1997 Oldsmobile Aurora steering

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the
road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a
lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
A
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet ice can be
even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all.
You can get wet ice when
it’s about freezing
(32 OF; 0 “C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid
driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Keep your traction control system on. It improves your
ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even
though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road
conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the Index.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would
on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock”
in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise
clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas
where the sun can’t reach: around clumps
of trees,
behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface
of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when
the surrounding roads are clear.
If you see a patch of
ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to
brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t
adequately secured. This can cause
a collision,
serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The
vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or
steel cables before it is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps,
canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp
edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use
T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use
J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and
suspension components. When
your vehicle
is being towed, have the ignition key
turned to
OFF. The steering wheel should be clamped in
a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device
designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s
steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in
NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels, unless you must.
If the vehicle must be towed on the
drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance
restrictions later in this section or your transaxle will be
damaged.
If these limitations must be exceeded, then the
drive wheels have
to be supported on a dolly.
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5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure
cap is tight.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer
to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or
Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is
to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but
you must use caution.
I ,A CAUTION: I
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transaxle or other parts
of the vehicle
can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re
stuck, spin the wheels
as little as possible. Don’t
spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle
as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transaxle back and
forth, you can destroy your transaxle.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels.
You should turn
your traction control system off. (See “Traction Control
System”
in the Index.) Then shift back and forth
between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the
wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your
Vehicle”
in the Index.
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Filling Your Tank The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of
your vehicle.
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns
violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling
your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking
materials away from gasoline.
The remote fuel door release can help keep your fuel
tank from being siphoned. Always be sure the fuel door
is closed and latched after refueling.
To open the fuel door
(on
the left of the vehicle), press
the button next to the
trunk
release button, to the right
of the steering column. The
ignition does not need to be
on. The remote fuel door
release will work
in all
transaxle positions.
6-5

Checking Things Under the Hood
I k!, CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools
away from any
underhood electric fan.
1
I
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start
a fire. These include liquids like gasoline,
oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and
other fluids, and plastic
or rubber. You or others
could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill
things that will burn onto
a hot engine.
The following sections tell you how
to check fluids,
lubricants and important parts underhood. Hood Release
To open the hood,
first pull
the
hood release handle
inside the vehicle, located
to
the left of the steering wheel
under the instrument panel.
6-8

4.0L Engine
When you open the hood, you’ll see: ~
A. Remote Positive
Battery Terminal
B. Windshield Washer
Fluid Reservoir C. Power Steering
Fluid Reservoir
D. Engine Oil
Fill Cap
E. Engine Oil Dipstick
F. Brake Fluid Reservoir
G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid
Dipstick (behind air cleaner)
H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank
I. Air Cleaner
6-10

Power Steering Fluid
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering
fluid unless you suspect there
is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
How To Check Power Steering Fluid
When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and
the top
of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and
wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and
completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and
look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the
FULL COLD mark. If
necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to
the mark.
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