manual transmission vehicles: Remove clutch pressure plate
and disc. See
210 Clutch.
- Remove flywheel. See 210 Clutch or 240 Automatic Trans-
mission.
- Drain engine oil.
4 Remove seal carrier bolts from oil pan (arrows). Loosen all
oil pan bolts.
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-- . - .. . - Lubrication system]
- Remainder of installation is reverse of removal.
Replace self-locking nuts when reinstalling front suspen-
sion components.
Use new oil dipstick tube sealing O-ring.
After adding engine oil, start and run engine. Raise engine
speed to 2,500 rpm until oil pressure warning light goes out
(about 5 seconds).
NOTE-
BMW does not specify a front end alignment following this
procedure.
Tightening torques Front subfrarne to body rail
(M12, use new bolts)
8.8 grade
10.9 grade
12.9 grade 77 Nrn
(57 ft-lb)
105 Nrn (77 ft-lb)
110 Nrn (81 ft-lb)
Stabilizer bar link to stabilizer bar
65 Nrn (48 ft-lb)
Steering shaft universal joint clamping bolt
(use new bolt)
19 Nrn (14 it-lb)
Lower oil pan, removing and installing (V-8)
- The V-8 engine is equipped with a 2-piece oil pan. The fas-
teners in
V-8 engine oil pump assembly, including the
sprocket retaining nut, are known to loosen and fall off into
the oil pan. Be sure to install these fasteners with Loctite
O
or equivalent thread locking product and torque to specifica-
tions.
CAUTION-
It is recommended that the oil pump retaining bolts and oil
pump drive sprocket retaining nut tightening torque be
checkedany time the
oilpan is removed.
- Raise car and place securely on jack stands.
WARNING-
Make sure the car is stable and well supported at all times.
Use a professional automotive lift
orjack stands designed for
- Remove splash shield from under engine.
- Drain engine oil
- On cars with automatic transmission, remove ATF cooler line
brackets from oil pan.
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Lubrication System
- Lower front suspension and remove oil pan, as described
earlier, to gain access to oil pump.
Remove oil pump
sprocket mounting nut (left-hand thread)
(arrow). Lift sprocket off together with drive chain.
Engines produced to 9/98: Remove oil pump with pick-up
tube. Pick-up tube is bolted to side of oil pump.
Engines produced from 9/98 to 01/00: Remove pick-up
tube, scraper tray and oil pump as a unit.
Engines produced from 01/00: Remove oil pump pick-up
tube bolts and remove pick-up tube before removing pump.
Remove mounting bolts from oil pump. Withdraw pump.
NOTE-
Record location of any spacers between pump and engine
bloclc Note positions of locating dowels.
- Remove cover from oil pump and check for wear or scoring.
Spin oil pump shaft and
check that gears turn smoothly. Re-
place pump if gears spin with difficulty
orany wear is present.
- Inspect oil pressure relief valve as described later.
- Installation is reverse of removal, noting the following:
Replace pick-up tube O-ring (if applicable).
- Align sprocket splines to oil pump shaft spl~nes before
tightening sprocket nut.
- After adding engine oil, start and run engine. Raise engine
speed to 2,500 rpm until oil pressure warning light goes out
(about 5 seconds).
Tightening torques Oil drain plug to oil pan 25
Nm (18 ft-lb)
Oil pan to engine
bloclc
M6 (8.8 grade)
M6 (10.9 grade)
M8 (8.8 grade)
10 Nm (89 in-lb)
12
Nrn (9 ft-lb)
22 Nm (16 ft-lb)
Oil pump sprocket to oil pump shait
(M10 x 1) (left hand thread)
25 Nm (1 8 it-lb)
Oil pump to crankcase (ME) 22 Nm (1 6 it-lb)
Oil pump pickup tube to cranltcase (M6) 10 Nm (89 in-lb)